[Slots-O-Fun]

I have two great cars, a Racer 250LM and a MB Sloter Lola T280 (white kit), both of which make an annoying rattling noise! I believe I have identified it as the solid front axles sliding up and down in the "oval" shaped chassis moldings. Certainly it is the case on the Lola.

Its almost like they need a mini spring or a piece of sponge jammed in there. Any ideas on how to dampen this?

 

[RichD]

I guess that slot cars have oval front axle holes to compensate for a warped chassis. The easy solution to the noise problem is just to turn up the music. On a serious note, if you run without magnets the front end of the car is nearly as important as the back. You need to keep the front tires firmly on the track and anything that wants to shake around will induce vibrations in the chassis that will degrade handling to some extent. With my NSR Mosler I fixed the sloppy front axle by threading some fine wire between the axle and the axle carrier, looping that over the top and twisting the ends together. A smidge of glue keeps the wire in place.

 

[AllanI]

Have you checked to see if there are small holes in the top of the axle loop and/or floorpan ? If there are you can fit M2 grubscrews and adjust the axle height and free play to suit.

Allan

 

[Slots-O-Fun]

Thanks for these suggestions. I will check tonight.

 

[Screwneck]

1. Remove ends of axles or washer any excessive sideways slop.

2. Leave all the up and down movement as it's supposed to be there to allow a slotcar to move correctly into curves and straighten out again afterwards. 1mm to 2mm up and down movement is ideal.

3. Live with a bit of noise! If you want the quiet life then grow flowers

 

[honestjudge]

Ear plugs work well for me

 

[Ratracer]

Hi do you superglue the front tyres (or use nail polish) this can sometimes cause a rattling noise if the superglue has a lump in it if so just true this out.

We race on timber track an we stabilise the front axle by either gluing some bearings into the inside of the front axle holder or use a small plastic washer to one side of the axle holder or tother similar device (I now even do this when there are grub screws to adjust the front axle). I do this on a setup board to ensure that the chassis is square and both fronts just touch the board, just tapping the front tyres to ensure that they sit solidly and there is no lifting of the opposit rear wheel. If racing on plastic you will need some movement of the front axle.

Also as above remove as much sideways movement of the front axle assembly as possible but still allowing the wheels to spin freely.

Regards

Ray

 

[Abarth Mike]

Lola?

Use Chuppa Chup stick pieces over the axle inside the front wheel "bearings" They raise the axle slightly as they just kiss the small ribs that are there for guiding the motor leads.

 

[stoner]

i would do it like rat racer said. your trying to eliminate up and down and any side waysmovement. i have used small sqares of 1/32 plasticard glued to the chassis, to just under axle height and then drilled it for a grubscrew. i usually use all off the movement to run the axle at the top of the hole and then take the guide up till the wheels just touch the track. john

 

[Slots-O-Fun]

Thanks all for the help.

I actually eliminated the sideways movement along time ago. I used some plastic tube as a spacer.

I solved the Sloter MB Lola rattle last night. The solution is kind of crude but it worked. I had some left over copper tape and I simply wrapped it around the axle until I had gained enough thickness that it didn't wobble. Then I lubed it with some teflon grease and it works.

I will look at it again in terms of adding some plastic card spacer. I can see that working well.

I am not sure what to do about the Racer 250. I looked at it closer and I think it is the cockpit pan banging on the chassis, not the front axle. I will try a little padding to see if that works

 

[300SLR]

Floating front axle bearings work best in some circumstances, rigidly fixed ones work best in others. All depends on the type of car and type of track.
If they are rigid, exactly where they are fixed is often important. Small height changes can make a big differance. For these it is vital to have it so each side is the same height from the track.
Some cars work best with the front wheels well clear of the track, more often than not for those cars, precisely how far clear of the track makes little differance.

I'd say do what works for your cars on your track and don't be surprised if a different set up is best for other cars and other types of track.