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DO NOT!!!! use regular steel pins as soon as the flux and heat hits them they will be stuck in your jig forever and start rotting away. You can get stainless pins in all sizes from McMaster-Carr, just look them up on your search engine. .
 

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I hesitate to disagree with someone so far ahead of me in the IPS proxy series but ...

Kept clean and well lubricated with machine oil, my cheap and cheerful pins have survived many a chassis build up 'til this point. Other viewpoints are available.
L.
 

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QUOTE (lowrider @ 10 Nov 2011, 12:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I hesitate to disagree with someone so far ahead of me in the IPS proxy series but ...

Kept clean and well lubricated with machine oil, my cheap and cheerful pins have survived many a chassis build up 'til this point. Other viewpoints are available.
L.

You can get 50 of the pins in stainless for less than 10 bucks for the smaller sizes and they are machined to fit right. I have used oiled steel pins in my old jigs but the clearance on the new one is very tight so I have conceded to using the stainless hardware for now. I do know a guy who split a very nice jig in half with a pin that would not slide easily into it's hole, he added too much force to install it and the jig broke in half. I have brass pins for my old jig also that have never been a problem other than getting soldered to the chassis.

The IPS car is a plastic Ninco chassis. . . Go figure.

Regards Ken
 

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QUOTE (mmmoose1 @ 10 Nov 2011, 11:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I do know a guy who split a very nice jig in half with a pin that would not slide easily into it's hole, he added too much force to install it and the jig broke in half.

Hey Ken, that little secret was supposed to stay in the VAULT!
 
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