Proto-Slot 908 LH transkit- it's arrived...

1918 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Rich T UK, Oct 13, 2003

Rich T UK

Discussion Starter · Sep 29, 2003 (Edited by Moderator)

Got back from holiday last night to find a package was waiting for me at the post office- picked it up this afternoon.

haven't had a chance to check fit on stuff yet, but one thing already is worrying me a little- the body posts are solid- so i'll need to drill them. what's the right size for Fly screws to go into so they can tap the thread?

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Rich T UK

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 4, 2003

cheers. I've still not drilled the holes, but i've done most of the rest of it- there's a fair amount of cutting and trimming needed to get the thing on the chassis. the body posts are too long, and the front end doesn't match up. the interior's needed some fairly severe hacking about, as well. and the front wheelarches need shaving at the back of the light housings.

now I'm using a C47 for a donor car, so this might be why some bits have been difficult.

I'll admit i'm new to this side of the hobby, but from the 'hints" on their website, I wasn't expecting the knife to be getting this much use.

It is gorgeous, though. the paint finish is really good, and with the transfers on, it really looks the part.

also- anyone know what colour the driver's helmet should be? (i want it, naturally, to be the driver who ended the race (I think it was hermann))

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Rich T UK

Discussion Starter · #8 · Oct 13, 2003

Advice...

Ok, here's the short list of things you'll need to do that aren't detailed on the protoslot website.

1. tear down your "donor" 908. use a flunder, long or short tail.

2. on the chassis pan, you'll need to cut most of the front edge back a couple of mm. the stiffening ribs that run almost all the way forward will have to be cut right down.

3. on the resin body, you'll need to trim the front and rear body posts a couple of mm. you can pierce the oil cooler air inlet very easily, and it looks good if you glue the front grille from the donor car there. the outlet on the bonnet will rimming from inside so it doesn't foul the top of the wires, as this point is right on top of the guide. you'll need a drill to drill some screwholes. I've not done this yet, but I'm planning on "tacking" the chassis in place with a small spot of superglue, then drilling.

4: the headlight glasses off the fly donor will need a lot of reshaping to get them to fit right. I didn't quite manage it.

5: it's a pain getting the tail end of the rear window to sit right in it's little spot.

6: as well as the holes it shows you to cut in the "interior/mechanicals" component, you'll need to cut off quite a lot on the corners of the bulkhead behind the driver, otherwise the body won't fit over it.

7: if you buy the painted kit, you'll still need to have some gloss white paint- the body has an extra part that forms the underside of the tail, and that's unpainted.

there's also no real location for the interior or the dashboard so you have to do it by eye a bit. this can be extra-tricky when you're trying to get the whole thing together.

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