[driver#8]

Hi all,

I've recently got the unpainted body kit of the GTO and a Sebring chassis to plonk it upon. The only thing is that the front body post don't align with the front hole in the chassis very well. The post is about a mil too far forward, so it looks like the sleeve for the screw will have to sit right at the back, sort of hanging over the edge!

Is there a trick I'm missing?

... and, yes, I know that I really, really dislike the Sebring but I'm trying to start from scratch to make it work for me!

Thanks for any suggestions/advice.

 

[driver#8]

It's this one by the way...

 

[Filipinetti]

Hello, not sure if there's a difference in mounting posts here, but I found that the forward post in my shell was slightly short.
Hence I made a somewhat, primitive, sleeve to create the extra length.
Don't know if these photos help any....

By the way the sebring chassis works well in my car, you'll notice I've gone for slot.it offset gears and PCS wheel/tyre combo. Also, removed a pair of the securing nut/bolts to stretch the chassis slightly.

Hope this helps in some way.
If you need any more pics let me know.
Cheers
Phil

 

[driver#8]

Awesome thanks Phil

Yes the front post is short, even the MRRC wheels are rubbing. Does that sleeve sit around the post - and what do your screws go into - it is the little black widgets in the pack, isn't it?

 

[pace1970uk]

If you're not keen on the Sebring chassis have you considered using the GOM chassis as an alternative? The GOM chassis, which seems to be the very similar to the MRRC Ferrari 275 one, has the same wheelbase and chassis mounts as the Ferrari 250 (though a little work needs to be done on the front mounting post).

Here's the GTO LM I did using the GOM chassis

 

[driver#8]

Good thought, thanks Pace! Although I'm ginding GOM bits rather hen's teeth-ish these days, did you stock up?

 

[pace1970uk]

GOM spares certainly are a bit scarce these days, but the GOM Alfa GTV chassis is still available under the 'tune up' section of Pendles. It's a very handy chassis for a lot of the resin kits they do.

 

[Filipinetti]

Right-ho, after a quick check to confirm my thoughts, my mounting posts have a brass insert in them for the screws.
The plastic tube acts more as a spacer than a sleeve, it being the same internal diameter as the mounting post's insert.
Thinking about it, I'd probably do it differently now (the model is over 3 years old) but it's worked nicely so far and I'm loathe to change it for change sake.
Not sure what the the little black widgets are you mention, I don't recall having any with mine, but then I don't remember where the chassis came from in the first place!

Sorry I can't be of more help.
Cheers
Phil

 

[driver#8]

OK so you're probably thinking that there's a village somewhere missing its idiot. However... here's what I've got in terms of pieces. I thought the little black widgets were sort of rawl plugs for the body screws, and the various thicknesses govern how high body is off the chassis.

Otherwise those are going to be industrial screws needed to fill the bare posts.

The thing is that you have to put the 'rawl plug' right at the back of the front post to get a glimpse of it through the hole in the chassis.

All suggestions welcome.

 

[driver#8]

Using the little black widgets I've managed to get the body seated how I want it, but don't want to commit to glueing them if I'm getting it wrong.

Found this pic of someone's recent build of the kit out-of-the-box and the front post looks much better aligned.

Any ideas gratefully received.

 

[Filipinetti]

Problem solved, check the other forum where you've asked this question

 

[driver#8]

Thanks Phil... they say two heads are better than one. When it comes to dealing with the Sebring chassis, however... the more the merrier!