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I have ordered and received an Overdrive RSM 4 tire truer. The instructions didn't come in English, so they are no good to me. My question is, what volts and amps should my power supply be set at to true tires? Thanks in advance for any answers.
 

Kevs Racing Bits
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I run mine at 4V for normal NSR tyres and 5V for the new long lasting difficult-to-true rubbers and keep amp draw below 2A, more like 1.5A to prevent melting and gumming up with the difficult rubbers.

...I drew up a reciprocator for it and the original RSM3 version is on Thingiverse, I wouldn't use it without now. The size is the same, the only difference is the height of the front edge where the sliding plate touches.
 

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I'll run at 6 volts to turn down a tire to the size I want it to be, then turn it as low as the truer and power supply want to run (for me that's 2 volts) and let it run until the amps stop dropping. That last little bit makes a big difference.
 

Kevs Racing Bits
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I'll run at 6 volts to turn down a tire to the size I want it to be, then turn it as low as the truer and power supply want to run (for me that's 2 volts) and let it run until the amps stop dropping. That last little bit makes a big difference.
Is that on a RSM truer? Not all of these types of truers have the same motor.
 

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I have ordered and received an Overdrive RSM 4 tire truer. The instructions didn't come in English, so they are no good to me. My question is, what volts and amps should my power supply be set at to true tires? Thanks in advance for any answers.
If you check on their web site there is a specification for the power supply...

The RSM4 requires a 6-12V power unit with min. 3 A.

under the Description listing (scroll down about halfway).

Peter
 

David Collins
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My Hudy has a sticker on the front that says use a maximum of 5 volts and 5 amps - the reason for this sort of advice is that too much speed or power and you risk heating your tyres up to much and/or ripping them apart. A variable power supply is advisable so that you can adjust the power to control these factors to suit the tyres you are truing.
 

ParrotGod
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You need a variable power supplier that can handle up to 10 V with at least 2 amp output - a 5 amp unit would be even better.
 

Kevs Racing Bits
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...but if you want competitive urethanes they'll need to be smoother than a smooth thing then polished to a shine.
 

Rich Dumas
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I agree with Kevan, urethane tires must be polished after they have been trued to get the best grip. I polish tires by running many, many laps on a skid pad. My skid pad is made up of Ninco track, which is very rough. If the tires are on aluminum wheels I put them on a mule chassis and run that in one direction for perhaps 30 minutes, then for 30 minutes in the other direction. It can take a number of cycles to get the tires perfectly smooth.
 

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I've used one of these adjustable step-down power supply convertor modules which I picked up off Ebay some years ago now for around $3.
I wired it up to a 12v power power supply from an old mobile phone charger and use it to power my Tyre Razor and Tamiya 'running road'.
Works well and for the price and I did buy some spares, never know what else you will need them for.
Easy to read digital display, and has been used many, many times over the years.
Voltage is changed using a flathead screwdriver in the brass screw at the top.





Thought I'd post it here for those who would like something on the cheaper side.

Matt
 

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Is that on a RSM truer? Not all of these types of truers have the same motor.
No it is a Hudy hooked up to a variable power supply. Others in our area with other brands have found the same thing. The actual voltage /amperage doesn't really matter. The point is to "finish" off the truing at the slowest rpm that the truer wants to run.
 

ParrotGod
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I've used one of these adjustable step-down power supply convertor modules which I picked up off Ebay some years ago now for around $3.
I wired it up to a 12v power power supply from an old mobile phone charger and use it to power my Tyre Razor and Tamiya 'running road'.
Works well and for the price and I did buy some spares, never know what else you will need them for.
Easy to read digital display, and has been used many, many times over the years.
Voltage is changed using a flathead screwdriver in the brass screw at the top.





Thought I'd post it here for those who would like something on the cheaper side.

Matt
that is very interesting. I have one of these as well, bought years ago.
I thought that they were not that good at handling high amps.
 

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that is very interesting. I have one of these as well, bought years ago.
I thought that they were not that good at handling high amps.
I didn't think it would work either at first but for $3 (and the 8 week wait from China) it was worth it.
I used to have a bench PSU which my young son thought he'd turn the dials to see what they did,
suffice to say he stuffed the PSU and it had to be binned, had only just started using it to.
I'm currently looking for another with a knob so I can adjust the voltage instead of using a screwdriver.

Matt
 
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