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prorace clk

2762 Views 27 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  mtucker666
at our club we had a guy with a ninco prorace clk straight out the box wheelhopped bad enough to fling out of the slot. pretty much everyone there tried to sort it, tryed everything but it still bounced. the guy took it back got another one and it did the same again. so what im asking is are all prorace clks like this, or was it just a bad batch?
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Well, I have fitted a ligt kit to it so I think that is draining a bit of power from the motor. So that's why I've got a Vette on order-same motor, same parts, same configuration. So I'll be able to tell you when it arrives. The Fly Lister motor burnt out months ago so I've just replaced it with a 5 year old Scalextric bog standard motor. It runs at the same pace as the GT40's. The 'Vette Speedvision will definitely get here between monday-friday of this week so I'll will setting up a good track-homework allowing and I'll tell you. My dad is very good as well so I could race against him. Note that I do only have 4 cars at the moment-mentioned earlier. But by Xmas, I should have about 10. My Birthday is on 26th November so I will put the Slot It Porsche, Truck and Boss 302 'Stang on my list. A friend has offered me £65 for all 3! Any more questions, please dont be afraid to ask.
Attention all those who are disappointed with their "drab" Prorace CLK bodies...

I really like them and will pay good money for one. Unfortunatly, I have no use for the underneath so the shell is all I'm after. Willing to swap for another shell...

As a few point out, most ninco cars run reasonably from the box.... However - when purchasing a new car, and to be able to run it first time out, I will purchase the following every time I buy a car...

1) The car
2) Replacement rear axle
3) Replacement front axle
4) Sprung guide/non sprung guide - which ever doesnt come with the car.

At least half the cars I have purchased have required at least one of the options to make it run right.

The problem with the CLK Prorace - is that it should run str8 out the box.... it should be tight as hell - no slop in the rear axle - never off center. The wheels should always be true.... however this is sadly failing to be true.

One of the guys at Molesey (wont mention his name) started a personel crusade with Ninco and started sending back to them - all the wheels he bought - that were not true. He bought a bulk set of about 40 axles for relevant cars over a period of about 3 months and got (approx) 8 true wheels - which to be honest is shambolic.

As mentioned by PeteN - I concur - trueing n glueing to be avital part of setting up a car.
Fixing the motor in place with tape or glue is also a must... I prefer superglue to hot glue - but hot glue is easier to free the engine than superglue.

When running the body loose.... file the edges of the body and chassis to allow a smooth roll of the shell. You may also want to stretch body a bit too - just gently prise the doors away from each other to allow some room between the shell and the chassis...

Glue the cockpit in - 4 dabs of supeglue to prevent that coming loose - beleive me they do - right at the wrong moment too.... I would also recommend any car that has a spare wheel in them - eg Ninco saxo rally car... glue that bugger in too....

Most ninco cars that I have puchased - have also suffered from twisted or warped chassis.... very evident under braking where the car slews to one side.... Ive tried everything from heating and putting in a vice.... to bending the bloody thing.... but Ive decided to live with them.....

In the case of my Ninco CLK and DTM - I fitted ballraces some time ago - not the metal but plastic ones... and both cars are damn tight on the rear axle - no slop at all....

So in the case of purchasing a Prorace..... I wont be.... if they arent as good as standard one..... ok they may be better - but I would expect the standard of my "modding" in the Prorace version......

As a consumer - I would add - that I feel its the presentation case thats at fault with the nincos... I have often noticed when the cars arrive - they are so tight on the screw thats what could bend the axles, warp the chassis etc....

However - maybe thats what I like about Ninco cars... each has its own characteristics and are great to race and run.... Give me the choise between a Fly and a Ninco... I'd pick the Ninco.....

One mans thoughts....

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good discussion here Im learning lots.

So if I can move my cars axel assembly (including wheels) by holding the tyres
on each side of the car by thumb and finger then it is sloppy? They should not
be able to move??? All mine have this movement.

I find all my cars jump out of the slot and do roll overs or flips if I take
a corner too fast, and sometimes if I accelerate to fast out of a corner the
car fishtails and sometimes deslots.

Also, how do you tell if your tyres are not true, and how do you fix them? Im assuming
you hold the guide on the track but lift the rear of the car up and put sandpaper
underneath and then lower the spinning tyres onto it?

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Larsson, I have obtained a rather large variety of cars in the short time I have been in the hobby. I have been liquidating a large number of diecasts and transfering to slots. Diecast cars now seem boring compared to cars you can really race! I have a few rallys; SCX, Ninco, Cartrix, some LMPs; Ninco, Scaly, SCX, Fly, some GTs; Fly, Ninco, Scaly, Proslot, some Vintage; Fly, Ninco, Carrera, Monogram, MRRC, Pink Kar, some F1, IRL, trucks, Hmmmm....I think I may need

CoolScientist, I like your name, but your Avitar keeps hypnotizing me!?

Redfiat, a small amount of play is good, but removing excess movement is another, almost standard tuning job. Also, if the cars don't crash when you go too fast, it would be kind of boring, huh? I find fun in tuning the cars to make the point at which they crash a bit faster. This is also why I run almost all of my cars without magnets, otherwise the crashes are severe. I true tires by putting the car backwards on the track and lowering onto a piece of sandpaper (150-200 grit) for about 10-15 seconds at a time. Although this doesn't work with the SCX Dome, must have some kind of diode or?
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QUOTE CoolScientist, I like your name, but your Avitar keeps hypnotizing me!?

Point taken....
Ill change it as soon as I have something more suitable...

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"Although this doesn't work with the SCX Dome, must have some kind of diode or?"

the Judd does have some kind of diode or resistor or some sort on the brass "wiring" inside. Mine popped the other night and I removed it. Now it can go backwards. I don't know if it will damage the motor or not.
It is always worth gluing the tyres to the rims with some superglue and the rims to the axles (again with superglue - don't let any glue get in the bushings) and then truing the whole lot. Prefreably glue the rims on, true the rims, and then glue the tyres and finally true the whole lot. Reversing on to sandpaper but not too much pressure. Also round the inner and outer edges of the tyres a tad - should stop some sudden tipping.

However the main reason for hopping esp in cars with strong motors e.g most nincos, is the movement between motor and rear axle. Take the body off and glue the motor in good and proper - don't use hot glue as if you use the car for a prolonged time the motor heats up and softens the glue. Use superglue or araldite 5mn epoxy glue (both strong but the latter is easier to remove if needed). Even if you have glued it check there is no movement.

I was doing really well with a Spirt Reynard, in its 3rd heat it started jumping all over the place - after a fraught 5 min pitstop it turned out the glue bond on one side of the motor had broken creating a slight movement - on hard acceleration the car bounced like a space hopper. A sploge of glue and once again a super smooth car - however too late to save my race night!

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