SlotForum banner

Programming the carship

3K views 32 replies 6 participants last post by  Profoxcg 
#1 ·
Hi there oXygen fans and criticasters,

Yesterday ran we an extensive test program using only the SCP 1.0 with the radio cartridges and the car chips.
We used Proslot III powered 1/28 P & n chassis with a Mazda 787B we normally use for analogue races and testing.

What we tested

Programming the SCP-1.0 / Carchip ID's using the the SCP-1.0 itself > Worked flawlessly
Car response on trigger movement compared to 2 other controller types (PWM controller and NPN transistor (Not a darlington with HFE of 100) using a voltage bridge (wiper) of approx 200 ohms
Various settings of the dipswitches (35%, 45%, 55% 60%) in conjunction with the mainly the curve knob.

Results

Car response is beyond what our club ciriticasters expected it to be! Which means response is really good:)
Braking power (very important for the heavier 1/28 1/24 scale) is much better. This is due to the fact that the braking current of the engine does NOT have to flow through the whole track > back to the controller and then to (-) of the powerbase.
Compared to our NPN transistor (just like the difalco, stealth, nezih controllers) the brake response (not brake power) is slightly less. I normal terms. The time it takes before the car starts braking after you release the trigger is very little higher then a direct shortcut brake. This behaviour is by the way normal for every PWM based controller and has nothing to do with the SCP 1.0 or oXygen system. An ACD controller suffers form the same problem.

Question
As said, reprogramming the car worked flawlessly but:
What happens if I use the documented procedure and I put 2 cars on the powered track and try to program them on the same time? In other words: How does the carchip know it's is "him" who needs to set it's internal ID? In other words part II: How does the carchip which should NOT be programmed know this?

For the rest: Tomorrow I receive the dongle (probably firmware 1.0) so I got some reflashing to do......

Keep you posted...

Willem
 
See less See more
#28 ·
yeah for some reason I did not think they made 9V Nimh rechargeable.
Thanks for making me look. Its going to save me $ in the long run. I have a ton of Nimh AAA from when I used to race mini-z and a charger already.

I am wondering if something like that could be installed in the back of the controller.

 
#29 ·
Yes you are probably right, sorry - off my head only 1.1. can be powered from the battery port.

Actually, I am convinced that it is way more convenient to have a battery pack attached to the cable, and inside your pocket, rather than attaching it to the top of controller, making it heavier

IMHO possibly the most cost-effective solution is 6 AA or 6 AAA batteries - especially if you already have them: get a cheap battery holder:
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1156
put your cells in and you get a lot of time on batteries. AA cells NiMH have at least 2000 mAh, AAA around 900/1000 which will provide you with plenty of playing time.

If want you use a 9V rechargeable, I'd suggest getting a 9.6V like this
rechargeable.http://www.atbatt.com/product/24293.asp
that also has a good capacity (230 mAh)

More pricey (as you need a custom charger) but probably good for 9V
http://www.batterymart.com/p-r-li9600-9vol...on-battery.html
http://www.batteryjunction.com/ipowerus-9v-500.html

Probably 6xAAA or 6xAA is the cheapest solution. In terms of capacity 6XAAA is twice as much as a LiPo 9V, 6xAA 4 or 5 times more.
 
#30 ·
QUOTE (Slot.it @ 12 May 2012, 03:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...
Actually, I am convinced that it is way more convenient to have a battery pack attached to the cable, and inside your pocket, rather than attaching it to the top of controller, making it heavier..

yeah but to me it every time I wanted to put the controller down I have to take the cord our of my pocket. I don't attaching the battery to the controller makes a huge difference. The supplied cable with the O2 module is quite heavy if you think about you. Maybe what we need is a thinner power cable the one you use on your controller (videos Ive seen) But I still think that when I put the controller down in the tablet I dont want to reach into my pocket and pick out a box and wire. Not a big deal just preference.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top