SlotForum banner
1 - 20 of 88 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After organizing one or two slot rally events I quickly came to the conclusion that I needed some 'bomb proof' power, control and timing sections that could be easily transported from venue to venue and easily incorporated into SCX or Ninco stages made on the day.

A couple of these are in construction by Farnham Club members and will use DS timers and light bridges mounted onto MDF - very simple, but I wanted to do something a little better so I could use it as a photographic backdrop for reviews etc.

And so it starts...

Having just sold our family bus (Renault Scenic) which was perfect for transporting large baseboards and associated slot related paraphernalia, we downsized to a smaller vehicle (Citroen DS3). Anything I made had to fit into the DS. After collecting the car I swiftly measured the boot with the seats down and this set the size for any boards. It's wasn't that big! just over 1 meter x 1 meter.

The plan was simple, make two baseboards with loop returns that would form the beginning and end of a stage, using any suitable layout between the ends to suit the venue/space. I wanted to use SCX classic track as I have lots of it laying around and the muddy/snow sections make for great stages. After quickly searching through the house I realized that my godson had kept my SCX Chrono rally start so a replacement was ordered. I didn't want the timing section (which is not reliable enough for non SCX cars) just the track.

I laid out the track to form the basic shape of my loop and ended up not using much of the chrono start and simply cut up standard SCX track sections (I will use the SCX loop at the other end). Space was tight!



Various 1;35 scale plastic building kits were purchased and these have been built and painted.

Having decided on the layout I popped over to a friendly contractor and 'borrowed' some timber and MDF. A simple 3"x1" timber frame was made with an MDF base and the track laid on top prior to cutting out additional 6mm MDF to form the boarders. The track will be set flush. The edge of the board was cut away to allow the track to continue out to the rest of the stage. A few simple hills were also cut out.



Baseboard back at home and child duties on a Saturday morning resulted in 'messy play' application of the mod roc (plaster of paris cloth). The mod roc allows you to simply drap the elevations without too many formers under, but I did add the odd ripped up section of polystyrene to add shape and rolled some mod roc into squashed sausages to form ridges. It was messy and my 5 year old daughter did enjoy it, but the lure of uninterrupted kids TV proved too much , me being fussy probably didn't help either!

A quick dremel was used to carve out some stones shapes for the entrance into the farm/garage.

This is going to be an ongoing project with as many updates as I can. I no expert on the scenic side so tips, tricks, suggestions more than welcome. I will try to list down all the suppliers and products used as I go along so it builds into a resource.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
Great start. I look forward to following.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Some more progress.

Mod rock applied and left to dry;


Unpaid assistant adding a simple 'mud' base coat of paint;


'Mud' left to dry - very little, if any of the brown will be visible at the end of the project, but i didn't want any white patches coming through later on.


A couple of the part completed buildings, made by Mini Art in 1;35 scale as plastic kits;
Main building (garage/farm);


Farm entrance arch;

(which doubles as the light bridge for the timing system)

(two bright LED's inserted into the underside)
Both building painted with Tamiya acrylic paint and then over painted with brown oil paint, swiftly wiped off to leave mortar effect and stain the bricks.
 

·
One petunia in a field of onions
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
Amusing how the board seems to grow once there's a frame of reference. The apparent size difference between the flat board and the picture with it at the painters is huge.

Are you planning on gravelling/dirting the base before grassing?

The MiniArt kits are fab. Even the figures seem to have more character than the average plastic kit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (Ember @ 29 Mar 2011, 22:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Are you planning on gravelling/dirting the base before grassing?
The MiniArt kits are fab. Even the figures seem to have more character than the average plastic kit.

I'm not sure - not done any of the static charged grass before, but it would seem to make sense, if nothing else it will help to blend from grass to mud/rock etc. Do you recommend it?

The figures are from Tarn Model Foundry and there ill be lots of them plus other manufacturers.
 

·
One petunia in a field of onions
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
I would recommend going the full hog and doing dirt first. Testing the static grass was one of the reasons for doing the farm garage diorama. Although you may put quite a few layers of static grass on, it's still quite surprising how much of the base shows through, particularly obvious when viewed from above. And although you could probably just apply it atop a painted surface the underlying texture does help with realism.

This shot is only a single, although quite heavy application, but you'll see what I mean.


There are some areas where I've done multi-coats to try to get the grass longer and thicker. Anything beyond the first coat I've just used 6mm fibres, but its well worth using a variety of lengths for the initial application.

On the figures side of things I've been searching for the MiniArt WW2 driver figures kit. They seem like they'd be good for a slice 'n' dice. But none of my regular hobby haunts stock MiniArt figures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,552 Posts
Looks great so far Gareth


Do like buildings may have to invest in 1 or 2

Re unpaid assistant, keep telling my 3, I feed clothe and house them then they want presents at Christmas and on their birthdays. Now they want pocket money as well

don't know what it is but mine love painting as well.
Got some cheap grandstands at a slotfair and asked them to paint for me "yes please daddy" shock horror

the older 2 always ask me to get more spectators for them to do as well not the best painters but saves me doing it


look forward to seeing this develop over the coming months

John
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK so work and holidays really slowed down any progress, but back on track now.



SCX track sections laid into the track and glued into place ("no more nails"). Flexible sealant used to smooth edges of track to mdf.


Flexible "cobbled stone" road and courtyard laid in place, cut to shape and stuck with contact adhesive.


Still not sure how to treat the edge of the cobbles (raised curb or simply have grass upto edge).


In advance of using the static grass i wanted to add some standard covering (scatter) to the more vertical sections.


A quick spray with the airbrush to try and obtain a farm track type effect.


Lots more to do. Next weekend i hope to add all the static grass using the Noch Grass Master kindly loaned to me by Doug.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
Another delivery of stuff on Monday.

Stone walls (which i was waiting for so i could divide up the space prior to static grass flocking).


The walls come in approx 400mm lengths and are made from a resin/plastic - not really sure. They came from a friend who is looking into selling them, but not at the moment. I received several lengths both straight and curved (curved when cast to suit SCX track curves). None of the curves suited exactly what I wanted so I baked them in the oven (110 degrees for ten mins). and they bent well.


They had a tendency to return to their original curve so a couple of temporary screws held them in place whilst cooling down.


As supplied they were also a little too high, this was easliy fixed via a jigsaw!

A quick paint and a few pins and glue and they will be fixed.

I will let you know if the walls go into production for general sale, becuase they were very good value for money and great quality.
 

·
Phil B.
Joined
·
3,763 Posts
Tell him he can put me down for some walls, they`re the dogs danglies, a little bit of weathering etc. Course I`ll have to build another track to put them on.

(Sorry, I should mention, your work`s looking very good as well).

Er! I`ve just noticed the hole in the floor through the stable door, I put the WC in my version in the outhouse on the left


Cheers -Phil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Those walls would be perfect for my rally track. Please PM me with more details when you have them
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
More progress;

The walls - a very small amount of paint was added (dark grey to bring out the stones and the odd buff colored stone). These were then PVA glued in place and a few spots of Super glue added just in case.



The next job was the one i had really been interested to get a start on. Static Flocking Grass with the Noch Grass Master. All sounds very impressive and it should be for the price of the kit. As i mentioned previously Doug, very kindly, loaned me a Noch Grass Master and part of the loan deal was that i would provide a suitable review - this will follow soon, but the following will give you an idea;

First - Wet the area to be flocked (this is to aid the electrical conductivity of the glue)


Then add some PVA glue (or you can mix the two together and then apply, but i found this not to be as good as applying separately because the water simply soaked into the base leaving the glue drying)


Once you have a good covering and it's nice and wet bang a pin or nail into the area ensuring the nail makes good contact with the glue/water (i brushed the pin with water every time just in case)


Attach the croc clip from the grass master to the pin (this grounds the circuit)


Gently shake the unit as close to the surface as possible. The nylon 'grass' comes out of the machine vertical, is attracted to the grounded base and (most of the time) sticks vertical leaving grass.


Results vary, when it works, it's great, when it doesn't it's OK;


Lots more to do over the weekend, including more flocking, leaves, gates etc, etc.

I also had to re-make the light bridge. The two LED bulbs simply didn't give off enough light, so i took them out and replaced them with a high powered LED tourch, built into the unit and added a small mirror to angle the beam downwards.

Much much brighter, but it does make the gate top heavy so some decent fixings required (in the morning).
 

·
One petunia in a field of onions
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
Hmmmm.... Looking forward to your review on the GrassMaster.

But, from the above photos, I'm a little disappointed by it. The results don't really seem any better than the puffer bottle approach.


Above was done with a puffer bottle. Not the long tufts along the back fence, but the understory.

I think I might tackle a flyswat conversion for doing large areas.

Embs
 

·
Targa Freak
Joined
·
936 Posts
Yapp, grassmaster has to be helped a little sometimes: If you cant reach the surface close enough ( about 2.5 to 3cm work ideally) because of buildings, fences etc. you get in trouble with grassmasters abilities. A vacuumclleaner directly used after applying grass often rescues something. The look of grass produced by grassmaster and Co. is too acurate, grass can be pressed here and there a little with finger or screwdriver to get the more realistic look. Different thickness of glue gives a different look. And as Ember mentioned: To reach some more difficult areas nothing can be better like the good old plastic-bottle-job (One problem with that: You get mad when space that has to be worked is big...and you cant work with longer kinds of grass-fibres). Here is my result with a grassmater-like product from Faller ("cheaper" -"just" 93.-Euro- like grassmaster from NOCH (about 130.-!)



Anyhow: Great job, nice looks. Regards Jens
 

·
One petunia in a field of onions
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
QUOTE (Kellerkind @ 15 May 2011, 18:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>One problem with that: You get mad when space that has to be worked is big...and you cant work with longer kinds of grass-fibres.
I've used the puffer bottle application for 6mm fibres and mixed in offcuts from the Woodland Scenics long field grass quite successfully. Just wondering what you see as the limiting length Jens?

Sorry Jexy, didn't mean to divert the thread.
 
1 - 20 of 88 Posts
Top