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Pro Mod Questions

6566 Views 64 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  woodcote
Get myself a Pro Mod soon but got couple of questions need to ask so can get car built,

1) Is there a limit on the type of material or strength of the motor or traction magnets?

2) What are the tracks voltage and amps limited to for the races?

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Although this discussion took a detour to the Kesgrave thread, here's my 5 cents worth:

If you want a class that is 75% utter frustration and 25% complete exhilaration, come to Pro-Mod.

If you make it to year two (and, looking at the stats, most don't) it might even out to only 50% frustration, but maybe not

The crucial thing is how much you're prepared to learn (and spend) in that first year. Ask whether 2 or 3 half-decent races during the year are sufficient to overcome the frustration of burned armatures, dead cars and last place finishes. One race you might think you've cracked it, then it's disaster again at the next two or three races.

It may be strange for me to say, but the learning process was as enjoyable for me as eventually winning races. And the wins were sweeter because of the hard work, blood, sweat and tears. Not everyone is like that.

Buying a ready-to-race chassis is a tough one. If it's built in the States, it will need significant refining for our big tracks. The best 'customer' runners in Pro-Mod have definitely been Craig (Martech G3) and Jimbo (Jon Cryer G3). I think the problem for both was when something went wrong they weren't confident of what to do to fix it.

Running in Pro requires some knowledge of keeping the car running, an ability to problem-solve and a massive amount of patience. An interest in car building also helps.

It is a long-term project that you need to be up for. Other racers will give you tips and advice, but you'll need to do the work.

When you're ready, start with a Storm Extreme, change the armature and traction magnets, add a lexan shell and take it from there. Initial cost = £45 including shipping. Add £15 for some spares, £25 for tools and another £15 every couple of months to develop the car over the first year.
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I think you might find there is a big difference with the performance of Storm set-up we run and the P3 - both in terms of grip and motor speed. The extra grip means we can run the SP05 arm, which was a little too punchy in the P3. It also means we are carrying a lot more speed through the corners.

Otherwise, the Storms we run have the same motor mags (ceramic grade polymers) as the P3. Another amp or two and stronger poly motor mags and the 'factory' neo tractions might come into play. That's $50+ straight off - so I'm happy with the 1.2 amps

Like Marc and his Slottech, I really enjoyed developing the P3. I did beat some G3s with it on a good day and could beat either Clive or Marc (and both of them once, I think), but only if they had a problem. But the Storm is a different beast and is exhilarating to drive. And - believe it or not - cheaper to build
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The Extreme comes with neos, but they are a little weedy. It's the Harden Creek Storm neos that we've been running.

What you've got is exactly what I ran at NSR - the only difference being the HC neos and a used 3.5 ohm Tyco arm (not the balanced one). It was thrown together the night before.

On red and green I did 51.75 with the basic Storm and 45.8 on blue and yellow with a P3 that was developed as far as it could go. The Storm's fastest lap was 6.39 and the P3s was 7.32. That's what decided me on switching to develop the Storm.

The rest is history

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Just a heads-up that there's an article on my Storm build in the latest issue (#15) of SlotCar MAG.
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