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prorace clk

2758 Views 27 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  mtucker666
at our club we had a guy with a ninco prorace clk straight out the box wheelhopped bad enough to fling out of the slot. pretty much everyone there tried to sort it, tryed everything but it still bounced. the guy took it back got another one and it did the same again. so what im asking is are all prorace clks like this, or was it just a bad batch?
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What is so special about these anyway? They don't have the ball bearings like the Subies, just hard axles, lame paint, lexan interior, and a fast motor? On their website it even shows the same chassis as the standard CLK GTR?
Wow, Harry, I've got to read slower! I read your review and thought you said it had plastic bushings? And missed the photo of the bearing? I don't know where I got the lexan interior bit? I think I need to wait until the afternoon to read reviews, sorry for the confusion.
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I do not have a prorace version, but I have several Nincos and they have mostly run very well with few mods, usually only shortening the front axle a little. I think that truing and gluing is a pretty standard treatment for most cars. I did have my Ninco McLaren start to wheel hop during tire spin leaving turns the other day, quite badly. It turned out to be the rear of the motor was moving slightly, a litttle CA glue and it was smooth again. I run most of them non mag and find that the Nincos are very well balanced out of the box for this, in comparison to front or sidewinder cars. JMHO
Larsson, I have obtained a rather large variety of cars in the short time I have been in the hobby. I have been liquidating a large number of diecasts and transfering to slots. Diecast cars now seem boring compared to cars you can really race! I have a few rallys; SCX, Ninco, Cartrix, some LMPs; Ninco, Scaly, SCX, Fly, some GTs; Fly, Ninco, Scaly, Proslot, some Vintage; Fly, Ninco, Carrera, Monogram, MRRC, Pink Kar, some F1, IRL, trucks, Hmmmm....I think I may need

CoolScientist, I like your name, but your Avitar keeps hypnotizing me!?

Redfiat, a small amount of play is good, but removing excess movement is another, almost standard tuning job. Also, if the cars don't crash when you go too fast, it would be kind of boring, huh? I find fun in tuning the cars to make the point at which they crash a bit faster. This is also why I run almost all of my cars without magnets, otherwise the crashes are severe. I true tires by putting the car backwards on the track and lowering onto a piece of sandpaper (150-200 grit) for about 10-15 seconds at a time. Although this doesn't work with the SCX Dome, must have some kind of diode or?
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