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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I read with interest the post by Wixwacing (an excellent read
) under the SCX Merc thread in "cars" and was wondering if anyone had any tips on setting up the Aussie Holden/Ford V8's. I've started to tinker with mine and glued a button magnet near the guide to begin with. The idea of independant front wheels will be explored.

I was wondering about lead placement to counteract the high centre of gravity.

With the range of Supercar decal sets available from Pattos, I'd love to get a hold of some "white" body shells (or complete cars).
 

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You may be confusing your Scalextric V8 Tourers with your Pattos Oz V8 Tourers. Both great cars but different theories for set up and race prep.

But here are the Scalextric ones.

Dont mess too much with weights or magnets. The Oz Scalextric boys are pretty quick in any Scalextric car and you can pretty much just hand them one and they'll be quick. I expect there are Scalextric veterans all over the world the same.
Leave the magnet in the rear for Scalextric track racing, it will allow you to sneak up the inside and quickly get the power down and hassle the bloke in the next lane when racing on a tight circuit.





The magnets are probably strong enough!

The weight thing is kinda a wing car thing. Womp doctors come in a bring a car thats had more work done on it than Joan Collins and although its quicker than everyone else, if no one else is doing it, your pretty much going to be racing by yourself when the track is free during heats of the main event. Practise without weight first, board track or not, you'll need to race well with a standard configuration.



The front ends seem fine to me in regards a guide blade bouncing out so no weight going in any of these. They have stuck in around my track lap after lap. Again, practice until your can almost race them blindfolded. Skill is sometimes nothing more than honed practise, but if your ordinary, you'll always be ordinary. But heck, its only toy cars.
 

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With the scalex guides, I found the cars are less likely to tip if the front "wall" piece at the top front of the guide is snipped right off. As supplied, this wall restricts the car's ability to slide. I leave the self-centring springs in. I run the cars without magnets and the guide modification transformations the handling on my track. The downside is you can spin the car so that the braids lose contact with the metal contact strips, whereas before it would have tipped out.
Loosen the body screws. Check that the body is free to move - a bit of sandpaper between the chassis and body to sand the chassis edges works.
Lastly remember to round the edges of the tyres when you true them, this also helps to slide rather than tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK. Thanks. I did mean the Scalex V8's not the Pattos ones (or the Ozrace kit). I'm happy with the magnetic downforce but I added a Scaley button near the guide as I was getting front end hop on really tight corners (I use a few inner curves around the 4 lane track). The V8's are fractionally lighter than the Scaley GT40 but comparing the wheelbase to track ratio I think this makes them tend towards something like understeer. Independantly rotating front wheels may solve that.

I have trimmed down the leading edge of the guide but not totally removed. I will experiment some more. I will be setting the body a little lower on the chassis too.

I just love that playing with these toys goes beyond running around the track


PS:One puzzling thing, all the cars came with two spare guides but they aren't the ones fitted to the car they are the long shaft black jobbies and don't have the "x" top for the self centreing spring. I though it was odd when the first car came with the wrong replacement guides but.....
 

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I have no experience with these particular cars but my thoughts on the self-centering guides in general are that they work fine until the first dislodgement in a crash. Once displaced, they really aren't worth the bother of trying to reset with the spring and it's probably better to just remove the spring altogether.
 

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Sidecar Steve. I have fitted a slotit chassis to my Pirtek Falcon and lowered the car considerably as I thought it sat too high. I also pumped the guards a touch as one side appeared to have no lip on them and I wanted it to be as close in track to the Commodore as possible. I will not test it until I can get a slotit rear axle and a few other bits and pieces to have it running. I will post some pics soon. It may be a bit more labour intensive and expensive than you are looking for but I have around 60% scaley classic which is old and bumpy in sections so they tend to be a touch erratic to drive if left standard. I also like a sliding car so like a different magnet position than standard Scaelextric offer.

Vince
 

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Hi Steve,
Not had too much experience with these as yet but me and a compadre where drawn like lambs to a sacrifice over a couple of V8s.
We accepted a gracious invitation to compete in a Bathurst bash a couple of months ago. The event was on a quite impressive Scaley sport circuit, with one humungous straight and a lot of drivable sections. We raced 4 x 1/4 hour spots each over the day and my friend and I raced a commodore. We practiced what we thought was sufficient and then rested for the main event. That's when potential disaster nearly struck. During practice the car was not driven anywhere near the limit it was to be raced at. Consequently two huge problems were not seen. Firstly, the cars DO NOT like the inside lane of scalex inner curves ! Driven at less than a tail slide speed, they will stick in the corner and wedge 'til a marshall spots you. Secondly, approaching and entering any medium bend at speed where the rear of the car may flick out will cause the guide shoe to pop out or become displaced in the least.
We lost a lot of time firstly realising and understanding these problems and secondly we had to quickly mod the car between heats.
The car sticks in the inners because, as mentioned in an earlier post the guide hits the stops and tries to slew the entire car sideways to get round the bend. Our fix for this problem was a couple of hasty slices into the underbody work to give the guide more movement side to side. A neater job would be to use a small modellers rat tail file to increase the space the guide has to turn in. Great, problem one fixed, Next couple of heats, guide pops out partially or fully on a hard corner approach. Solution. Took off the shell and removed the self centring mechanism. Wedged a small length of old braid (first thing that came to hand) in the slot in the top of the guide. This prevented the guide end from closing up and therefore prevented the guide from moving in its tube.
Compadre and self raced on to gain second place .

We found the cars had enough grip and an extra bit of driving discipline did the rest. In one of the latter legs I raced I deslotted probably only a couple of times in the full 15 minutes.

All in all a great day at a great venue with good hosts Rob and Chris Wessling at Millenium Raceways Toowoomba Queensland. We look forward to Rob racing down here on the floodplains soon.

Moral of the story , don't spend valuable practice time on a strange track admiring the scenery!!

Wixwacing
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all.

Vinno1: So, now you've got me interested, when do we see pics?


Wixwacing: The problem you described with the jamming in inner curves and ripping out the guide all happen to me. My home track is a 4 lane built from Scaley classic and SCX track. It measures just shy of 30 metres in each lane and has a number of the Scaley inner curves in both chicanes and reducing radius corners. I actually found if you get a pair of pliers and bend the male "connectors on the track slightly to fit with the radius (or direction if it is a switchback chicane) that opens up the slot width a little. However the V8's seem to be different and I'm gunna attack 'em with a file and open up the guide arc. Thanks for the tip.
I solved the front end hop with an additional button magnet.

Mecoprop: i have now junked the self centreing thingy and put a small wedge in the top of the guide post. Couldn't figure out how to reset the thing anyway...


550rs: I didn't think to take the edge off the tyres. Done it now and it does make a difference.



Steve
 

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G'day Guys,

I thought I'd put a quick post up about how I go about setting the Scalextric V8 Supercars for club competition.

Firstly Ford or Holden?????

No it isn't a joke! I have found the Holden Commodore consistently quicker around our layout than the AU Falcon. The difference is only one or two tenths of a second, very insignificant, but still there never the less. I don't know why this is, and I really don't want to hazard a guess, it isn't worth the time to think about. Besides, son Jake and I are mad keen Ford fans, so make ours a PIRTEK or DJR anytime!!

THE FRONT END

First up, bits to remove, the guide return spring, and the ''brace'' that's fastened by two philips head screws over the guide assembly.

I feel that the removal of the ''brace'' gives the chassis a little more flex, which seemed to help on track performance during testing. Again only by a tenth or two, but the model did seem to ''hook up'' better coming out of corners.

Now as Phil mentioned in his post, ''Guide Pop'' is something that needs attention with these models. You can lose a lot of valuable time during a race, particularly if track marshalls are not well versed about the problem.

My approach to fixing the problem is a little different to Phil's, I gently bent the two silver contacts that protrude through the chassis and rest on the pick up braid, thereby reducing contact tension. This is achieved with needle nosed pliers, when correctly ''set'' the silver contacts should have a slight curve in them. Test run the model to make sure that you have achieved a constant connection, best to err on the side of ''safety'', remember you're building an ''endurance'' racer!!!

Final mod for the front end is to check for wheel and tyre concentricity, remove wheels from axle (be gentle, scalextric has done a great job in keeping them on!), chuck wheels in a dremel tool, sand to taste ( the wheels I've seen are pretty good in this regard). Follow up with tyres, again be careful, it is possible to sand a ''flat spot'' into them, generally I just give them a light ''clean up''.

Re-assemble, check sideways axle ''slop'', I run between .020'' and .025'' on these (and most models), don't get too retentive about this measurement, I set them up by eye and feel. You need a little movement, but any more is wasted movement. After checking this measurement, sand off any excess on the axle with a sand stone in the dremel tool. You can also shim, but I feel the loss in track is negligible. Finally, use Superglue to re-fasten wheels on to axle.

N.B. forgot to mention to trim a little off the back of the guide, a couple of mm. This helps in negotiating the tight radius turns on our layout......

THE REAR END (Now, now.....)

Remove wheels and tyres, true as per ''fron't end''. Check sideways axle ''slop'', slightly tighter tolerence than when setting up front end, aim for a maximum sideways play of .020'', sounds a lot, but isn't really when you check with a set of feeler gauges. Re-assemble, glue with superglue. Also glue rear axle bearings in with superglue.

Run in gears with car polish at low revs for a few minutes, be sure to oil prior to this (keeps polish out of bearing surfaces). Once finished with the gears, clean with CRC contact cleaner (the BEST cleaner for this sort of thing), re-lube, re-assemble and take the finished product for a spin!!!

BUT.....before you do, it's best to get a little more ''grip'' from the Scalextric rear rubber by running them over some rough grade sandpaper ''On track''. I have found that the tyres lose grip over many laps, so it's good to ''freshen'' them up with another ''rough up'' every so often. During the ''Bathurst Bash'' I'd give them a dose of sandpaper every two heats (30 minutes) running time.

Very basic, but these ''tweaks'' WILL provide you with a better performing ''stock'' car. I haven't messed about with them other than mentioned above.

I hope that our new QUEENSLAND based 1/32 racing association, Q32 can organize a number of races for these fantastic models at various Q32 member tracks for the 2004 season.

P.S. Phil, we had a practice today for next weekends trophy meet in Brisbane. This no ''trainer wheels'' (magnets) racing is a little hard to come to grips with (pun intended)!!! Jake gave it up as a bad joke, but Bill went OK, being the quickest of a bad, bad bunch.

It seems like it's our turn to be the ''sacrificial lambs'' for next weekends racing, please be ''gentle'' with us............

Best Wishes,

Rob.

MILLENNIUM RACEWAY Slot Racing at Darling Downs, Q.
 

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G'day Guys,

Forgot to mention about rear wheel rubbing on the Scalextric Holden Commodore's. The one we used for the ''Bathurst Bash'' had a rear guard that rubbed slightly on one rear tyre. I don't know if this is a common fault with them, I just checked our new Valvoline car and it was fine.

This minor problem was solved by getting a cylinder sanding attachment for the dremel and carefully sanding a new radius into the body.

MILLENNIUM RACEWAY Slot Racing at Darling Downs, Q.
 

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As promised these are the shots of The Pirtek Falcon I modified with a Slotit chassis. The first shot from above shows the guards I pumped slightly due to the uneven widths and trying to get a bit more track from the car to even it up with the commodore.



This shows the underside of the car with chassis in place. I am testing with an NC1 motor at present as I like to run with no magnet on these cars. The front tyres are non standard as I needed something with a lower profile to stop the tyres from lifting the guide and causing de-slotting. I will put on different front tyres when I am happy with the handling. I used the four tabs supplied with the chassis to mount to the body. For comparison sake it is about 6 tenths of a second faster than the Commodore around my 25 metre track. The commodore is weighted down to make it more stable. Before the mod the Falcon was as Bob has said about two tenths slower.



Here is a direct comparison to the Commodore. The picture speaks for itself. The car is now very similar to drive to the Ninco C Klasse touring car I have. It slides nicely through the corners and is generally more predictable and fun. Now just a tidy up and Slotit axles to complete.



A comparison to the guards on a 1:1 version. Sorry about the dirt it is usually spotless. We have had a lot of rain recently.
I hope this post works. My son Jake set it up for me. Yes Bob another Ford fan with a son named Jake.

Vince
 

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G'day Vince,

I get where you are at with the guards, didn't really notice it at first, but the 1:1 photo picks it up really well (Mmmmm Blue, Galaxy or Narooma?).

I tell you what, that Pirtek of yours has got the right stance, that's for sure!

Now Vince, have you picked up a DJR Ford yet? I know Dickie's not everyone's favourite, but it IS an extremely well finished model (Harry Wise reckons it's the best Tampo printing he's seen on a 1/32 model).

Best Wishes,

Rob Wessling.

MILLENNIUM RACEWAY Slot Racing at Darling Downs, Q.
 

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Hi Bob

My 1:1 car is Narooma Blue. It's actually a series 3 XR6 VCT. I bought it as a demo with 3000km on it in March 2002.

As far as the DJR car goes I didn't get one yet. Dick is actually my favourite driver from the Aussie race scene along with Alan Moffat as Moffat was the one who got me interested in Fords in the first place. I loved that Boss 302 Mustang of his. Will have to get a white version of the Scalextric car and some Patto's decals to build Moffats car up.

Steve I hope the pics have given you some more ideas. Or maybe you can try Bobs tips. I will be trying them on the Commodore before I modify it. Might save me buying a Slotit chassis.

I have been collecting up all the Slotit cars I can along with the Ninco Indy car, formula 1's and Carrera Nascars so I could only justify the one Scalextric Falcon and one Commodore. Also the people I drive with don't have any so it was a waste to buy more.

Anyway it's Friday night and my son is wanting me to hurry up so we can go out to my mates and race. I am going to try out my new no 9 Slotit Audi with the new flexi chassis.

Vince
 

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G'day Vince,

Narooma is a nice colur, that one had just come out when we got our AU2 (SR auto sedan, would have loved to get the XR and VCT though......), ended up ordering a ''Winter White'' one.

The Scaley DJR car is very nicely done, excellent Tampo printing, a real eye catcher! Son Jake is getting this one as part of his Christmas present this year, I'm thinking of getting another for me though, it is a pretty special slot car.

Hey Vince, we've just kicked off an Aussie Ezboard for 1/32 slots. 550rs and WixRacing have already popped by to check it out (as well as some of the HRW guys), if you want to stop by, you'll be most welcome. The link is below:

Queensland Slot Car Racing Forum

It's an informal affair, basically we (Q32) wanted a place where we could post latest happenings, etc. We won't be ''encroaching'' on HRW, SLOTFORUM, etc, as most of the guys that use the site are regulars on all the popular boards anyway.

Best Wishes,

Rob Wessling.

MILLENNIUM RACEWAY Slot Racing at Darling Downs, Q.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

Nice job Vinno! I like that "in the weeds" look. So much more like the real thing. At present I'm performing surgery on the body posts to lower mine.

With all the mods above (especially getting rid of the self centering guide stuff) they are running quicker.

Question, how did you pump ot the guards?


Steve
 

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Hi Steve

I held a lighter under the inside of the guard for a few seconds to heat up the inner lip and then pressed it out with my finger. I did only a small amount at a time so as not to burn it. Make sure you don't heat it till the plastic melts and don't let the flame touch the plastic as it can bubble up through to the outside and make a mess of the tampo printing and the plastic. If you have an old car or old plastic model it may be a good idea to practice first. It is obviously quite hot so if you don't have tradesmans fingers you may look at using something else to press it out. You just get a better feel when you use your fingers. And haven't we all heard that before.

Thanks Bob I will check out the link to the forum you mentioned in the next day or so.

Vince
 

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If yous want to mould guards or any thing plastic (I've wrecked things with a lighter) I've found the best way to move plastics around is a hair dryier, because it heats things up a bit slower, just put some pressure on what you want to move and put a hair dryier on it untill you get it soft enough to move it slightly, I've found it much safer, because if you go to far, you can put the dryier back on it and move it back untill desired, and if you do it slow enough you'll have no damage at all.
 

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The hairdryer is undoubtedly safer but, with such a wide area of airflow, is not as precise and you COULD end up with a really mis-shapen body.
It could even distort the car's bod too!
Worth experimenting with alternatives including a candle in a nice stable candleholder which frees up both hands.
Find what suits you best.
All good tips!
 

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Yeah that's very posible but I suppose what sort of nozle you've go on your hair dryier, but everyone is different and have their own ideas so do what ever work for yourself
 

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What a good idea for a Christmas present for the wife, a new hair dryer with a fine nozzle. Thanks guys, problem solved for another year.
 
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