I thought I'd put a quick post up about how I go about setting the Scalextric V8 Supercars for club competition.
Firstly Ford or Holden?????
No it isn't a joke! I have found the Holden Commodore consistently quicker around our layout than the AU Falcon. The difference is only one or two tenths of a second, very insignificant, but still there never the less. I don't know why this is, and I really don't want to hazard a guess, it isn't worth the time to think about. Besides, son Jake and I are mad keen Ford fans, so make ours a PIRTEK or DJR anytime!!
THE FRONT END
First up, bits to remove, the guide return spring, and the ''brace'' that's fastened by two philips head screws over the guide assembly.
I feel that the removal of the ''brace'' gives the chassis a little more flex, which seemed to help on track performance during testing. Again only by a tenth or two, but the model did seem to ''hook up'' better coming out of corners.
Now as Phil mentioned in his post, ''Guide Pop'' is something that needs attention with these models. You can lose a lot of valuable time during a race, particularly if track marshalls are not well versed about the problem.
My approach to fixing the problem is a little different to Phil's, I gently bent the two silver contacts that protrude through the chassis and rest on the pick up braid, thereby reducing contact tension. This is achieved with needle nosed pliers, when correctly ''set'' the silver contacts should have a slight curve in them. Test run the model to make sure that you have achieved a constant connection, best to err on the side of ''safety'', remember you're building an ''endurance'' racer!!!
Final mod for the front end is to check for wheel and tyre concentricity, remove wheels from axle (be gentle, scalextric has done a great job in keeping them on!), chuck wheels in a dremel tool, sand to taste ( the wheels I've seen are pretty good in this regard). Follow up with tyres, again be careful, it is possible to sand a ''flat spot'' into them, generally I just give them a light ''clean up''.
Re-assemble, check sideways axle ''slop'', I run between .020'' and .025'' on these (and most models), don't get too retentive about this measurement, I set them up by eye and feel. You need a little movement, but any more is wasted movement. After checking this measurement, sand off any excess on the axle with a sand stone in the dremel tool. You can also shim, but I feel the loss in track is negligible. Finally, use Superglue to re-fasten wheels on to axle.
N.B. forgot to mention to trim a little off the back of the guide, a couple of mm. This helps in negotiating the tight radius turns on our layout......
THE REAR END (Now, now.....)
Remove wheels and tyres, true as per ''fron't end''. Check sideways axle ''slop'', slightly tighter tolerence than when setting up front end, aim for a maximum sideways play of .020'', sounds a lot, but isn't really when you check with a set of feeler gauges. Re-assemble, glue with superglue. Also glue rear axle bearings in with superglue.
Run in gears with car polish at low revs for a few minutes, be sure to oil prior to this (keeps polish out of bearing surfaces). Once finished with the gears, clean with CRC contact cleaner (the BEST cleaner for this sort of thing), re-lube, re-assemble and take the finished product for a spin!!!
BUT.....before you do, it's best to get a little more ''grip'' from the Scalextric rear rubber by running them over some rough grade sandpaper ''On track''. I have found that the tyres lose grip over many laps, so it's good to ''freshen'' them up with another ''rough up'' every so often. During the ''Bathurst Bash'' I'd give them a dose of sandpaper every two heats (30 minutes) running time.
Very basic, but these ''tweaks'' WILL provide you with a better performing ''stock'' car. I haven't messed about with them other than mentioned above.
I hope that our new QUEENSLAND
based 1/32 racing association, Q32
can organize a number of races for these fantastic models at various Q32
member tracks for the 2004 season.
P.S. Phil, we had a practice today for next weekends trophy meet in Brisbane. This no ''trainer wheels'' (magnets) racing is a little hard to come to grips with (pun intended)!!! Jake gave it up as a bad joke, but Bill went OK, being the quickest of a bad, bad bunch.
It seems like it's our turn to be the ''sacrificial lambs'' for next weekends racing, please be ''gentle'' with us............
MILLENNIUM RACEWAY Slot Racing at Darling Downs, Q.