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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, well the title says it all!

After years of being unable to get a decent mask line I have finally cracked it!!


I had a decal which went across the 2 colours and it really made me sit up and notice the ' lip '.

Can anyone give advice please on the best way around this?

There are threads which say to rub down the lip line with ultra fine wet ' n' dry , but wont that ruin the finish - or does applying the laquer coat over the top ' reinstate ' the shine and appearance?

Surely the paint there has to be relatively thickish to avoid risking taking it too far back?

Many thanks in advance for your help.

Regards,
VicElfordFan
 

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Vic,
I have found that you need to build thepaint up slowly,when you have good enough cover,on the last coat remove the mask before the last coat has dried. this should allow the paint to spread slightly which stops the ridge forming, when you spray the varnish top coat again this softens the paints
hope this helps
Zen
 

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Very, very fine W&D or T-Cut can work well if the lip is very pronounced. Micro Mesh is a great product too and comes in very fine grades - up to 8000+ - http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1278_1_1023525.html

As Zen says - several thin coats and remove the tape while the last coat is still just wet but beyond the runny stage. For decals then MicroSol and MicroSet are very good at preparing the surface and then softening the decals so that they take up the contours or imperfections.

Have a look at some of the scale modelling sites for tips - the Britmodeller forum is encyclopaedic! http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showforum=68
 
G

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Another good tip which I use a lot is to spray a quick pass along the masking line with the same colour you are masking.

So if your fine line has a bit of bleed, say along the door jams the colour that bleeds is the same colour, which then seals up the bleed hole!

On the ridge front I find the lacquer tends to hide it. Unless it is a mountain!

Phil
 

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Phil Smith
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There are a couple of ways of avoiding this, but I don't think any of the answers above would prove satisfactory btw.
Firstly don't use too much paint, keep it down to a maximum of three coats, always paint the light colours first and you should then get away with a very light application if the stripes etc are a darker colour.
Clear coat the body before you apply the decals, three coats of clear coat should even up any ridges, polish with a rubbing compound or fine pads (down to 12000 grit) to get a perfect finish.
Then apply the decals and clear coat again.
Then polish again!
With experience, when you know how to get the paint and clear coats on properly, you should be able to get away without cutting back and polishing!, but it's taken me fifty years
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Any 'sanding' or abrading is likley to cause damage to the paint either side of a narrow fine ridge between colours after painting. It's a minefield of potential disasters


Things to think about:

1. Try different modelling masking tapes as different materials cause different levels of paint finish

2. Only ever plan to lay down one coat of spray, or two at most, as anything above two coats will cause a ridge

3. Never decal over a ridge as the decal will make the line look even worse

4. If it's just a tiny ridge then a clear topcoat may make it almost invisible, or hardly noticeable

5. Avoid painting that involves masking tape altogether


6. The only way I've ever reduced any form of ridge is to remove the tape very quickly after painting (literally a few seconds after) so the paint is allowed to dry without any barrier material holding it at the edges
 

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One very important thing is to use a good masking tape.
The results improved tremendously when I started using the Tamiya yellow tape. It's very thin and has just the right degree of stickiness. The thinnest strip is 0,7 mm (~1/32") which is good for pin stripes.
It's what I used on this repaint of a Fly "Playboy edition" Alfa Romeo Giulia GTV.
The finish on this paint job isn't perfect but the point here is that the pin stripes on either side of the red areas are nice and crisp and there are hardly any ridges at all under the decal on the hood.
 

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The only time I've had trouble sanding the paint ridge formed by masking was when the paint substrate was too smooth (high gloss). A little touch with some 2000 wet/dry will take the edge off that ridge that forms against the edge of the tape, but don't try to take it all the way down to the same level (the paint would be gone) , just take the edge off. Use a light touch. You can then apply decals, or clear-coat then apply decals, then clear-coat again.

The below pic is a painted stripe, white over the metallic blue/green, then clear-coated. If I'm clear-coating, I don't strive for a mirror finish on the color coat, smooth is sufficient, better, in fact for adhesion of the clear-coat than a glass finish.


DSC_0038 by Dattodesign, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi guys,

Thanks for the replys. I dont think Im too far away as its not a mountain Im left with and I have noticed that the clear coat does seem to help disguise it.

I note all the tips and will try a couple next time round. Its a question of trying to get it as perfect (to me ) as possible and believe me I am my own worst critic.

I have recently 'found' the Tamiya masking tape and its streets ahead of whatever it was I was using!

Less coats on the masked colour is obvious when you say it but something I will make sure I pay attention to next time.

I am juggling with Pattos peel & stick decals at the moment ( not really sure after a couple of goes ) and I have managed to hide the line almost completely so with your help I think I will crack it for sure next time!

Just used the Klear floor polish ( sorry now called Pledge Multi Surface Wax !! ) for the first time and it am happy with the result. I really only used it to try and seal Pattos waterslide decals and then I used Halfords clear as I always have done as a final coat or two.

Could write pages about the decals - waterslide v's peel & stick - their + & - 's and how best to final coat finish them.

Must start a new thread soon!

Thanks for the help guys - appreciated as always.

Regards,
VicElfordFan
 
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