[Rich T UK]

Got back from holiday last night to find a package was waiting for me at the post office- picked it up this afternoon.

haven't had a chance to check fit on stuff yet, but one thing already is worrying me a little- the body posts are solid- so i'll need to drill them. what's the right size for Fly screws to go into so they can tap the thread?

 

[Scott B]

Mine arrived t'other day also. I have similar concerns, but I guess you got no answer Rich, unless someone e-mailed you.

Scott

 

[Dennis David]

Take a look at this if things go wrong.
Reinforcing Body Mount Posts With Tubing

 

[Tropi]

I was hoping that someone with direct experience would respond on this and they still might, of course.

In the meantime, get out your pack of smallest drill bits and, one at a time, hold up a drill bit, side by side with the screw, for comparison. You need a pilot hole that is a smaller diameter than the the outer edge of the screw's thread and larger than the solid shaft of the screw. This will enable the screw thread to bite into the plastic without its solid shaft breaking the post apart. If in any doubt at all, choose a drill bit that is slightly too small, as you can easily drill out a little more but it is harder to rebuild the post if too much is drilled out.

If you do mess up, Dennis's link is the place to go and it's a good idea to reinforce any post BEFORE screwing into it.

I'll check this subject out more thoroughly this evening if no one has added to it.

 

[NASCARMAN]

Hi Rich,

I have drilled 1mm holes. Then I used a new screw to make the threads. One small drop of oil to the screw thread and then I started to make thread. Tighten gently and when it feels tight loosen it up and tighten again. Repeat this untill you have reached proper depth.

 

[Rich T UK]

cheers. I've still not drilled the holes, but i've done most of the rest of it- there's a fair amount of cutting and trimming needed to get the thing on the chassis. the body posts are too long, and the front end doesn't match up. the interior's needed some fairly severe hacking about, as well. and the front wheelarches need shaving at the back of the light housings.

now I'm using a C47 for a donor car, so this might be why some bits have been difficult.

I'll admit i'm new to this side of the hobby, but from the 'hints" on their website, I wasn't expecting the knife to be getting this much use.

It is gorgeous, though. the paint finish is really good, and with the transfers on, it really looks the part.

also- anyone know what colour the driver's helmet should be? (i want it, naturally, to be the driver who ended the race (I think it was hermann))

 

[550rs]

Hi Rich,
Have you got any further with this, and if so, any tips or advice you can offer? The kits have just arrived in Australia and the web photos look fantastic.
Thanks
Glenn

 

[Rich T UK]

Advice...

Ok, here's the short list of things you'll need to do that aren't detailed on the protoslot website.

1. tear down your "donor" 908. use a flunder, long or short tail.

2. on the chassis pan, you'll need to cut most of the front edge back a couple of mm. the stiffening ribs that run almost all the way forward will have to be cut right down.

3. on the resin body, you'll need to trim the front and rear body posts a couple of mm. you can pierce the oil cooler air inlet very easily, and it looks good if you glue the front grille from the donor car there. the outlet on the bonnet will rimming from inside so it doesn't foul the top of the wires, as this point is right on top of the guide. you'll need a drill to drill some screwholes. I've not done this yet, but I'm planning on "tacking" the chassis in place with a small spot of superglue, then drilling.

4: the headlight glasses off the fly donor will need a lot of reshaping to get them to fit right. I didn't quite manage it.

5: it's a pain getting the tail end of the rear window to sit right in it's little spot.

6: as well as the holes it shows you to cut in the "interior/mechanicals" component, you'll need to cut off quite a lot on the corners of the bulkhead behind the driver, otherwise the body won't fit over it.

7: if you buy the painted kit, you'll still need to have some gloss white paint- the body has an extra part that forms the underside of the tail, and that's unpainted.

there's also no real location for the interior or the dashboard so you have to do it by eye a bit. this can be extra-tricky when you're trying to get the whole thing together.