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Keith,
Ive never seen a technical post so clear and well thought out, neat work, wow Im impressed! Love the moving images showing flipper and relay action, really cool! Any "dummy" should be able to do this with such a good description.

Rick
 

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The out put signal from the timer can be used to activate the entry flipper to straight through, move the exit flipper to correct position and set the polarities correct on entry and exit flippers.
Also removing the rails before the flipper is not necessary with the right logic being used.
Although better than nothing doing this just reduces the chance of being stranded, there is still the chance of being stuck on a dead zone.
The more you explore this the more you'll realise its easier to use a chip to run it all.
 

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Youre looking at around 40ms to 100ms as delay.
 

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QUOTE (K3ITH @ 14 May 2009, 22:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Therefore 40ms = about 4" of car travel and 100ms about 10" of travel - a pretty good distance!

So thats around 254mm....hmmmmm 260mm sounds familar somewhere

And the slower the section the more protection time you need obviously, so its good you have it adjustable, say 30ms up to 100ms.
 

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AC is good for competition situations. I'd hate to see a close 100 lap race ruined by a back marker who just thought he'd change lanes on you. And rules are ok, but try to enforce them, it doesnt happen in a friendly situation.
 

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No problem.
The best way to measure cars velocities is measure the time it takes the cars in each lane to get from AC sensor to LC sensor and make a program that can then work out cars speeds and deactivates the entry flipper(s) for precisely the correct time.
Rick
 

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No, the flipper hasnt changed polarity to suit the situation, and its creating a short, thus overloading the PB.
 

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Hmmm, if it works now it should have worked before.
 

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hi Mark,
Keith is the man to ask. Im not sure why you need tape but Im sure theres a reason. If reversing polarity on pit flipper worked then theres a clue, go back and try it on the first LC you wired. Its a great mod when it works hey.
 

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Im sure it could somehow be done but hall sensor wouldnt determine if the car was going straight or changing lanes, plus we already have a detector which is easier to utilise.......
 

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Good news Phil. The soldering iron, really only 3 tricks to know. I know how you felt, I still get anxiety thinking about programming a VCR to record, not that Ive had one for years.
So now you are not challenged any longer.
For those wanting to learn soldering theres many tutorials on YouTube to learn off.

Rick
 

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Has anyone tried re-energising the flipper solenoid as the car passes? This would press the flipper against the track rail to power the flipper.
Yeah that was tried in 2005. With limited success. All sorts of things were tried including magnets.

Rick
 

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Controllers do indeed cause issues that are identical to car chip issues.

Rick
 

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Thanks Rick.

It's interesting because a standard car at low speed sometimes stops and sometimes continues. This suggests there is enough continuity for it to work. That's on all unmodified components, going straight I.e no lane change.
Perhaps a perfectly clean rail and flipper, plus perfect car braids.
Yes it can work but not reliably.
 
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