I have a Revo Porsche, Toyota, and Marcos. The Toyota and Marcos are reasonably quiet with a minor whine, but the Porsche road noise is bad. I've added gaskets at the connection points - I think its a tire-wheel noise. The QS tires are quiet on the Toyota and Marcos, but I think the wheels on the Porsche are a little different. Besides the QS's, I've tried BRM and Supertire ST2A. I think I'll try ST6A to give a little more cushion between wheel and tire. Any other tries i should try?
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Thanks crustypop, TonyA, and Albion.
TonyA: from early replies, I'm resonably confident gear noise is not my main problem. None of my three Revos are whisper quiet gear-wise - but the Porsche is probably the quietest in this respect. But when you put the Porsche on the track, the road noise is exorbitant - but the other two are not. I would like the Plafit pinion spec to try - after I go after road noise, if you wouldn't mind posting
crustypop: there was a video on this or another forum about putting gaskets or rubber/foam washers at metal-to-metal contact points on the Revos. I did this with the Porsche - to no avail. As part of this process, I think I have the screws reasonably tight, but will double check. After that, I will try bearings, axle, tires. After that I may try new wheels or swap some over from the Marcos or Toyota - I think I'll go try that this morning.
Albion: I replaced the stock tires with Quick Slicks for Revo (TS43 and RS75) on all three Revos. This improved handling immensely on all three, but not Road noise on the Porsche. I think I have the old Porsche, so I have another set of RS75's ordered to try. I also have some ST1501's (also for Revo) ordered - these have a slightly larger OD and I hope will help muffle road noise - along with the new bearings and axle mentioned above.
Thanks all! Let me know if there's another try I'm missing.
TonyA: from early replies, I'm resonably confident gear noise is not my main problem. None of my three Revos are whisper quiet gear-wise - but the Porsche is probably the quietest in this respect. But when you put the Porsche on the track, the road noise is exorbitant - but the other two are not. I would like the Plafit pinion spec to try - after I go after road noise, if you wouldn't mind posting
crustypop: there was a video on this or another forum about putting gaskets or rubber/foam washers at metal-to-metal contact points on the Revos. I did this with the Porsche - to no avail. As part of this process, I think I have the screws reasonably tight, but will double check. After that, I will try bearings, axle, tires. After that I may try new wheels or swap some over from the Marcos or Toyota - I think I'll go try that this morning.
Albion: I replaced the stock tires with Quick Slicks for Revo (TS43 and RS75) on all three Revos. This improved handling immensely on all three, but not Road noise on the Porsche. I think I have the old Porsche, so I have another set of RS75's ordered to try. I also have some ST1501's (also for Revo) ordered - these have a slightly larger OD and I hope will help muffle road noise - along with the new bearings and axle mentioned above.
Thanks all! Let me know if there's another try I'm missing.
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9,127 Posts
Just did mine on the weekend. Had no major issues but the pans on the chassis rattled no matter what.
I used the advised gorilla tape 4 tiny square pieces and shaved on the outer edges of the chassis. Just to cover the space where the screws go through and then make sure to punch out the hole and ensure there is no tape in the hole,,, very important. This got rid of the unwanted noise right away. There was a bit of tire noise but it disappeared shortly after. Even trued tires of the urethane or rubber will find their own sweet spot after a few laps.
Bob
I used the advised gorilla tape 4 tiny square pieces and shaved on the outer edges of the chassis. Just to cover the space where the screws go through and then make sure to punch out the hole and ensure there is no tape in the hole,,, very important. This got rid of the unwanted noise right away. There was a bit of tire noise but it disappeared shortly after. Even trued tires of the urethane or rubber will find their own sweet spot after a few laps.
Bob
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5,774 Posts
We run on wood tracks and if the wheels/tires/axles have any runout you can clearly hear a drumming noise. I only have one RevoSlot car and that is a Toyota GT-One. The body and pod screws are slightly loose and I have some packing tape across the chassis and pod. The car makes almost no noise at all beyond a slight rattle. Normally I glue the tires and true them using a Hudy machine, but I have been using the car to evaluate some special prototype tires. Some of the tires can't be trued, so I have been testing all of the tires "as is". A very soft tire will make less noise and may even help to dampen noises that originate elsewhere, however soft tires will create extra drag and actually bog the car down.
One experiment that you might try is to swap the wheels and tires from another car.
One experiment that you might try is to swap the wheels and tires from another car.
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3,712 Posts
Gents, as I'm digging deeper and deeper into the Revoslot range...here's met 2 cts.
Unfortunately the only Revoslot I don't have in my personal stock is the Porsche GT2, I did do some test runs with the Porsche GT2 and I do have all the rest of the cars.
So far I've tested them on wood, Carrera and Ninco tracks.
What you do have to take into account is that all Revoslot cars, by design, run and rest on all 4 wheels.
( the design philosophy being that, as they are heavier cars, running on ballbearing axles/wheels gives less resistance than running on the guide)
As such having all wheels, axles bearings etc etc aligned, square and all 4 tyres treud is more important than on your regular plastic chassied cars.
Another difference with the Revo chassis is that the motor holder can be moved closer to and further from the rear axle. No need for fixed diameter pinions and gears, but...
...it also means that the motor can be rotated slightly, so checking and setting the motor position is also more important to maintain a good mesh than on plastic chassied cars.
Last but not least, the fact that Revoslot cars have aluminium chassis doesn't mean you shouldn't check if they're flat and straight.
During fabrication they are machined, handled and assembled by humans....so same room for error and deformation as with plastic chassied cars.
Now Revoslot has a pretty good reputation for quality control, but as tolerances on the metal chassis are tighter than on plastic cars, small deformations have bigger consequences.
With the Porsche GT2 being the "oldest" design in the range there are some differences from all the other cars that can cause more noise, vibration rattle etc etc.
1 They were released with narrower rear wheels and tyres and these are more prone to deformation in the corners.
2 Early versions had a tighter opening for the motor and lacked the motor shim that is now stock on all Revo cars. Without the spacer the motor can start to give vibrations to the chassis.
3 The Porsche GT2 is one of but 2 chassis where the rear screws are mounted through a hole in the bedpans.. not a sliding slot as with most other cars. (The other chassis being the new Porsche GT1)
4 The Porsche GT2 has the shortest wheelbase (70,6 mm) of all Revoslot cars. So if all 4 wheels are not perfectly round it will hop earlier than longer wheelbase cars.
5 The Porsche GT2 also has the shortest guidebase (82,5 mm) of all Revoslot cars...but the guide sticks out further in front of the front axle than most other Revoslot cars, same consequences as with item 4.
Noise, resonance, vibration is usually the result of imbalance or tension building up and being released.
As RichD mentioned a common setup trick is to loosen the Bed pan screws, which gives the body some float.. improves handling and can reduce noise.
Last but not least, a drop of oil where you guys put tape can also work wonders.
For those running a Porsche GT2, let me assure you that things will get better the longer your run your cars, more metal parts on the chassis just means that running them in..takes longer.
In some of the clubs that have been running Revoslots for some time..the Porsche GT2's definitely can hold their ground with the other GT2's.
Hope this helps
With kind regards
Tamar
Unfortunately the only Revoslot I don't have in my personal stock is the Porsche GT2, I did do some test runs with the Porsche GT2 and I do have all the rest of the cars.
So far I've tested them on wood, Carrera and Ninco tracks.
What you do have to take into account is that all Revoslot cars, by design, run and rest on all 4 wheels.
( the design philosophy being that, as they are heavier cars, running on ballbearing axles/wheels gives less resistance than running on the guide)
As such having all wheels, axles bearings etc etc aligned, square and all 4 tyres treud is more important than on your regular plastic chassied cars.
Another difference with the Revo chassis is that the motor holder can be moved closer to and further from the rear axle. No need for fixed diameter pinions and gears, but...
...it also means that the motor can be rotated slightly, so checking and setting the motor position is also more important to maintain a good mesh than on plastic chassied cars.
Last but not least, the fact that Revoslot cars have aluminium chassis doesn't mean you shouldn't check if they're flat and straight.
During fabrication they are machined, handled and assembled by humans....so same room for error and deformation as with plastic chassied cars.
Now Revoslot has a pretty good reputation for quality control, but as tolerances on the metal chassis are tighter than on plastic cars, small deformations have bigger consequences.
With the Porsche GT2 being the "oldest" design in the range there are some differences from all the other cars that can cause more noise, vibration rattle etc etc.
1 They were released with narrower rear wheels and tyres and these are more prone to deformation in the corners.
2 Early versions had a tighter opening for the motor and lacked the motor shim that is now stock on all Revo cars. Without the spacer the motor can start to give vibrations to the chassis.
3 The Porsche GT2 is one of but 2 chassis where the rear screws are mounted through a hole in the bedpans.. not a sliding slot as with most other cars. (The other chassis being the new Porsche GT1)
4 The Porsche GT2 has the shortest wheelbase (70,6 mm) of all Revoslot cars. So if all 4 wheels are not perfectly round it will hop earlier than longer wheelbase cars.
5 The Porsche GT2 also has the shortest guidebase (82,5 mm) of all Revoslot cars...but the guide sticks out further in front of the front axle than most other Revoslot cars, same consequences as with item 4.
Noise, resonance, vibration is usually the result of imbalance or tension building up and being released.
As RichD mentioned a common setup trick is to loosen the Bed pan screws, which gives the body some float.. improves handling and can reduce noise.
Last but not least, a drop of oil where you guys put tape can also work wonders.
For those running a Porsche GT2, let me assure you that things will get better the longer your run your cars, more metal parts on the chassis just means that running them in..takes longer.
In some of the clubs that have been running Revoslots for some time..the Porsche GT2's definitely can hold their ground with the other GT2's.
Hope this helps
With kind regards
Tamar
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1,315 Posts
Perrotoro - which new wheels did you get for the Porsche? Did you go with a wider wheel? It's something I want to do to mine.
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2,680 Posts
Hi Bob
is there a link to the tip about 4 tiny squares of Gorilla tape - with pictures so I can see where they go.... thanks David
I have the RS109W coming - same as stock wheels I think. I'm just thinking there may be some imbalance with the stock wheels that came with the car.
Skip to about 9m 40s - Bunnings sell the Gorilla tape - might have to grab some.
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9,689 Posts
Yeah, skip and cut to the chase because if you watch the whole, soporific thing leading up to nine-forty you'll be comatose and miss it.😴
Still, at least he didn't start with, 'Hey guys! Don't forget to click Like and Subscribe!'
Still, at least he didn't start with, 'Hey guys! Don't forget to click Like and Subscribe!'
At the slot car centre that I race at in Melbourne, Australia we run the Revos with Slot.It foam tyres and we run on a wood track with spray glue.Since fitting the Plafit pinion the car has run quieter and has actually picked up a bit of speed as the diameter of the pinion is larger than the Revo brass pinion
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3,712 Posts
I've posted a new topic in the Events Subforum, might be an interesting read for those interested in RevoSlot...and certainly sheds more light on what I've been up to lately and how I got involved in RevoSlot cars.
Here's the link to the topic "New" initiative, RevoSlot "Back to the 90's" Endurance Series. Feel free to copy"
With kind regards
Tamar
Here's the link to the topic "New" initiative, RevoSlot "Back to the 90's" Endurance Series. Feel free to copy"
With kind regards
Tamar
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12,527 Posts
It's something you need to try for yourself, I prefer tape under the chassis, others don't, others prefer rubber 'o'rings, others prefer a milling machine.
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223 Posts
Hey all, on another Revo matter.....it is mentioned in the video that to free up the front axle spin, you need to back off the set screw on the front. Now, I may be missing something here, but I've just got myself one of the new Porsche GT2 models (JPS) & yes, the front axle seems very tight in the mount & does not spin freely. However, I don't seem to see any adjustable screws (apart from the grub screws in the wheels) that would allow me to back the tightness off.
I haven't had a chance to dig out my Revo Marcos to compare the two yet, but what is it I'm not seeing here ?
Striking looking car though BTW !
cheers all
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223 Posts
OK, I might have answered part of my own question....but another question remains. Look like one version of the Revo chassis does have adjustable screws in the axle mounts (see photo below)
![]()
However, the chassis on the new GT2 does not have these screws (see 2nd photo)
![]()
Which begs the question, how is the axle on the 2nd chassis adjusted ?
cheers
However, the chassis on the new GT2 does not have these screws (see 2nd photo)
Which begs the question, how is the axle on the 2nd chassis adjusted ?
cheers
Attachments
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3,712 Posts
Hello Malomay
The image of the chassis with the "adjustable" front axle mounts comes from this topic by fellow SF member epilot.
They are custom 3DP parts he developed for his Revoslot Porsche GT2, they are not original Revoslot parts (although you thinking they were is a compliment for epilot's work)
Its a design that although well executed, I.m.o. has one major flaw. When using ball bearings on an axle perfect alignement is key to proper operation.
If not aligned properly they will bind on the axle and all advantage over an olite bearing or even no bearing at all will be lost.
Perfect alignement of the two bearings with just 4 grubscrews... will be hard to achieve.
Which brings me to the second part of your question.
That chassis has the stock axle mounts, "precision" milled from aluminium. To ensure/maintain alignment there are but two ways to alter the axle height.
Note: Its part off the Revoslot "design philosophy" to release all cars/chassis with the same generous amount of ground clearance.
This is how they managed to keep the performance of all the Revoslot car "on par".
The cars are also intended/ designed to run on all 4 wheels with the sprung guide maintaining contact with (and making up for any differences in height of) the track rails/braids.
So there far less need to change the height of the front axle as there is on "plastic " 1/32 chassis.
With kind regards
Tamar
The image of the chassis with the "adjustable" front axle mounts comes from this topic by fellow SF member epilot.
They are custom 3DP parts he developed for his Revoslot Porsche GT2, they are not original Revoslot parts (although you thinking they were is a compliment for epilot's work)
Its a design that although well executed, I.m.o. has one major flaw. When using ball bearings on an axle perfect alignement is key to proper operation.
If not aligned properly they will bind on the axle and all advantage over an olite bearing or even no bearing at all will be lost.
Perfect alignement of the two bearings with just 4 grubscrews... will be hard to achieve.
Which brings me to the second part of your question.
That chassis has the stock axle mounts, "precision" milled from aluminium. To ensure/maintain alignment there are but two ways to alter the axle height.
- By mounting a different height/size of axle mount. (expected to become available in the future)
- By adding (and or removing) Shimms under the axle mounts. (expected to become available in the future)
Note: Its part off the Revoslot "design philosophy" to release all cars/chassis with the same generous amount of ground clearance.
This is how they managed to keep the performance of all the Revoslot car "on par".
The cars are also intended/ designed to run on all 4 wheels with the sprung guide maintaining contact with (and making up for any differences in height of) the track rails/braids.
So there far less need to change the height of the front axle as there is on "plastic " 1/32 chassis.
With kind regards
Tamar
Joined
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3,712 Posts
Hello Trisha
Dry and whining when oiled...sounds like the mesh and or alignement between the motor(pinion) and rear axle(gear) is off. Disassemble and start over.
By now we've 'Blueprinted' ten cars and they're all running smooth and true, no gear whine at all.
With proper cleaning and oil, the axles in the ball bearings keep spinning, and spinning and...
For those with a general interest in RevoSlot cars and how to prep them...
I've created an album on our FB page with pictures and accompanying text (in Dutch and English) on how the RevoSlot cars are blueprinted for the Series.
You will have click on "see more" and scroll down to get to the English text...but they're there
![innocent.gif]( "innocent.gif")
![118688470_128104549007001_11549295211858]( "118688470_128104549007001_11549295211858")
With kind regards
Tamar
Dry and whining when oiled...sounds like the mesh and or alignement between the motor(pinion) and rear axle(gear) is off. Disassemble and start over.
By now we've 'Blueprinted' ten cars and they're all running smooth and true, no gear whine at all.
With proper cleaning and oil, the axles in the ball bearings keep spinning, and spinning and...
For those with a general interest in RevoSlot cars and how to prep them...
I've created an album on our FB page with pictures and accompanying text (in Dutch and English) on how the RevoSlot cars are blueprinted for the Series.
You will have click on "see more" and scroll down to get to the English text...but they're there
With kind regards
Tamar
Joined
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79 Posts
It should also be noted that these bearings become loose in the bearing/axle mounts over time. They will move in and out and spin in the holders. Without going into too much detail, and with the disclaimer "this is for advanced tuners, this is not recommended for everyone", I slide the bearing about half way out of the holder, put a small drop of ca glue on the top of the bearing using a toothpick and quickly and carefulIy slide it back into it's holder so they stay true and aligned. This must be done very quickly and carefully. Any CA glue in the bearing will obviously negate thier performance advantages. I set the bearings this way on all 4 corners prior to doing any other setup work. Loctite would also work well for this application and would give you a bit more time to get things aligned as it takes a little longer to set. The bearings fit quite well so very little ca glue or Loctite needs to be used to take up the fraction of space required to secure these bearings permanently.
Warning - Do Not get any CA Glue or Loctite in the bearings should you try this!
If your eye sight is poor and your hands shake, maybe skip this procedure all together.
![unsure.png]( "unsure.png")
Cheers
Warning - Do Not get any CA Glue or Loctite in the bearings should you try this!
If your eye sight is poor and your hands shake, maybe skip this procedure all together.
Cheers
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