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Programming the carship

3K views 32 replies 6 participants last post by  Profoxcg 
glad I found this thread. Very good information !

I have some questions of my own:

Q1: when I try to change the TRACK from #1 to any other other 2-4 tracks, I don't seem to be able to change anything. Is the controller smart enough to know in my case that it is the only one in the room and therefore by default be or belong to track #1 ( I am pressing the brake button and turning the yellow know) I have a dongle, does it have anything to do with the dongle?

Q2:In order to change the controllers channel/ID do I always need a car to associate it with? I seems that in order to change the controllers ID you need to go through the steps of pairing a car for the controllers settings to stay. If this correct?

Q3: Does the blue know still limit the amount of power delivered to the car in linear mode? I cant see a difference in O2.
 
Programming error?

Last night I was trying to program my cars to a different channel. When I would press the brake and down button to change the settings, the controller would display what looked like a number 6 and not do anything.
I would have to disconnect power and try again several times until eventually it worked. I am wondering what that #6 means.
 
Correct me if I am wrong:

To program a car and controller.
1 I should take all cars off the track
2 press brake button to check settings
3 press down button + brake and move knobs accordingly
4 while holding down brake+down button press trigger
5 place car on track while pressing trigger
6 let go of trigger when "circular" display turns into the channel number (selected in step 3).
7 ready to do - or does the car need to taken off the track and placed on the track again?

Thanks.
 
It happened again today. I left both the controller and the car powered while I went to the restroom.
When I returned this is what I found, and It did not work. I had to turn the controller off for a few minutes, than it worked. Could it be its loosing its ID (I have not flashed it yet)

 
QUOTE (Slot.it @ 11 May 2012, 11:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>All manuals updated.
Note that the SCP-1 and its cartridge can be powered from the USB type connector near the top.
I'll let you have the wiring details next week if you want.

That would be good to see, yes please. right now I have a 9V battery plug running inside the controller and towards the back.
I am working on attaching the 9V somehow to where you would attach the personal lap counting box.
 
^ that cool. I would like to have a small lipo. I think the v1.1 can run on 6V ? or something low. Cant find the info though.
either way to the time being those 9V are going fast (and they are not cheap $5 form radioshack here in the US)
 
yeah for some reason I did not think they made 9V Nimh rechargeable.
Thanks for making me look. Its going to save me $ in the long run. I have a ton of Nimh AAA from when I used to race mini-z and a charger already.

I am wondering if something like that could be installed in the back of the controller.

 
QUOTE (Slot.it @ 12 May 2012, 03:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...
Actually, I am convinced that it is way more convenient to have a battery pack attached to the cable, and inside your pocket, rather than attaching it to the top of controller, making it heavier..

yeah but to me it every time I wanted to put the controller down I have to take the cord our of my pocket. I don't attaching the battery to the controller makes a huge difference. The supplied cable with the O2 module is quite heavy if you think about you. Maybe what we need is a thinner power cable the one you use on your controller (videos Ive seen) But I still think that when I put the controller down in the tablet I dont want to reach into my pocket and pick out a box and wire. Not a big deal just preference.
 
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