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2889 Views 29 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Stubacca03
My new layout uses the SCX Rally Chrono, SCX Chicane and Scaley Sport Track for the rest. I've noticed a reduction in power on certain bits of track.
Whats the best option to create a consistent voltage throught the whole track?

I've looked at the SCX and Sport Boost cables, would they work with SCX sport combination, if so how? Or are ther better options?

Please be aware I'm a total noob when it comes to electrics so keep it simple!

Thanks in advance.

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You may have poor connections between some of the track sections, that will give you a lower voltage in some places. Unless the sections with poor connections are the ones where jumpers happen to be connected jumpers will not cure your problem. Before you do anything else take a good look at your track. With Sport track sometimes the rails can be a little lower than the track surface here and there, if that is the case if the cars's pickups are not adjusted properly your cars will slow down on those spots because the braid will ride on the track, not on the rails. Twisting the braids to make a shallow V when viewed from the back will give you better contact. If tinkering with the braids does not fix your problem you should find and repair any bad joints before you consider adding jumpers or copper taping your track. Finding the bad connections is complicated by the fact that power goes both ways around the track, so in order to troubleshoot the joints you have to dissconnect the track on one side of the place that power comes in. If you then put a car on the side that is still connected you can drive it slowly until you find a place where it wants to stall. When you have located a bad joint you will have to open it up and bend the contacts to get a good connection before you continue around the track. There are more sophisticated ways of troubleshooting a track that include putting a load on the circuit and taking readings with a volt meter.
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If you can make all of the joints perfect there is a way to even out the voltage drop due to the resistance of the rails themselves. If you connect all of your positive taps in one location and all of your negative taps half way around the track from there the voltage will have to be the same all around the track.
The trick that I have proposed is commonly used on braided tracks in the US. The voltage has to be the same all around the track because there is always the same lenth of track braid in the circuit no matter where the car is on the track. There is a voltage drop due to the resistance of the braid of course.
Most ohm meters are not all that great for measuring low resistance values and one problem that I have run into is that the connection betweenn the test leads and the body of the meter or in the contacts of the selector switch can cause trouble. Here is a method that I have used. First disconnect the last track section before the one where power comes in. Put a car with the rear axle removed on that last section and apply full power. Hopefully the motor will run, if not move the car to a place where it does. Using a volt meter take readings across the joints, stay on the same rail, do not take readings between the right and left rail. If a joint is good you will read no voltage, if the joint is defective it will act like a resistor and you will read the voltage drop. Fix defective joints as you go.
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