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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Have been a lurker here since the forum began but have now bitten the bullet and am a'posting.

I am holding off upgrading my existing track power supply and here's why. Currently (no pun) I have separate scaley stock power per lane. This is the accepted upgrade to avoid any power surges following opposition de-slotting.

If I upgrade to running both lanes with a single high amped regulated power supply, will the problem of power surges not return?


Do these power surges only occur when cars are running starved of current then suddenly have access to more (i.e. opposition deslot).


I hope someone can clarify as I do fancy an upgrade in power but don't want to have to buy two pricey power supplies.

Thanks in advance

Frosty
 

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Hi Frosty - welcome

As I understand it the "basic" power supplies are not stabilised so their voltage can vary depending on the load/current being drawn (liked that currently "no pun" by the way).

So, if one car deslots the draw on the power supply decreases, the voltage goes up increasing your cars speed and possibly sending it hurtling off the track too.

The great thing about this set up is that it's never your fault if you crash


A regulated power supply does help to solve this problem but be sure to check it has adequate short circuit protection. Mine did not and I'm back to using two Scalextric power supplies

Unless you are running some real monster motors with loads of magnet I would think the Scalextric setup you already have should be pretty adequate and, I imagine you could buy a couple of new cars with that cash too...
 

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DT
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You can't go wrong with a regulated power supply.

Run power leads from each lane to the power supply.

Make sure that the leads are rated for the amps of the power supply.

I upgraded to a 6 amp variable voltage power supply unit. I had individual Scaley transformers on the lanes before, but these weren't constant and not exactly the same voltage. The power supply that I now have has a couple of 12 V outlets for track lighting too as a bonus.

Welcome in as a member to the forum
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Welcome to the board from me too!

The power supply must be 'Linear Regulated'. Then all you need is around 3A per lane, plenty of power taps, fuses inbuilt or inline with the leads and if the voltage can be varied all the better!

If you ask nicely Mr Nuro might post some pics and direct info on his one
It came from the UK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys,


I think I'll give it a go.

I have been looking at what looks like a suitable power supply: I wont mention the supplier but the specs are as follows:

*Type...............................Mains Transformer driven linear regulator
*Max output power............100 watts
*Max output current...........7 amps
*Voltage output.................13.8V dc
*Input Voltage...................215V - 240V ac (not suitable for USA!)
*Protection........................Short Circuit and Overload

This is the one I am considering, it looks like it fits to bill to me.

Should I be aware of anything else not mentioned above?


If I'm allowed I'll post a link as its only £40 (and no I'm not the retailer!)

Frosty
 

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Al Schwartz
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You might want to consider a variable supply - e.g. 5-15 volts. It is useful for running in new cars and handy to be able to reduce the voltage (thus speed) for beginning drivers . I use a 35 A metered supply. The meters are useful to reset the voltage and to detect the inevitable short when (not if) a screw or piece of braid lodges between the rails.

EM
 

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Rich Dumas
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Swissracer mentioned fuses, don't count on any fuse or breaker that is built into a power supply saving you if something goes wrong. I use a seperate fuse for each lane. Use the smallest fuse that won't blow in normal use. Fuses are a lot cheaper than motors, controllers or track sections. I know someone that left a pair of pliers or something across the track rails, he punched the controller but the car wouldn't go. His controller got very hot and a section of track was melted. Ouch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Melted!!

Its all sounding rather scary all of a sudden. And all in the name of racing.

I appreciate the variable option but then we are looking at sixty quid plus.

As I don't have a permanent set up I would have to build a box of some sort to house a fuse (one for each lane). Phew, I think I might stack with my stockies for now and wait until my wife allows me to have a permanent track.

Frosty (the un-melted) Snowman
 

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Well at least you've melted the ice...


If you do go ahead, I really would suggest that you check what it says about that short circuit/overload thing i.e. not just short term.

That was what mine had, was 13.8 v, 7amps and now costs about £40. Hmmm... served me well enough for years powering my RC battery charger but it didn't work out so well for track use even though I had fuses in line. I might just have been unlucky of course but it was out of warantee by then.


Good luck
 

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Says 3 amps max on the box and you've 6+ on the dial. You don't want photographic evidence like that when it goes back under warantee


Looks a beaut though. I'd like one next to my track even if I didn't use it
 

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DT
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QUOTE (JohnP @ 4 Dec 2003, 07:01 PM)Says 3 amps max on the box and you've 6+ on the dial. You don't want photographic evidence like that when it goes back under warantee


Looks a beaut though. I'd like one next to my track even if I didn't use it

The 3 amps max is for the fixed output (tracklights)


I'm not overloading the unit with 4 lanes.
 

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Dear Nuro

I'm impressed, i'm still waiting to sell my real classic car (in the garage) before my permanent set up is built, but in my advanced planning I was going to purchase the DS power system (stepped from 2V - 16V? Approx. (don't quote me!)

We (Mr. Material and Scott) raced the other night at a new track local to us and that was powered by DS set at 12V. Amazing racing! all the different brands of model were very even and balanced.

How much (approx.) did you pay for this power pack? - I'm tempted!

Gareth
 

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DT
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QUOTE (JEXY1 @ 4 Dec 2003, 07:59 PM)How much (approx.) did you pay for this power pack? - I'm tempted!
I picked it up at Pendle's. It usually retails for 90 squid, but I was able to obtain a small discount. Also I didn't pay handling and shipping as I carried it off. Trouble with these things is that they weigh quite a bit and getting it online adds quite a bit to the price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nuro's "Big Jobs" Supply certainly does look the business, but its still the best part of a hundred pounds!


Nuro, have you also got seperate fuses as per RichDs suggestion? (remember the melting!)

Looking around I have spotted the new Kelvin Light supply now available here in the UK. It has been designed specifically for slot-car use and has regulated 'switched outputs' from 12 to 20V at 2 amps.

Can someone please explain why a "linear" supply is a preferred choice over a "switched" supply (such as the Kelvin one). Are they both not regulated (and short circuit proteced, fused etc.)?

Confused I am yes,


Frosty
 

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I'll follow this 'switched vs linear' discussion with interest, as I am not too sure either.
But I would suggest that the Kelvin unit might be a little light(!) for 4 lanes of high powered or high magnet cars. I would suggest that you can get a lot more amps for not much more money. Though, if there is never an intention for 4 lanes, this could be irrelevant. Nice to have that spare power in reserve though - just in case!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
"It may be a little light for four lanes.." - you mean insufficient amps? What about for a large two laner?


To get the thread back to where it started, would a single 'switched' regulated power supply such as the Kelvin model still suffer from the dreaded power surge that I want to avoid by upgrading?

I am guessing that the answers will be 'no' as its a regulated supply, but then we still haven't established why linear is superior to switched.


Beginning to see the light........

Frosty
 

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I don't know this unit but a regulated supply should hold a constant'ish voltage irrespective of load. However, if you ask for more current than it can give it will probably just cut out if it is protected properly or blow up if it isn't.
 
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