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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My scratch built car needs a guide blade - for the first prototype I pulled it off a late '70s Scalextric car and it worked well. For the second one I ordered some and got a slightly later version, it looks similar but the braids wrap up through a slot, forwards over the top, down another slot and back to where they'd touch the track. I also ordered some brass eyelets.

After an hour I'd managed to turn the air blue, failed to get the eyelets to hold next to the braids and swear never to use them again.

Should I:
[ ] Find someone who can tell me how they go together
[ ] Use the earlier guide and the worlds most aggressive crimp tool on the eyelets
[ ] Use another guide all together

Help with any of these or another solution would be appreciated!
 

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QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 12 May 2011, 11:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What track are you running it on?
At the moment it's 1/32 Scalextric sport and classic, in fact it's some of the track you gave me from TRC...

but it would be nice if the guide could handle any track. I'm not after ultimate grip, it's not that kind of car (link in my sig if you want to see)
 

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Ninco guides are pretty good, and usually easy to fit Ninco eyelets in: they don't seem to suffer from the dreaded SCX 'Spanish n*pple, and you have the option of retaining the spring, if you order a pack of the sprung ones.
 

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I wondered if it was the same Choc-Ice, glad to have helped you out with the track, I'd say go for a Ninco guide as well, they're pretty good, though may be a little deep for Classic, I think my Ninco Porsche 934 just touches the bottom of the slot in Classic track.

Are you going to Gaydon, if so I'll be there racing on the HO track and hopefully wandering round at lunch time, I might be wearing a Husqvarna T-shirt, if I can find it.
 

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Sprung guides stay in contact with the track better (I think), I've got a Revell Ascona 400 and that runs better with a sprung guide than without.

If you come over to the HO track in the afternoon I'll be racing a blue 1971 Plymouth Roadrunner, and in the morning either an orange or red F1 car.

Now if someone can come up with a 1:32 '71 Roadrunner or '72 Charger body that would be good.
 

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QUOTE (choc-ice @ 12 May 2011, 10:48) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>At the moment it's 1/32 Scalextric sport and classic, in fact it's some of the track you gave me from TRC...

but it would be nice if the guide could handle any track. I'm not after ultimate grip, it's not that kind of car (link in my sig if you want to see)
A guide for any track is a bit difficult.
The depth of a guide blades is limited by the slot depth - it shouldn't rub on the bottom of the slot.
The maximum guide blade depth that can be used on Scalextric sport and classic track is somewhat shallower than ideal for wooden tracks.
You could choose a deeper guide, run full depth on wood and substitute a cut down one when running on Scalex track.
The Slot.it for wood guides are good if you want the pivot well forward. Parma/ Cahoza/Slick 7 type guides work better, but are only suitable if your car has a long enough nose to cover them.

QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 12 May 2011, 12:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Sprung guides stay in contact with the track better (I think),
In my experience, while a sprung guide is better than a fixed one at some way off the correct height, unsprung guides set up accurately to the right running height are much better than sprung guides.
 

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Jim Moyes
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The later guide you got is for the first of the easyfit system used by Scaley where sprung metal contacts are fitted to the chassis and press on the braid that is wrapped over the top of the guide. This was done to make it easier for Mum or Dad to replace Junior's braids, but I think Scaley probably added the eyelet "holes" so they could use this new guide as a replacement for the earlier one. As you've found out, the eyelets are very reluctant to stay put, though the ladies who built the cars up at Margate obviously had the "knack", as many of the later liveries of earlier cars (Metros, Minis etc) had them from new, still with wires and eyelets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the feedback everyone, I'm no production line operator but I thought I'd still be able to build at least one! I've ordered some Ninco guide blades instead.

I don't really want to solder the wires to the braids, sods law says that I'll need to remove something at some point....
 
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