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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have scalextric cars which have light scuff marks (some are pretty noticable) - is there a simple way for removing these scratches?

I read somewhere that 'Brasso' was good for this, but I'm not sure, anyone used Brasso? Does it work?
 

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Sometimes adding a clear coat will fill in the scratches. Try some "Future" or whatever it's called now-a-days. It's a floor polish that many of us use as a finishing coat.

Randy
 

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Anthony Bartlett
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Tamiya (or other model propiatory brand) of polishing compound - and oh yes - lots of polishing
 

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For deeper marks use very fine sandpaper first (1200grit+) then take colgate regular or similar toothpaste and polish to shine. On scuffs just use the toothpaste. I've refurbished several 60's bodies using this method. It works to remove minor glue damage to clear windows etc. You may initially need a little courser sandpaper on glue marks but not much more than 400grit or else the sandpaper marks will become the problem. With the toothpaste I use a soft cotton cloth(old tshirt) that is moist to apply and work the plastic using a circular pattern then buff with soft dry cloth.

There are also specific plastic polishes but I never found any real benefit over the cheaper toothpaste method. Car polish, not rubbing compound, will work but I've had mixed results. The toothpaste seems to have about the right cutting/polishing action. Note that different types of toothpaste have different abrasiveness. Classic Colgate seems about right if you can find it. Some brands have very little "bite" and you will wear out your arm trying to do just a small area.

Resist the temptation to use anything like a dremel to make the job easier because disaster is just a slip away.
Jimmy
 

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QUOTE (Jimmy in Greece @ 3 Jun 2011, 07:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>For deeper marks use very fine sandpaper first (1200grit+) then take colgate regular or similar toothpaste and polish to shine. On scuffs just use the toothpaste. I've refurbished several 60's bodies using this method. It works to remove minor glue damage to clear windows etc. You may initially need a little courser sandpaper on glue marks but not much more than 400grit or else the sandpaper marks will become the problem. With the toothpaste I use a soft cotton cloth(old tshirt) that is moist to apply and work the plastic using a circular pattern then buff with soft dry cloth.

There are also specific plastic polishes but I never found any real benefit over the cheaper toothpaste method. Car polish, not rubbing compound, will work but I've had mixed results. The toothpaste seems to have about the right cutting/polishing action. Note that different types of toothpaste have different abrasiveness. Classic Colgate seems about right if you can find it. Some brands have very little "bite" and you will wear out your arm trying to do just a small area.

Resist the temptation to use anything like a dremel to make the job easier because disaster is just a slip away.
Jimmy

I thought about using the colgate toothpaste you mentioned, but have you seen the price of that stuff man? Over the past 20 years or so I have been using dentures for appearance and dining due to all my teeth falling out when I turned 79. Do you know of any cheaper brands of toothpaste on the market?

Your help and advith in thith matter would be greatly apprethiated.

Yours,

Thamantha.
 

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No laughing matter but I loved the response to the tooffpaste idea. I nearly lost my last sip of whiskey. This forum rarely provides laughs, it's almost just wows, but man keep it coming with the humor.
Ps. Try aim or some other off brand of toothpaste or maybe a small dose of baking soda and water would work, although I haven't tried it yet. I'm sure somebody will help more, this forum has lots of helpers.
Thanks again for the late night laugh.
Cheers, Willis
 

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I agree with all the suggestions so far...certainly 1200 grit, Tamiya's polishes, toothpaste and/or baking soda work great (for different levels of scratches obviously). I wanted to mention two other inexpensive options...the window polish for clear plastic windows on convertibles (for example Jeep softops or Miata/MX-5's). Novus is one of those brands I've had success with. I also use the fine polishes/rouges you can buy for your Dremel. I personally admit to being crazy (and impatient) enough to use the dremel and white cloth polishing wheel...but it takes a practiced hand not to either "grab" something or burn through. Also...definitely test whatever grit you're using somewhere not visible first.

No matter what happens you'll have a story to tell *grin*

John
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Pop down to your auto store

T-Cut applied lightly on a cottonbud for deep marks

Car liquid polish on a cottonbud for lighter marks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
...Thanks to all of you and the multiple suggestions - I'll need to try one of the above tips, let you know how I get on.
 

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Are these painted or bare plastic Scaleys? I cleaned up the bare plastic on an old Cox Cheetah a few month back. A few of the decals etched into the surface which was sanded out starting with 600 grit sandpaper which made the surface look quite scratchy...


...and sanded with progressively finer paper with 2000 grit for the final sanding. It was polished with Flitz Polish which is quite abrasive...then the 3 stage Novus Polishing set.


cheers,
Bob
 

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QUOTE (endbelldrive @ 21 Jun 2011, 13:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Are these painted or bare plastic Scaleys? I cleaned up the bare plastic on an old Cox Cheetah a few month back. A few of the decals etched into the surface which was sanded out starting with 600 grit sandpaper which made the surface look quite scratchy...


...and sanded with progressively finer paper with 2000 grit for the final sanding. It was polished with Flitz Polish which is quite abrasive...then the 3 stage Novus Polishing set.


cheers,
Bob
Thanx Bob, you've really done the biz there, like the pics....gonna have to sit down and get in there and do it, will follow your lead.

What are you doing with your models?

Sell or keep?

Not sure what you mean by painted or bare plastic? One of my models (c34 e type jag) has this polythene pealing type stuff underneath the body, what is that? I dont want to tear it off as it must be there for a reason. But then again my new kitchen units have something similar - a thin plastic covering, that must be removed. What is that on the Scaley Jag?
 

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I use Original Formula zymol Cleaner wax when I have some minor scratches and afterwards I use distilled water and buff and always very soft micro cloth towels. The product information on the back of the bottle says Copyright 1998 Mfr for Zymol (two dots over the o ) Enterprises, Inc. 5655 W. 73rd St. Chicago IL 60638 Z-503 the BAR CODE is 0 74660 01503 2 . Once the car is super cleaned and buffed out I will go back and use a bare, clean finger or a micro towel and apply Du Pont Showroom Finish Teflon &#153; Ultra Spray wax. The wax is white thick and dries pretty fast even for use on a plastic slot car. Part Number CWX2031, Bar Code 0 48598 80144 9 . This makes the cars very slippery to handle and I know that for a fact I used it on my 1974 1:1 Camaro Type LT and not even Full strength paint remover on a rag could penetrate the wax!! I had a call from the paint shop owner and took him my bottle of the stuff to show him what it was. He had NEVER seen a product this strong that could not be penetrated by full strength paint remover before. The great thing is that IF a person tried to lay something on my hood or roof it would slide off..really upset my neighbor in Hawaii. I now use it on every surface area on my SCARAB Recumbent Trike (www.scarabtrikes.com) including the inside of my fender polishing aluminum brake handles and everything on the trike.
"CAUTION" IF you apply this stuff on a car nothing will stick to it. Not post it notes, tape numbers...Nothing! It is very slippery and it is very easy to drop a slot car once the polish has been used. IF you are using the car to race Commerical tracks Leave a spot for no Teflon...like a windshield. I usually polish my windshields anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE (lindseyangell @ 28 Jun 2011, 17:21) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...... apply Du Pont Showroom Finish Teflon &#153; Ultra Spray wax.

.....damn! can't get that product here in prehistoric Britain.
 
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