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Hi guys

Last time I played with scalextric was at least 25 years ago so bear with me, a LOT has changed!

Ok so I decided to get my wee boy a my first scalextric set for his christmas however after visiting the scalextric site the Xmas present description has changed somewhat lol! (a familiar story no doubt )

(God I've missed the thrill of the race, anyway ill try not to ramble on too much)

So here I am a week later the project has spiralled out of control & already massively over budget and I can't afford to make any expensive mistakes at this stage.

Our setup is going to be roughly 50 feet (max) of sport track with perhaps 1 or 2 digital lanechanges tops and would like the option of running upto 4 cars at once. Now I presumed that a 4 car powerbase & wallwart PSU would do the job but then I got a couple of little flashbacks of my childhood track all those years ago & cars slowing down horribly at the outer extremes of the track due to lack of juice/amps and I started to look into this a bit yesterday & happened to stumble upon your site.

So after reading the helpful sticky on pb/psu performance I realised that I was going to be needing a 7024 psu.

So here's the first question:

must this be paired with the expensive 7042 advanced 6 car powerbase or can I hook this psu upto any digital compatible powerbase.

I don't need fancy laptime counters or game modes I just want enough power to run my track (i realise the powerbases can accomodate two psu's)

I don't mind running extra wires to various points around the track to distribute the power evenly if this is possible but I don't want to be opening powerpacks up to do this.

any advice / tips please

thx in advance for your time....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh & I also noticed a picture of someone using a regulated psu like the type we had in physics class at school can someone give me a link to something like this if you don't think either one or two 7024's will be up to the job.

thx again

Steve
 

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Hello Steve , I'll leave the technical advice to someone more qualified , but in regard to expensive mistake ....I'd suggest trying digital on someones elses layout before splashing the cash . They're a friendly bunch on here , so you should find someone nearby.

All the best
Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Geoff

Thx I did wonder about this, the whole digital aspect of it could be dropped as I've not actually bought any of those parts yet I'd be just as happy to go with analogue and have two cars running on track but I still need to figure out the best power option.

this threads probably already went far enough off topic for it to be in the wrong section.

Help guys I just need an adequate power solution for 40 or 50 feet of sports track.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maybe the powerbase that came as standard with the Crime Patrol set (dont know the part number sorry) will be adequate if I added a second psu.

meh am really confused now...
 

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hi Ghost
if you are not after laptiming and all the other goodies that come with digital then the 4 car pb is ideal but it will need the second psu to make it work on your 50ft layout.

Before you spend the dosh on all the needed kit,chips etc i would personally stick with the analouge setup for a while again with the second psu.

After you have had a time to settle in with it then decide if you want the extra expense of going digital.

Just to confirm that the psu that is used for the 4 car pb also works with the C7042(apb).

Hope this helps.
 

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FWIW, I'm running 50ft-ish of analogue track. I've got seperate PSUs for each lane (standard Sport fare) and I don't have any problems with power dropping-off that I'm aware of.

In fact, I've run it as a single lane (one crossover) which would make it a "lap" of about 100ft and noticed no problems with that, either.

HTH
Stuart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (bigbird @ 3 Dec 2011, 18:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hi Ghost
if you are not after laptiming and all the other goodies that come with digital then the 4 car pb is ideal but it will need the second psu to make it work on your 50ft layout.

Before you spend the dosh on all the needed kit,chips etc i would personally stick with the analouge setup for a while again with the second psu.

After you have had a time to settle in with it then decide if you want the extra expense of going digital.

Just to confirm that the psu that is used for the 4 car pb also works with the C7042(apb).

Hope this helps.

Hi Ade

Thanks for the reply so you're suggesting the 4 car digital powerbase & two power supplies for use on my upto 50 foot analogue sports track.

I presume this is correct as I can't recall seeing anything about a 4 car analogue powerbase.

so I therefore need:

2 x C7024 (psu's)

and

1 x C4PBD (powerbase track)

to power a 50 foot analogue sports track setup.

If you can confirm or correct this it'd be very much appreciated.

Thx Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 3 Dec 2011, 19:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>FWIW, I'm running 50ft-ish of analogue track. I've got seperate PSUs for each lane (standard Sport fare) and I don't have any problems with power dropping-off that I'm aware of.

In fact, I've run it as a single lane (one crossover) which would make it a "lap" of about 100ft and noticed no problems with that, either.

HTH
Stuart.

Thx for the input Stuart

I presume the standard sports fare powerbase is the one I'll already have but you're running it with 2 x P9200W wall warts?
 

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Prof I T
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hi
to use the 4 car pb you will also need 4 digital ready cars and 4 digital throttles,costly

if you already have a sportbase you only need to add another wall wart.

Just to be able to run 2 cars more than analouge the expense to go digital is high,you need 4 car pb 2 psu and 4 throttles plus if the cars you have are dpr ready then 4 dpr chips,and last but not least digital lane change sections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok what ill do then is pick up a cheap wall wart from eBay & give them a try when the rest of the track shows up next week.

If there's any noticeable power issues I'll just have to bite the bullet & invest in a 4 car pb, a couple of psu's, digi triggers & chips for my dpr's.

thanks very much lads you've just saved me a couple of hundred quid, seriously. That'll go a hell of a long way towards making the track a permanent one & getting it looking pretty as well.

appreciated very much!
 

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Just my 2 pennies.
I'm in the process of converting to digital and I've bought a Lane Change Challange set on a well known auction site for £60,
This had everything,
Complete track including
2 x CLC
2 x Digital cars
2 x Digital controllers
And a v1.5 6 car PB
£60 is a lot less than you would pay for most new analog sets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah that sounds like a decent enough deal I was actually gonna grab a 2nd hand digital driver set (the one with the minis) from there until I started flapping un-necessarily about power supplies & the track length!

I think we'll just stick with analogue just now and if the weeman gets really into it then its an easy enough upgrade to put in place when the time comes.

He's still really too young to get much benefit from the digital features anyway although one thing that would have been handy is the power limiting thing for novices.

anyone devised any clever work-arounds for analogue setup throttle limiting so the cars don't get launched into orbit at every hairpin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah that sounds like a decent enough deal I was actually gonna grab a 2nd hand digital driver set (the one with the minis) from there until I started flapping un-necessarily about power supplies & the track length!

I think we'll just stick with analogue just now and if the weeman gets really into it then its an easy enough upgrade to put in place when the time comes.

He's still really too young to get much benefit from the digital features anyway although one thing that would have been handy is the power limiting thing for novices.

anyone devised any clever work-arounds for analogue setup throttle limiting so the cars don't get launched into orbit at every hairpin?
 

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1 thing the digital option can offer is connectivity to ssdc, where you could reduce the power to the little ones controllers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE (bigbird @ 3 Dec 2011, 19:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just to be able to run 2 cars more than analouge the expense to go digital is high,you need 4 car pb 2 psu and 4 throttles plus if the cars you have are dpr ready then 4 dpr chips,and last but not least digital lane change sections.

Hi I decided to go digital anyway managed to get 4 digital throttles, 7024 psu & 4 car pb and a couple of lane change sections from eBay really cheap!

but I'm a little confused again now the 4 car pb only has one 15v psu input how do I connect a second 7024 psu to the setup?
 

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Hi Ghost88,

Only just seen this thread so sorry if the advice is a little late!

You don't need more than one PSU for the 4 car power base. Although if you run more powerful motors than the standard ones you may experience power issues.

The 4 car power base does not support analogue cars so every car you run on your setup will have to have a chip installed.

UNLESS you buy a cheap analogue power base and controllers for use when you want to run analogue. If you don't have these - wait until after Christmas when everybody who has received 6 car digital APB's will be dumping their redundant analogue power stuff.

If you take to digital I predict you will be upgrading to the APB within months. The APB takes 2 transformers if you want to run more than 4 cars or run both lanes analogue. The APB allows you to run analogue so you don't need to chip everything. Avoid the curved lane changers as these join both lanes electrically so you can't run both lanes as separate analogue. The straight lane changers are not a problem in this respect. Also with the APB you can change the direction of each analogue lane - it's better to run a digital track in reverse for analogue if you have external light sources that randomly trigger the lane changers as has been known to happen.

As for power taps - you don't need to open up a power supply. Under most straight lane sections you will find there are smaller flanges about 2.8mm (I think) that you can fix connectors to. Use these to connect a straight near your power base to a straight further away where you might experience a power drop. Make sure you connect correctly - the APB has a safe mode to drop into but I don't know about the 4 car base. You can buy these power tap cables online or you could search that famous auction site for cheap spade connectors and make up your own using multi-stranded lighting cable (3 amp) for a LOT less. If you are able - solder the cable to the spade connectors. And if your layout becomes permanent solder the spade connectors to the lugs on the track.

Finally - get some Inox MX3. It is MAGIC. Search Slotforum for Inox and you will see what people say about it. It certainly transformed the performance of my layout. Don't be tempted to use 3in1 or WD40 because it's not the same. It's something to do with the lanolin in the oil - used very sparingly on track and braids all the digital hiccups disappear. I was sceptical but then a racing buddy of mine put some of his Inox MX3 on my track... WHAT a difference. I'm sold.

I had a 4 car powerbase. Now I have an APB with SSDC software and Pit Pro with the extra sensor. I got shot of the 4 car powerbase but kept the analogue powerbase as it now sits in the corner with a sanding block for truing tyres.

There is, as they say, no going back. Enjoy the ride and welcome to slot cars anonymous!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tyvm Mr Modifier understood loud & clear. I've noticed the little clip-on power boost cables since originally posting this thread and got two sets on order.

As long as my 4 car pb with one psu will power 2 digital cars round my 50 foot track then I'll not need to bother upgrading to the apb till after xmas if I've got surge/drop issues I'll have to buy one next week!

I'll now go do some reading on this inox stuff & find out what that's all about.

Cheers, Steve...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh and I've already got a standard analogue powerbase that came with another set. Is it ok to leave this analogue powerbase connected to the digital setup with no psu or triggers connected to it or does it have to be removed?
 

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QUOTE (Ghost88 @ 6 Dec 2011, 16:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is it ok to leave this analogue powerbase connected to the digital setup with no psu or triggers connected to it or does it have to be removed?

No don't do that, likely to be bangs flashes and lots of smoke
 
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