Slot Cars Forum banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In preparation for my round of the SCX Classic Rally Proxy series I've started a quick-build of a rally loop using the SCX Rally Chrono Pack and a combination of SCX, Scalextric Classic and Scalextric Sport track pieces. In other words the goal is to build a rally track as quick and easy as possible using what I found in my storage bin. After the tragic events we had here in Norway on Friday I also needed to clear my head, and spending some hours in the track room is mentally refreshing.

After pondering around with the layout in my favorite layout program (TrackPower) I found a basic layout that would fit the limited space on the narrow L-shaped table which is roughly 300 cm in one direction, 250 cm the other (10 x 8 feet) and about 80-100 cm wide. Thanks to the SCX Rally Chrono pack the lap length comes close to 100 feet since it use two loops to make both lanes into one continuous lane. Those who wonder what the Chrono Pack is can read a couple reviews here and here. To enhance the Rally Chrono I will wire it up to a variable voltage PSU and use my old Professor Motor Diode controller and wire it to add dynamic braking to the Chrono Pack (tested and working).

24th July: The layout sketch is ready after checking that I had all the track pieces. The upper back-straight and outer curve on the right side is Scalextric Sport while the rest of the track is a combo of SCX and Scalextric Classic.


25th July: After tearing down the old rally track and searching for track pieces, the track room looked rather chaotic



26th July: After an evening with cutting out 3mm MDF as track base and wood risers the layout is starting to taking shape.


The layout has been connected up and it works
There is a bit of voltage drop at the far end so 4-5 power taps will be added and rails cleaned up on the older track pieces. Elevation changes has been adjusted and the next steps are to fixate the risers and roadbed before adding power taps and get some depron (high density foam) sheets to make shoulders.

I'll post more as the track build progress...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,013 Posts
Good use of space.

Is this just to tune your proxy cars etc, or are you going for a full landscape job??
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Thanks.

It will get full landscape, but to have it ready and "run-in" for the upcoming event it will just get a basic landscape now. I will continue to have fun with detailed landscaping during the winter.
 

·
*** Leo A Capaldi ***
Joined
·
3,588 Posts
Excellent stuff Tore - still got the enthusiasm obviously !!



Kind regards, Leo
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Yes, it's when you have too much work or other obligations that the hobby is the first to suffer, but in vacations and in periods with more spare time it doesn't take long before the urge comes back


Here is another pic of the building chaos to show the limited space. This is actually a storage room with just enough space for a secondary track, the main track is in the room next by.



At the moment I've taken the track apart to adjust the roadbed and fixate it properly, should be back together again by the end of the evening.

Not to happy with the shape of the old backdrop though, but it's just printed on regular copy paper and glued on foam boards, so it's easy to replace later,

Tore
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Hi

I know there are some cars that don't trigger the reed switch in the SCX timer (typically Fly motors, sidewinders, etc) when not using magnets. I have some ideas I want to test out later to cure that, but for now I'm focusing on getting the track ready for the SCX Classic Rally proxy event, and all 32 cars have been raced on a Chrono timing system earlier in the proxy series so it should work OK. I do have both a PC based timing system and a Ninco light-bridge ready at hand if it should fail


To follow up on the "diary":

No progress pics to show for wednesday, but a lot of nasty track cleaning work has been finished. Scrubbed down about 60 track pieces with a stiff brush in soapy water, then rinsed in the bath tub and dried out in the sun on the terrace. Then I cleaned all connections with electrical cleaning spray and wire brush before crimping all 240+ connections with needle nose pliers. Tedious work, but managed to get it all done in one evening.

It feels good to know that it is done, and my 5yo son had lots of fun helping out with mom's kitchen scrub
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,545 Posts
356Speedster, your track looks like it's going to be really cool when it's finished Dude.


I never knew the Chrono pack existed until I saw this thread. Now it's gone straight to the top of my "want" list. All I have to do now is work-out how I'm going to fit a second layout in my attic.
I should have more than enough spare track, though.
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update for thursday:

Went shopping at the LSH and tile/construction store and spent the amount of a nice starter set on scenery stuff...
I'll get back to this later.

Then soldered some power taps, rally loop style:



WARNING: Do not wire power-taps like this on a regular track, this is only for rally loops where both lanes are connected into one continuous lane using two loops!

Then laid down a foam roadbed (3mm Depron) on top of the MDF. This has two main functions: Reduce track noise, and make a base to mount borders on so they will lock the track in place (see below for home made foam borders). But it also helps to cut down time spent on wood work with the base roadbed since it will even out rough transitions, and it's nice to just cut a channel in it with a knife to drag power tap cables under the track without having to drill through the MDF/table)



Then the track was mounted back up again and tested for continuity, and the cleaning and crimping was worth it, the track now have good voltage all around the 95 feet, and that's even before connecting up the power taps


I am now making foam borders:



The borders are easy to make, just stack 2-3 foam sheets (depending on thickness) and slide them under the track, then trace around the edges of the track with a sharp exacto knife and lift out the cut-out under the track. Then take out the new borders and mount them back one by one layer using small squares of double sided carpet tape between each sheet. The foam will take water based acrylic paints and lightweight drywall spackle without deforming.

As seen below the accuracy and clean cut when tracing with a new sharp knife is pretty good.


That's it for tonight, more progress tomorrow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,545 Posts
This is going to be the insipration for my rally track.
Thread subscription applied.

I've got a similar amount of space available, and a similar amount of long straights. The only difference is that I'll be using R1s and R3s as well as R2s, and I want to try to get some undulations in somehow. I'll be doing my own variation on borders as well - the same method, different material.

Wifey has been primed that I want an SCX rally chrono kit for Christmas.
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quick update from yesterday (friday 29th):

Track borders were finished and the track was re-mounted and hooked up to a variable PSU set at 12 volt and the PMTR diode controller was wired in with dynamic braking (negative polarity controller). I'll post details on how to connect this to the Chrono later, but basically it's (from left to right): Power (+) - power (-) - Controller (-) - controller (+) - controller (brakes).



Then the track was tested for several hundred laps with SCX rally cars on stock tires and a couple "reference cars" on Urethane tires like Fly Racing Porsche/Alfa/BMW and my custom built old SCX Porsche 911 that won the Australian Rally proxy series earlier this year
The track is fun and has a good flow with both fast and slow sections and the Chrono timer worked flawless with all these cars and did not miss a single lap. What surprised me the most was the extremely good grip with barely any difference between stock SCX tires and urethane tires, so scrubbing down old track with water/soap is highly recommended. The Stock (but smooth) SCX Classics returned laptimes around 15 seconds while the faster "high-tech" cars on Urethane tires shaved off another second. BTW: All the cars are "no-mag".

A few issues appeared during the test session, and it's a combination of track warping due to elevation changes and that the borders are about 1 mm lower than the track surface, so especially short cars with stiff chassis had some unnecessary deslots.



The solution is to screw or hotglue the track solid to the roadbed, and smooth out the transition between the track and borders with drywall spackle. The last will again lead to having to paint the whole track, which I had hoped to avoid befre the proxy event, but it has to be done so thats my agenda for the weekend.

Tore
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got a few more things done last night:

Masked the rails, which is an activity I genuinely hate, but to be honest it took less time than expected:



Then used about 3 Kg lightweight drywall spackle to level the borders to the track surface, which made a mess of the track, room and myself:



Then when the spackle was half dry I used a spatula and a wet finger to smooth out the transitions and remove excess spackle to keep the sanding and dust to a minimum, since ventilation is a bit limited in this room.

I'm now waiting for the spackle to dry so I can paint the first base coat.

It's impossible not to think about scenery anymore, but I'm struggling to find a theme and a good "scene" for the rally track. The track is quite flowing with good speed, but it's tight between some elevations so it needs some low steep rocks or walls, but it's not really high enough for a hill climb or Monte Carlo theme either. I want some running water under the bridge and maybe a combination for dirt and tarmac roads, but other than that I am pretty open to suggestions. I have an idea about a rally stage that pass through a hillside farm on the left side and down into a modern logging area on the right side, but suggestions are welcome. BTW: the backdrop will be changed to suit the theme.

Tore
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quick update:

The plaster did not cure until Monday morning due to some thick spots so then it got primed with my "special plastic track mix" (acrylic paint, drywall Spackle, tile grout and water). The "primer" is brushed onto the track and then "dabbed" to remove paint stripes and add texture. The texture looks coarse when applied but shrinks to a surface about the same as SCX track when dry, but it feels more like fine sandpaper.

The drywall Spackle in the mix makes it bond to the plastic track better than just acrylic paint and it gives a surface that is very easy to paint on. The tile grout adds grip but must be scrubbed down with a stiff sponge until the surface feels right before sealing it with the base color which also soften the grit.

It could have been easier to use spray cans with plastic primer, but I did not want the smell and toxic fumes inside the house and some spray primers can also melt the foam borders, so by using these almost odor free water based products I can get away with the track painting without complaints from the rest of the family.



I'm leaving for a short trip tomorrow morning, so the track progress will be paused until the end of the week. But that gives me time to plan the scenery
 

·
One petunia in a field of onions
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
Any ideas how the surface would be without the tile grout? Still trying to decide whether or not to paint my plastic track. I like the idea of prime and fill all in one, and would definitely need to brush or roll rather than spray. Have you any idea of the durability and longevity of your spackle/paint mix, Tore?

Embs
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Hi Ember.

On my other track I discovered that durability of the paint was much better in the sections where I had used drywall spackle to level out borders, so this time I mixed paint and spackle about 50/50 and then diluted it to a milky consistence with water. The mix seem to stick very well to the plastic track but the surface is somewhat like plaster, so I probably need to seal it, using a PVA based acrylic interior paint for the road surface should fix this.

One teaspoon tile grout was added to a cup of the mix with the idea to add grit to the surface so the track would"rubber up" more quickly, but I regret using it because the track feels like sandpaper, so I will probably scrub it smooth before adding more paint using a very stiff "tile sponge".

I'm playing with the idea of having a small part of the track running through a grass field (using Heki grass mat), I'll experiment more with this when I return back home this weekend


Tore
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Started to play around with some basic colors

Note that this is a very early stage in the scenic process, so it's just to show the idea of a "rally stage" that switch between a main road, old side road and a dirt road.


Will play around some more with colors while waiting for the next event in the SCX Classic Rally Proxy to start


SCX CRP11 - Round eleven, Denmark: http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57029
 

·
Tore
Joined
·
1,692 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update from last night:

Removing the masking tape was a tedious task since I probably left it on for too long (over a week). The tape constantly split and separated from the backing even though I cut it free with an excacto knife. Also had to clean all the rails from tape residue. For the future I will paint by freehand, that's just quicker and less frustrating.

Connected the track up again to check for continuity, debris in the rails and how the surface gripped. The track was "sponged" after the paint dried so the surface does not have the tile grout grit anymore, but is still rough enough to provide plenty grip on stock tires without having to worry about dust.

Also tested a section with Heki grass mat glued down to the track before cutting the rails free with an excacto. This raise the surface a bit from the rails so some cars with wide braids got power issues and some small cars with minimal ground clearance got stuck if they slided and placed the inner rear wheel on the rails. The grass section works very well with "normal" cars (normal braids and ground clearance), but I've got a few ideas on how to make it work for any cars.

Here's a quick test with a completely stock SCX Escort Cosworth (4WD) at 12 volt, no-mag.


Driving fast while shooting video is NOT easy, so ignore the crash


The next progress will probably be cardboard webs for the basic land shapes, and then a flexible "hard shell" using masking tape, spackle, grout and paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,545 Posts
I was starting to think against the SCX Rally Chrono, but now I've seen that video I'm back on it again.
I have to keep coming back for another look!
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top