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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, if you've see Rally in a shed (click here to read) you will know that I've been trying to design a rally circuit in a small area (5' x 3' base plus raised back and sides). Having tried out about 6 or 7 different layouts it became obvious that trying to use 1/32nd plastic track in this space was not going to work. Also the raised rails of the Ninco track caused problems as some of my cars bottomed out at the top of climbs, my Revell Mk1 Cortina and SCX Mini being the main problem, you can see this in some of the videos. (The SCX mini would not even run on the Ninco track until the magnet was removed as it was so close to the rails).

So I needed to find a solution and a routed track would be the best answer. However having just got back in to slot cars I did not want to go this route yet as I'm sure any track I design will have faults and problems and need changes made to it to make it work and flow.

Then I had a brain wave (this is normally quite dangerous as it involves lots of steam coming from the ears and the very loud sound of well warn cogs grinding) while I was running the SCX Mini on my Carrera Go track. I don't need a full width 1/32 scale track as the full circuit will be run as a single lane, either with a turning loop at each end or a single crossover so I run on both lanes. I will be the only person using the track with a single car in use so in theory the lanes can be close together, I could build the whole circuit out of chicane peices and it would'nt effect my use of it.

I tried some of my other cars on the Carrera track and the only "problems" I found were that the straights need to be slightly wider and you need a good size border area on the outside of the corners and a small border on the inside. So I layed out a test track in the shed, the Carrera track I have only has 90 deg bends so the layout was restriced but I got about 7mtrs of track layed on the 5x3 baseboard and was able to try a few things out.

I made a border area on the outside of a 180 bend and tried various barriers on other bends, Ninco, Scalextric and SCX and the Carrera Go things. In all cases the barrier clips caused a problem on the inside of bends and wider cars got court on the inner barriers. On the outside of the bends most of the barriers worked but the SCX was best (the type I have is long and quite rigid). This did prove however that track would need a border of some sort all round. The border area I made worked fine.

So the idea now is to design a circuit with 1/43 scale track and widen as required via the scenery. I decided that I needed a track with 45 deg bends and probably something cheap that I would also be happy to cut about and glue together (for single lane turning loops filling gaps or making peices meet) so I look at Artin track. However there does'nt seem to be a lot of Artin track about in the UK until i realised that Woolworth used to sell it and so do Argos as Chad Valley R-ace and Argo used to call it Mega Slot before they owned Chad Valley. So I've purchased 2 lots of Chad Valley (Both with cars) a large set of Mega slot and some Artin. this is all very cheap, postage being more than the track. the large Mega Slot set was 99p. Still waiting for most of it to arrive (good old second class Royal mail parcel post) so I can't start designing yet till I know what track I've got. The Chad Valley is definatly Artin as the instruction leaflet says Chad Valley on the front and Artin inside.

As I said in part 1 I intend to paint the track so the finish of the track is not important and all those yellow markings you see on Artin track will disappear under the paint. I still intend to run on 2 levels and possibly cut some track to have some single lane sections and I should be able to get a fair amount of track in a fun a usable layout.

As soon as all the track has arrived I will post some layouts with photos and vids.

Sorry this has been so long and if you have stuck with it to here then thanks for reading.

If anyone has any thoughts or comments please feel free.

thanks
Beardy56
 

· Greg Gaub
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Beardy, routed tracks are really easy, and single laners are EVEN EASIER. Check out my SLOP (Super Little Open Proxy) track:

That's a 4x2' "patch panel" of MDF. you can get them that size, or do what I did and buy a 4x8' sheet and have the store cut it into 4 2' wide strips. I've built one test track before that one, and now that one. My next one will be designed for digital, so I can practice installing a flipper into a wood track.

If you google search for "slop tracks" you'll get a lot of examples of other tracks like this. They really are SUPER easy. I didn't even use a guide for mine, I just kept constant and even force on the router as I followed a line I drew onto the MDF. It helps to have a helper to hold the vacuum right at the router, if you don't have/get a router that has a vacuum attachment. Putting the copper tape on is easy too, and wiring power is also quite simple, especially if you're hacking up a plastic track power piece to do it.

For your purposes, I would just quit on the plastic right now. It's not worth the limitations and trouble you're getting yourself into, especially for a single lane rally in such a tight space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi MrFlippant
The problem is not routing the track, I only got back into slot cars over Xmas having been out for some 36 years. Before this I last raced 1/32 and 1/24 in the early 70's.
If I was doing an out and out race track on a bigger board I would go for routed no problem but as I want a road/rally track and don't know whats going to work or not work I need to experiment and try different layouts till one clicks. So at the moment plastic is the best option, then may be in a year or so I will go down the routed route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Lloyd,
Thanks for the offer will keep iy in mind but seeing what turned up today I think I might have overdone it anyway. Also the basic Chad Valley figure 8 sets are available for about £10 inc postage and I get 2 cars that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anyway todays developments

Had a delivery of track -
With todays delivery I thought I was getting one set (Turned out to be Drifting Express) but infact it appears to be two sets. This is what I received:

11 x straights (1 of which is broken)
1 x half straight
44 x R1 curves (some with yellow bands)
4 x R2 curves
1 x Chicane (3 pieces of track)
2 x power connector straights
1 x lap counter
1 x drift bend set (4 bends which I think are R1 but with an extra unpowered slot)
1 x hump back section (2 short up curves and the hump, which is broken)
2 x power units
4 x controllers
lots of bridge supports

(This little lot cost all of £10.99 inc postage, 99p auction win, and it cost the guy £10.43 to post - now that is ebay madness!!)

I've also got a basic figure of 8 set, 12 x R1 curves and 4 x straights.
also got the following Artin track coming (by the weekend hopefully):
7 x straights, 1 x lapcounter, 2 x crossover straights, 8 x curves plus power unit and 2 more controllers and other bits.
And if it ever arrives a twister chase set with 2 cars (Mini and Ferrari bodies)- this has been in the post since easter!

Went for the artin set as I wanted the crossover pieces, I will need one if I don't make turning loops for each end and if I do I might try to make a double turning loop at each end.

If I can get one cheap enough i'm thinking of getting a set with a crossover in it as i have an idea how to use one of these.

All being well I will get to lay some track on Sunday around the F1. Won't get to watch the qually till Sunday morning and then with the race that's 5 hours or so of Sunday gone. Not getting alot for free time at the moment but will try to find time tomorrow to have a go a designing a layout or two for the base board.
Oh to have a simple hobby like collecting beer mats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just a small update,received some more track so to the above list I can add
8 x R1 curves
7 x straights
2 x Crossover straights
1 x Power straight
1 x Lap counter
plus power supply and 2 controllers

So now it's time to start designing
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok time to thinks about layouts.
Those who read part 1 will know that my original Ninco layout was going to be on 2 or 3 levels with a Rally Loop at each end. From the base board the track climbed up on the left then went along the back and around the right hand side. From here the idea was to rise again on the right and travel along the back to the 2nd rally loop. For the moment using the Artin track I am staying on the baseboard with an extension piece on each side. No loops the track is continuous with a single crossover peice so a single lap is twice around just over 19mtrs.



Going from the power conector straight (middle right) [gravel] and clockwise (down) as you come out the 180 the track will slowly climb, level through 180 and then slow climb, leveling off after short straight [gravel turning to earth/mud]. Staying level the next straight will climb [tarmac], flat 90 and then climb to the chicane which will be level staying level until the top straight which will drop down to the base level [180 earth/mud leading to gravel by crossover]

All being well I will get to set the track up tomorrow with tempory supports and get to try it out. Hopefully it will work in both directions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi
Tracks laid out and tested and seems to be ok

over veiw of track


and closer




the left side



the right side




The layout seems to drive quite nice in an anticlockwise direction and hopefully will be ok clockwise. The elevation levels also seem ok. Most of my cars seem to like it although the Artin track has a lot less grip than the Ninco but as it's going to be painted the grip should hopfully improve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi,
Made a small change to the track layout :-



I've removed the straight and crossover from the return loop at the top right of the track and 2 curves as it comes back to the front straight. This has made room to insert 4 straights in to the middle loop section. This has removed the overlap at the end of the middle loop and made the track slightly longer at approx 19.5mtrs.

in the above drawing the black is tarmac, grey is gravel and brown is earth/mud, this is how i hope to paint the track. The idea is also to paint scenery roads going on to the right at the top right (track leaves road going on to mud track either field or forest section) and also scenery road going srtaight up at the top of middle loop where mud joins tarmac and going into tunnel or under bridge.

Looks like I'm going to have to solder some of the track joints as this layout does not quite join up and the track is losing contact in places.

Still playing with elevation levels but the lefthand straight is the highest point. The short straight at the bottom my or may not drop down, the track is the more or less level untill the 2 straight in the middle loop which both decend with the rest of the track more or less flat. I am trying to keep all the bends level if I can.

Will post pictures of revised layout soon as I can.

In the mean time here are some videos of the taken Sunday on the First layout

Carrera Go Mini Cooper
SCX Mini
Mk1 Cortina

All cars are running on the 6V Artin power pack.

Any comments or sugestions welcome
 

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Hi
here's a couple of photos of the changes to the layout




This leaves me with one problem, if you look at the diagram the road would appear to continue of the right at top and the same going straight on up and under the top straight from the centre loop.



However as show in the above photos at this point the lop and raising track at almost at the same level. So I have tried a small change to the level of the long straight which will leave me able to have a tunnel or bridge at the point still




This does however give quite a step climb which on the Artin track is to steep. so a question I have to ask to anyone who has used Plasticote paint is how much grip does it give?

A the weekend I hop to wireup my adjustable power supply to the track and the I will be able to test the track in a clockwise direction and then I will find out if the track works both ways, can you get down that big hill??

Thanks Lloyd, yes low budget so far plus will be able to run 1/32 and 1/43 scale cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Little update to whats been happening in the shed.
Not done a lot just decided to reduce the elevation height again at the back of the track as the climb on the righthand side was way to steep in the end. I had one car sliding back down the slope, now I'm not using Ninco track I can see what people mean about Autoart cars, just no grip. Also changed the elevation levels slightly on the left of the track.







Also had to lower the entry to the central loop so I can still have a tunnel or bridge for the false road to run to.

Also the Artin Drift curves have got to go (thats the loop on the left with the built in external kerb. This track has 2 extra unpowered slots with the entry controlled by the passing of the car (only works with a pin). As the car passes the entry point the guide pin moves a divider that next time round diverts the car to the unpowered slot and the closes the slot split. So the car alternates between the powered and unpowered slots, which is not what I require. Also you can't reverse track direction as all cars run straight into the unpowered slot. I tried removing the moving wedge and trimming the activating pins off but the is to loose. So it looks like I will keep the 2 middle curves and bin the entry and exit curves.

STOP PRESS

I've just got an early birthday present (I nearly bought this a week ago but the decided I did'nt need anymore track) - Chad Valley / Artin Crash Racers. Set comes with 2 Mini Coopers and a elongated figure eight with a crossover.
Looks like the layout will be changing as I want to build the crossover in somewhere. Just got to have a cross roads junction.
I know really sad but who cares.
 

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Ok latest update - 2 days in one here and I'd love some feedback on what people think of these 2 tracks compaired with the above.
Yesterday I got my early birthday present a Chad Valley (Artin) crash 'n Go set this is an elongated figure eight with a banked 180 and crossover section. So the idea was to try a layout with a crossroads junction in it.

So this is yesterdays try



The righthand loop has changed to get to the crossroad.


Then a simple oval back to the crossroad


No real changes on th climb


the lefthand loop has changed a bit


from here nothing else has changed and this gives an idea of the levels




This runs fine in ths direction but not so well in reverse.

Today

Ok tried moving the crossover to the middle of the baseboard



Righthand loop to crossroad changes


The crossroads


The central loop back to crossroad



The climb to the lefthand loop


Lefthand loop


From hear the only change is in the far right corner where the 'S' bend is now sharper


This is a bit dark but gives an idea of the elevations levels




This layout appears to run ok in both directions with all my cars

Ok so just how much track can I get on the baseboard. The old layouts without the crossrover were all about 19mtrs for a complete lap around both lanes. Yesterdays layout with crossover was about 19.5mtrs and todays layout is just under 20.5mtrs.

Would love some feedback on the last 3 layouts as which you prefer
Having driven all in both directions with all my cars I think I know which I prefer.

Sorry abouit the length of this post but a lot has happened and needed showing
 

· One petunia in a field of onions
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QUOTE (beardy56 @ 1 May 2012, 12:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Would love some feedback on the last 3 layouts as which you prefer
Having driven all in both directions with all my cars I think I know which I prefer.
I think you've got the question wrong. What does it matter what layout we prefer? The important thing is which one you prefer as you're the one who'll be driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Ember
Having driven all 3 I like them all, some work better in both direction than others. I'm 99% certain which one I'm going with and the decisson will be made this weekend, this is when weather permitting (rain, rain and more rain and we have a drought
) I will be cutting some plywood to support the track.
I just wanted to get some idea what the experts here thought
 

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QUOTE (beardy56 @ 30 Apr 2012, 19:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Lefthand loop

Beardy,
What kind of track is that on this picture? It seems to have extra slots (the middle one goes nowhere from what I can see) and the outer one is in the striped section and seems to connect at both ends.
Am I correct?
So what make/model of track is it and what is the purpose of it.... since there are only 2 lanes in your layout diagram.
Many thanks for sharing!

Cheers!
 
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