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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Following on from my post in Alan's "!Is no one building anything!, Wake up out there" thread
here are a few more pictures of the new Ladybrook Valley Raceway under construction.

First up, the table top built with the track fully routed:



...and the bridge section raised up on wood blocks:



As you can see a start has also been made sticking down the copper tape track conductors. In fact the first section of tape didn't go down as smoothly as I would have liked - probably because I was spreading on the Evo-Stick like lumpy gravy! A thin application of glue definitely seems to be the way to go here.

So, hopefully we're now only a few days away from our first test drive.



Brmmm brmmm... can't wait!
 

· Brian Ferguson
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Looking good, JP!


Interesting though, you're putting the tape down before you paint the surface? I've always done it after, as I've found the paint gave a better surface for the tape to adhere to. I know you obviously have your reasons.... let's hear them!


Nice track!
....and no velcro in sight....
 

· Graham Windle
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fergy Ive always put the tape down first Ive found it better , the current tape at pendle has been down for years with out a problemand it also reduces the tape above track hight when you paint after
 

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There are no squeeze sections Graham although I was tempted to put one in at the esses. I'm not totally decided on the start position or direction of travel yet so I figured building in a squeeze would just limit options later on.

Fergy, I don't reckon tape adhesion will be an issue here. Having said that I would have painted the track before laying the tape but for some kind advice from Sean at Pendle. The rationale? The thickness of the paint raises the track bed closer to the height of the conductors giving a near level running surface. This way the painting will be a bit more finicky but no more so than painting my old Scaley track!*

QUOTE Looks good John. I want to see a grid full of F1's on it!
So do I Jay. Let's just hope Rocky doesn't get too attached to all those F1's he's playing with right now!

*looks like Grah snuck the answer in before I could - at least I got it right though
 

· Dennis Samson
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Maybe Rocky can just send you all the cars and we can run another round of the Proxy? Looks like your circuit will be done by the time the Utah series concludes, seeing as the good Prof had plans for about 10 races!
 

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John

I've been too busy to keep up with everything posted on SlotForum recently but you've somehow managed to construct a superb routed track in that time. It looks very professionally planned and built.

What are the overall dimensions and can you send it to me as I think it looks like it will just fit into my summerhouse that still awaits my Earls Hall Park circuit....

Have you thought about the scenery and the period setting yet?

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi David. The overall dimensions of the track are 12' by 4' although as you can see it goes in and out a little being just 25.5" at the narrowest point:



...even so I don't think it would fit through your letterbox


I'm still wavering as to period and scenery but a relaxed 60's/70's Oulton Park type vibe seems the most likely candidate.
 

· Alan Tadd
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Superb John....Just got back from a very cold Newcastle, so I'm late joining in on this one. I'm very impressed, but I hadn't even thought of laying the tape before painting the track, but if you Graham and Sean say that's they way to go then so be it!....the only voice of dissention appears to be Fergy....and I really hate to say this, but I would have agreed with him!, (Whatever next! .....
).

The next question is what are you going to use for track paint?.....Luf and his Archer buddies keep going on about Latex paint, but I'm not really sure what that is in English, perhaps Fergy can explain....(although second thoughts perhaps not!).

Keep up the good work and Santa is bringing my router!.

Regards

Alan
 

· Brian Ferguson
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Relax, BJ... I won't make you count that as agreeing with me! The world would probably stop revolving properly if that ever happened!


It makes sense actually to "sink" the tape by painting last. It was the adhesion to bare MDF that I was thinking about, but apparently it is not an issue.

Latex? Simply, it is the term here for water-based rather than oil-based paints. Latex paints come in many forms - including acrylics. If it cleans up with soap and water, we call it latex. Latex paints used to lack the durability offered by oil or solvent-based paints, but that is no longer true. I don't use anything other than latex paint now unless absolutely necessary.
 

· Alan Tadd
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Ah...I see Fergy!....
. I guess to us in the UK that would be plain ole emulsion paint......There you go JP....Perhaps a nice pea green or perhaps you could borrow some of Graham's very tasteful pink that he finishes his Proxy cars in.... Don't tell me you're going to use grey!. I really would consult Mrs. H on this one. You know what an eye for colour she has.

Can't wait for you're next pictures.


Regards

Alan

PS I thought the tape was self-adhesive?.....Don't say I've got to stick it down as well as all the rest of the work.....
 

· Brian Ferguson
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BJ, it IS self-adhesive! That's where my concern for adhering to bare MDF originated from! I always figured a painted, smooth surface would give more "stick" to the adhesive... but apparently it doesn't mind bare wood at all.


Not that I care.... I'm gonna use braid.
.... just to be different...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE The next question is what are you going to use for track paint?.....
Alan, the best choice here is of course mrs h's Irish pasty gravy. Unfortunately though supplies are scarce - a gentleman (whom mrs h would only refer to as "Bernie") having bought up all her stocks some weeks ago.

So, what to do? Well a trip to B&Q yielded this:



...the paint not the Porsche that is.

Incidentally, there's no Blue Peter sticky back tape here guys - it's all stuck down with Evo-Stick "solvent free" Impact adhesive (although I'm sure mrs h's Irish pasty gravy would work equally well for this too
)

Here's tonight's work in progress:



 

· Brian Ferguson
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Looking good, JP... of course!


You have to apply adhesive to the tape?
That may, in fact, be better really, since you can choose the best adhesive for the surface and may get a much better bond.
Not aware of products here that aren't self adhesive though they may exist. Some of the best tapes here are from stained glass window and craft houses, but I have yet to see one that didn't need an occasional burnishing here and there to keep the tape laying 100% flat.

But I think we have better pizza...
 

· Rob
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That looks really good JohnP. The track plan looks (deceptively ?) simple, and I bet it's a blast to drive. Great to see a pictorial step by step too.

You seem to be one of those (annoying!!) people who can turn their hand to anything and get a professional-looking result!!

The trouble is that this is one of several great routed tracks being built by forum members, and I'm now wandering around muttering to myself 'haven't got room, can't afford it, wife would kill me, haven't got room.....'

I'm getting some strange looks!

Keep up the good work, mate, and keep the photos coming.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
QUOTE You seem to be one of those (annoying!!) people who can turn their hand to anything and get a professional-looking result!!
You wouldn't say that if you'd seen my pitiful attempts at home-made Irish pasty making Rob. Tricky business, best left to experts like mrs h in my humble.

Anyway, IT WORKS!

The track surface is painted:



and the electrics are in place:



Next up the board edgings and barriers. Before I break too many more cars on the concrete floor.
 
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