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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Any car going straight through on either the flipper of fixed flipper lane only needs to trigger one relay. When a Lane Change is requested both relays are triggered.

The animation below should help to show what happens (updates every 4 seconds)
 

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IMPORTANT: Don't miss this step on the CLC Powered-Flipper

As with the straight Lane-Change flipper - It is critical to insulate the flipper from touching the rail - if an un-insulated flipper hits the rail before the relay has switched then a direct short occurs between the relay contactors and they will fail. Make sure that the flipper still moves freely after you have applied the tape!

The original dummies guide used electrical insulation tape around the end of the flipper...


However, I found that in the summer months, the electrical insulation tape became soft and lost some of its adhesion. A much better solution was to use 3/16ths car pin striping tape (I figured the adhesive was designed to stick on a car body throughout a huge temperature range) and instead of applying it to the end of the flipper, I positioned it directly on the rails either side of the flipper (Both Rails Must Be Insulated From The Flipper) - The position is such that the cars guide blade doesn't hit the edge of the tape.

This has proved to be very reliable and better than the option above...
 

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Awesome K3ith, really awesome. Minor mod and we could get the anti-collision that Injectorman started off on before it grew to a complete new system....
 

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I was thinking again, and yes it still hurts, about the connection between the flipper pin and the flipper power lead. If you have some copper adhesive tape could you solder the wire to the tape then cut the tape to length and stick it to the flipper pin? You would have cut away some of the plastic from around the flipper pin to account for pin movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
QUOTE Awesome K3ith, really awesome. Minor mod and we could get the anti-collision that Injectorman started off on before it grew to a complete new system....
Riko,

Thanks for your comments.

Interesting - "Anti-Collision" I had not considered this - I think you mean, if a car 'in lane A' requests a lane-change then the relay would be employed to disable the sensor 'in lane B' and provide "Anti-Collision" This mod would probably also need to include a timer device so as the sensor was disabled for a brief period only. Am I on the right track? (no pun intended)

Keith…
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
QUOTE I was thinking again, and yes it still hurts, about the connection between the flipper pin and the flipper power lead. If you have some copper adhesive tape could you solder the wire to the tape then cut the tape to length and stick it to the flipper pin? You would have cut away some of the plastic from around the flipper pin to account for pin movement.
That's a good idea and your suggestion might work - However, the flipper must be able to move, very freely, from side to side. Anything attached to the flipper pin that creates too much friction or restricts complete movement must be avoided, because it might stop the end of the flipper from swinging completely to the rail and will result in a high risk of a Blade Guide hitting the end of the flipper - which is not good


Keith...
 

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The method that is described in this mod, requires some amount of pressure on the pin to keep a good contact between the pin and wire. I was thinking ( Oh crap more pain and suffering) that if you used a soft silicon insulated multi strand wire, like the green and yellow wires supplied on the Scaly digital chip pickup wires, then the forces supplied by the fixed connection on the pin would be minimized..... the only way to test this theory would be to try it and guess what I don't have... yeah the copper tape!
 

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QUOTE (K3ITH @ 11 May 2009, 07:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Riko,

Thanks for your comments.

Interesting - "Anti-Collision" I had not considered this - I think you mean, if a car 'in lane A' requests a lane-change then the relay would be employed to disable the sensor 'in lane B' and provide "Anti-Collision" This mod would probably also need to include a timer device so as the sensor was disabled for a brief period only. Am I on the right track? (no pun intended)

Keith&#8230;

Yes, use the non LC side signal to throw a sprung relay so that instantaneously the LC side sees a straight on signal. Trick would be to get one that has enough latency.
 

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It's lucky that I'm a masochist and enjoy pain, suffering and punishmnet because I've been thinking again. Many years ago, around the time Newton died, I was working on an electronic reusable targeting system and I needed to build a square wave pulse generator and 0-99 digital counter. I found the circuits in an electronic project book put out by Radio Shack here in the USA. The resurection of that old brain cell got me to thinking again. I wonder if there is a timer circuit in that book and lo there was! It is based on a 555 timer chip, it can, be fired by a monentary switch or a pulse and operates a 6-9V relay and has an input voltage of 9v. It has a variable 1M ohm risister to vary time delay. So you could vary the time the lane change flipper is set to straight to avoid colisions.If anyone wants this circuit to try to incorperate it into lane change I would be willing to copy it and try to put the image of the circuit diagram on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Gorp,

I like your simple approach


However, I found when I told a newbie to "never stop on a flipper" the magnetic powers of the flipper increased - It was more effective to tell a newbie that the objective was to stop on a flipper
 

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Here is RichardTB's timer circuit

. .................................. 9V............................................



. .................................................EARTH.....................
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Riko,

Thanks for that - You gave me a good reason to play with my 'Electronics learning lab'


The circuit works perfectly and the 1M Potentiometer gives a Relay switching range from less than 1 second to 10 seconds.

Still thinking about "Anti-Collision" and not sure if it's worth the effort - but it's definately doable


Keith...
 

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I'm with lang1 on that one. I think if it CAN be done, it SHOULD be done, even if not everyone does it. If there's a way to make it switchable, that would be even better, so that a track can be made for "banger racing" as well as anti-collision.
I'm planning to do the powered flipper relays down the road. If I can include optional anti-collision in the process, that would be great!
 

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QUOTE Any car crossing either sensor will trigger the correct voltage on the flippers - However, it is very possible for a close racing car to pass one trigger and then the second car to request a lane change and trigger the voltage on the exit flipper - this will result in a short between the rail and flipper - To eliminate this issue I have removed 2 short sections of the rails (about 13mm - 0.5 inch) It might look like a large gap but by the time the braid leaves the rail it's just a few mm before it touches the flipper! The removal of the rail section is critical otherwise close racing cars are going to create a short circuit - trust me!

K3ITH,
Would this also apply to the entry flipper. That is, to cut the rails to avoid a short between the flipper and the wrong rail?
Assuming there is power in both rails as they diverge away from the switch, is it not likely to short with a frayed braid?
If not, please explain.
Thanks.
CHeers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
sealevel,

No, it doesn't apply to the entry flipper.

In the image below, lane1 controls the flipper. The flipper is set to change lanes - the entry flipper is negative and the exit positive - the rail just behind the entry flipper (in the direction of car travel) is negative so no short can occur - When Lane1 switches to straight through, the entry flipper is positive and the rail just behind the flipper is also positive, so again no short can occur.

However, Lane2 can only go straight through and will always switch the exit to negative but it's quite a long way from sensor2 to the exit - there's a risk that a car in Lane2 crosses sensor2 and the exit is switched to negative, but before the car reaches the negative exit a car in Lane1 crosses sensor1 requesting a Lane Change, the exit is switched to positive and this creates a condition where a braid can span the gap between the negative rail in Lane2 to the positive exit. A similar condition can also occur from the positve rail of Lane1 - The rail removal section eliminates this potential issue.
 

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QUOTE New problem! If I power the exit flippers to match the in flippers and if there is a car on the track very close to the exit flipper and another car triggers the lane changer then the first car will experience the wrong polarity as it goes over the exit flipper.
Question will this do damage to the digital chip in the car?

No. Technologically, the SSD track swaps polarity over 10,000 times a second to carry the digital data, so the flipper being 'the other polarity' is neither here nor there. But if you look carefully, you'll see that the flipper is not the other polarity, but the exact same polarity as the other rail on the slot, thereby presenting zero volts to the car. In effect, its exactly the same as having no power to the flipper.

You are in no danger - only that the flipper mod, while better than nothing, is not perfect. The only way to improve it is to get the flipper power decision much closer to the flipper, or the car being on the flipper.
 
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