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I have a largish resin part. Cleaned it up and painted it first with primer then gold from a rattle can. The gold was the wrong shade so I sanded it off. Repainted with undercoat from a rattle can but the paint didn't dry.

Sanded it off and because I am trying to match an old colour I painted it black using Tamiya enamel paint, intending to mist with gold and then a lighter shade which I have done successfully on a scrap piece of plastic. The Tamiya enamel wouldn't dry either even though I successfully painted some small resin parts black at the same time.

Sanded off the enamal, cleaned the part with alcohol then with Tamiya thinner.
Tried again with enamel Still no go.
Sanded it off

OK I thought maybe if I use acrylic but no it won't dry either,

Is there something wrong with the resin?

Is there a solution or process I can use?
 

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Might be worth bathing it in Isopropyl Alcohol for a while? then doing what FZS said above.
 

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Martin De Ath
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Hi there Mike...

Before I paint a Resin Bodyshell or Plastic come to that. I always give it a through wash with washing up liquid (use a good make) and warm water, getting into every nook and cranny with a 1/2 paint brush..
Then I dry it off, and leave it overnight to completley dry out..
Give it a good check over before spraying..
Touch wood, so far I have not had a problem using this process....

Good luck in resolving your problem..

All the best.. Martin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (Graymalkin33 @ 30 Sep 2012, 19:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Might be worth bathing it in Isopropyl Alcohol for a while? then doing what FZS said above.

I'll give it a wipe but I've had bad experience with Isopropyl Alcohol in the past. Yes that was soaking not bathing but I'm still a bit gun shy.
 

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give the alcohol a try, nothing melts resin, as long as you dont forget its there. even detol will melt a scalextric body if its in there too long. i use Kustomarts way on resin bodies. are you sure you havent mixed your paint sequence up. cellulose primer-cellulose top coat. you can then do your detailing ect with acrylic and enamel. but your clearcoat must be one of these 2, doesn,t matter which, john
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have "bathed in alcohol with a Q-tip. Now soaking in soapy (laundry detergent) water.

What about lighter fluid should I also bathe in that?

I'm thinking of trying Polypropylene Bumper primer. It is clear.
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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Mike, I think you might be better off using a dish washing liquid type detergent than laundry detergent. Laundry detergents usually have softeners and the likes added. Whereas a dish one will be a fairly simple grease cutting surfactant.

I had problems with getting primer to stick to a resin ute body that I'm painting. Tamiya Fine Primer, that I'd not tried on resin before. No problems with drying at all, merely flaking of the primer. I did wash it well with soft soap and a toothbrush prior to spraying the primer. Stripped the lot again, gave the shell a good soak in Sugar Soap (I figured I've used it for cleaning a wall before painting a mural, it' couldn't hurt on resin). It worked a treat. So, you might consider using old fashioned Sugar Soap.

Embs
 

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Phil Kalbfell
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Warm the resin part and check for any shinny areas on the part, glossy area will indicate if the resin is old and not set properly. This can happen IF the resin is old or has absorbed moisture into the containers.
 

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lol Mike I dont think YOU are supposed to bathe in the lighter fluid!!!!!!!!!!!
But if you must - just dont smoke while you do it.

IPA wont hurt the resin body. It wont hurt plastic usually either, specially on new bodies.
 

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QUOTE (Graymalkin33 @ 2 Oct 2012, 04:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>lol Mike I dont think YOU are supposed to bathe in the lighter fluid!!!!!!!!!!!
But if you must - just dont smoke while you do it.

IPA wont hurt the resin body. It wont hurt plastic usually either, specially on new bodies.

Well my bumper primer didn't dry either. As it is clar it is a bastard to sand off as one can't see it. So I popped down to the pharmacy and bought some Dettol. Wow it takes paint off OK. It's only been a couple of hours but already the undried clear stuff is off and the old gold paint I successfully did is almost all off.

Then I'll try again.

No bathing in lighter fluid I'm not a Buddhist monk. If I was a bit younger and had a suitable venue I might try and attempt to seduce a female with the promise of ass's milk ( OK I'd use cow's milk but)...


I'll have to keep my eyes open for sugar soap but I am at the end of the supply chain here.
 

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Hi,

Don't think you said but did the original gold spray dry ok. If it did then could be a reaction between this or a residue it's left behind and the newer coats. Most autoparts shops do a seal anything primer which is designed to prevent reaction between different paint types and could be worth a try.

Sugar soap may not be a univeral term as I have seen it also refer to a type of face cleaner and a google search found mostly UK sites, so could just a a UK or Ex UK area term. Just ask your local paint supplier for what ever water based wall cleaner they do, it sould be much the same.
 

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Rich Dumas
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I had a resin body that would not take paint, probably because some silicone mold release got stuck in the resin. I don't think that this is your problem since the original primer and finish coats worked OK. Tamiya paint can get water trapped in it and if it does it may never dry. It is best to apply spray paint when the humidity is low, it might help to warm the spray can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (RichD @ 3 Oct 2012, 20:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I had a resin body that would not take paint, probably because some silicone mold release got stuck in the resin. I don't think that this is your problem since the original primer and finish coats worked OK. Tamiya paint can get water trapped in it and if it does it may never dry. It is best to apply spray paint when the humidity is low, it might help to warm the spray can.

Well i soaked it in Dettol to remove all the old paint then gave it a spray with Phillips aerosol cleaner/degreaser, which is very volatile and evaporates almost instantly.

I've sprayed it with Plastic primer and am waiting. Tomorrow I'll stick it out in the sun. It does seem a bit better. It's now a project all of its own


I didn't warm the can, didn't think of that and humidity here in the tropics is quite high it's 65% in my office with A/C off. Probably higher outside.

Plan B or C. Paint the thing with superglue. That cures chemically and not through evaporation.
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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I had a similar problem with a couple of Cheetah resin kits. Isopropyl alchohol was a waste of time, even when it was drenched and scrubbed in the stuff. Then I tried washing up liquid, but it was still not right. White Spirit was a bit better, but the finish had blotches caused by uneven drying.

What did the best job? Liquid lighter fuel and cotton wool. All paints dried then and with zero blemishes.

The endless hours spent and constant stripping and repainting have proven to me that resin so-called 'kits' are rather demanding and time-consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE (Screwneck @ 4 Oct 2012, 03:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I had a similar problem with a couple of Cheetah resin kits. Isopropyl alchohol was a waste of time, even when it was drenched and scrubbed in the stuff. Then I tried washing up liquid, but it was still not right. White Spirit was a bit better, but the finish had blotches caused by uneven drying.

What did the best job? Liquid lighter fuel and cotton wool. All paints dried then and with zero blemishes.

The endless hours spent and constant stripping and repainting have proven to me that resin so-called 'kits' are rather demanding and time-consuming.

It's out in the sun. But I have some bulk Naptha so I'll give that a try if.....

What is weird is that the first time I painted it, it was perfect except the colour. Had I been doing a repaint it would have been fine but I'm trying to get close to a weathered gold car. Next is weathered silver
 

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Q:


What is the base component of resin? I am thinking about coating with "Hard as Nails" as a sealer if the paint doesn't dry. It maybe acetone based which may not be good
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update:

Striped off the paint again with Dettol.
Soaked the part in water for 24 hrs to leach out any Dettol from the resin as it still smelled of Dettol.
Allowed to dry on the "modem" for 24 hrs.(warm)
Scrubbed with Fast Orange hand cleaner.
Put in water in ultrasonic cleaner.
Allowed to dry on the "modem" for 24 hrs.
Scrubbed with Fast Orange hand cleaner.
Put in water in ultrasonic cleaner.
Allowed to dry on the "modem" for 24 hrs.

Friend suggested Mr. Hobby White Base 1000. Painted with that, with a brush.

Problem solved.

Not sure why but Mr. Hobby is a different solvent base than Tamiya, Acrylic rattle can, or Automotive rattle can.
 
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