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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm off to Bordeaux in June for the Vintage Slot Race where the rules require entries to be for slot cars and parts made in the 1960s.

I needed a 1/24 and 1/32 for the two classes and decided to go the scratchbuild/kitbash route rather than the easier option of taking along one of my ready to run cars.

For me the Lola T70 was one of those racing cars from my teenage years that just looked absolutely stunning, the designer got the shape just "right". A cheaper alternative to using an original slot body which are a bit pricey was to get one of Charlie Fitzpatrick's excellent "Classic" fibreglass shells. Now I know this is a new shell but Bordeaux will be happy with it as the mould dates to the mid 1960s. How would I have got through model-making/slot racing all these years without this man's superb products?

It promptly arrived in the post a couple of days after ordering it - the usual good service - and I was very pleased to see he had captured the elegant slippery lines perfectly, great motivation for getting this project moving.

I make no excuses for emphasising the products of Classic and Betta their bodyshells are accurate, lightweight and they are nice people to do business with. The first thing to do was the usual cutting out of the wheelarches, vents etc and a checkover of the surface for small imperfections which would need cleaning up and filling.


Here is the shell after basic clean up being test fitted to the chassis.

Having said how elegant the shape of the T70 is I finally decided to model the John Surtees 1966 Can Am Championship winning car which was fitted with big spoilers front and rear - a shame really but it's also an opportunity to do a bit more model-making.

My method to make spoilers that can survive slot car shunts is to cut a slot along the line of the spoiler on the nose - do this by referring to photographs and draw a pencil line as a guide - keep checking the photographs, rubbing out and re-drawing and when you are satisfied it's in the right place you're ready to cut the slot.


Spoiler slot cut into the nose.

I drill a series of pilot holes about 2 or 3 mm apart with my Dremel along the line and then very lightly and carefully draw the drill along the line of holes which gradually opens up the material between the pilot holes and forms the slot. As you get used to this technique you will be surprised how quickly you can do this - I took about 10 minutes doing the Lola.

I cut right through the shell so that I can slide a piece of plastic card right into the slot. This gives the spoiler it's strength, then draw the shape of the spoiler in pencil on the card using the reference photographs. Cut the spoiler to shape and clean up with wet and dry.


Body and Spoiler ready for fitting

The spoiler can be glued in with just a minimal amount of adhesive as it's already located with a strong push fit. The rear spoiler is just a sheet cut to shape and glued on the rear of the car and although it's not so strongly attached it's much easier than the front to glue back on after the inevitable shunt. Actually at this stage I hadn't glued them in place but I checked I was happy with the look of the two spoilers and I could get back to finishing the clean up of the bodyshell.


Both Spoilers in place

I was happy with the accuracy so I could move onto the next stage which I'll tell you about in a future message and I'll also tell you about my choice of chassis and motor.

David
 

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Great way to start the week, David! Thanks for that. I'm looking forward to following progress. If I can spare any time from my P68.....
 

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Russell Sheldon
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David, having seeing pictures of some of your excellent work before, I'm really looking forward to following the progress you make on this one!

It already looks more accurate than the Proto Slot version:-





With kind regards

Russell
 

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David,
Excellent work! Looks like Bordeaux is going to be very tough this year - and lots of fun!

I also have the feeling we're going to have a bunch of Lola T-70s and Chaparrals; anybody planning something a little weirder?

The Betta does look very nice too; I have their MkIII, but didn't know that they made the roadster. It looks nicer than my K&B or Palmer as well - would love to find a Monogram, but don't have the $400 it takes...

Looking forward to your chassis pics.
Don
 

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Russell Sheldon
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"....would love to find a Monogram, but don't have the $400 it takes..."

Don, drop me a line....

Regards

Russell
 

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Actually,of all of them,the Monogram looks least accurate to me.It looks too wide and slightly over scale,which was unusual for Monogram from that era.
 

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Peter Farrell
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Hello out there
Where can I find the regs for the Bodeaux Race? I have a few Chassis with bodies from my time racing in the 60's all with scratch built brass chassis and wide (handling) bodies most with group 20 motors (Champion & Mura) still in place and still screaming. Or am I too late?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello Alfetta - I think the entry is full for this year they have capped it at 50 but here's the link to the Bordeaux site http://fx.bernagaud.free.fr/ Sammy is the man to talk to or if like me your French is non existent then Don Seigel is also involved in the event.

Don - I think originally it was for Can Am hence the Lolas and McLarens but unfortunately they've now opened it up to all sports cars, I wanted to do a 2H with all the extreme wings and aerofoils but the cut off for the race is 1969 unfortunately.

Russell - I like Protoslot's previous work but the Lola T70 is too chubby in the middle and loses the elegance of the real car.

David
 

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Peter Farrell
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Thank you David. I was expecting to be too late. However I'm sure there will be other events, all I need to do is keep my ears and eyes open. I should like them to be run in anger again.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After the spoilers I had to finish the rubbing down and do some filling which is one of those jobs I like somedays - I sort of drift off into a world of my own, I imagine it is the same state of mind people get when basket weaving - and somedays I hate it with a passion. This was a bit of a pain as the rear engine cover area took ages to get smooth but Milliput, wet & dry and elbow grease got me there. I had to rescribe the panel lines before the painting stage.



After a spray with Halfords Volkswagen Mars Red it was the dreaded masking up for the Team Surtees arrow design. My partner will testify just how much swearing occurred during this. Masking is another of those love/hate jobs for me, anyway several paper templates later and some swearing, cutting masks with a scalpel and some more swearing and I was desperate for a coffee - problem was no one could get near the kettle for fear of disturbing the "artist at work". Gareth was called in from the garden (remember, he is building the Earls Hall Park track summerhouse) to drag me away from the kettle area of the kitchen so we could all relax for a while.



Anyway after a coffee and a chat I had calmed down and managed to get all the various masks in place, lined up, conforming to the compound curves and around the radiator extractor vent area and then covered the rest of the body against overspray. Finally I was ready to spray the white stripe and then had to suffer the nerve wracking wait to remove the masks to see if there had been any of the dreaded paint bleed under the tape.

Oh the stress of this model-making lark - I'll let you know how it turns out when the paints dried.

David
 

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Judging by the tape It looks as if David has used non-stick
tape. What I mean is it's designed not to lift the paintwork underneath. I've got some similar, but it's coloured pink!

All we can do is wait.... excellent job so far Daivd


Mark.
 

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I picked up a neat tip from somewhere...
Do all the masking, but before applying top colour, spray with clear coat. That seals the edges and prevents any 'bleed'. Takes a lot of the worry out of the whole operation...
By the way- I think Maxi-Models can supply a very nice white-metal casting of that side inlet Chevvy motor. Max supplies it with his M6A kit, but I believe you can buy it separately. Don't tell him but I made a resin cast of it to save weight (how anal can you get?), but that allowed me to make another cast for my Lola as well.
Great work David. I'm on tenter hooks to see the end result.
What colours are you using, by the way? Always difficult to judge reds. As the comic books say.
Whose going to try any of the wackier Can-Am Lola paint jobs? There's a lot of potential out there......
 

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QUOTE (howmet tx @ 16 Mar 2004, 11:17)I picked up a neat tip from somewhere...
Do all the masking, but before applying top colour, spray with clear coat. That seals the edges and prevents any 'bleed'. Takes a lot of the worry out of the whole operation...

What colours are you using, by the way? Always difficult to judge reds. As the comic books say.
Doesn't that leave clear coat all over the area you want to paint? Does it matter?

A bit of politics creeping in to the post about reds eh?


Mark.
 

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QUOTE (Difflock @ 16 Mar 2004, 11:06)Judging by the tape It looks as if David has used non-stick
tape. What I mean is it's designed not to lift the paintwork underneath. I've got some similar, but it's coloured pink!
Mark, the trick is to leave greasy finger prints (gah, you sold them to howmet already) all over the shell. I'd suggest having some nice buttery toast for breakfast before painting. That should do the trick. Then you will find that the paint lifts quite easily even if you use that nice expensive Tamiya stuff.
 

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Yes and no!

Tes, you get a thin clear coat under the areas you are going to paint, but no, it doesn't matter at all. Don't use floor polish though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
JohnP and Difflock - I tend to use Tamiya masking tape as it doesn't pull the base coat off - famous last words.

I like the lacquer trick Howmet, I'll use that in future. I'm with you on the Max Winter engine detail kit and it is already on order, I've also ordered one of his cockpit kits for a resin recast of a Vac Form M8B that I'm doing but that's another story. I used Volkswagen Mars Red for the Lola which might be a touch too bright but I like the colour, Halfords Radiant Red might be more accurate.

Talking of wackier paint jobs, I heard about a Led Zeppelin sponsored Can Am McLaren and thought this was a must do until I found a photo of the original and was so disappointed with it's boring scheme - a real missed opportunity there.

David
 

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For a scheme like that,I would deffinately have done the body white oevrall first.actuallyI probably would have used white primer and totaly eliminated one step.

Then all you have to do is mask the arrow itself,which makes the masking job HUGELY Simpler.Also with virtually no risk of lifting the paint with the tape.

And yes,spraying the clearcoat along taped edges does work just fine.
 

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Russell,
Tried to send you an email message, but I must have an old address and it didn't go through.... There's a message for you in your Slot Forum box...

Thanks for all the painting and masking tips guys - think I'll try to find a solid color scheme for this car!
Don
 
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