[zipp]

OK, after seeking advice from you guys on a couple of issues, i have now created a little test track to get a feel for routed tracks.
My plan is for a three lane affair on an area of 12'x4'. i have it all mapped out, but thought it may be an idea to try a smaller (4'x2') to get into the groove

.
First i edged off the perimeter of the board by 3" to allow for tail slide action, and drew my circuit inside this.

i now know that i need at least a 4" perimeter to accommodate the longer cars.
Next i needed something to route up against to do the curves. I found a piece of hose and placed screws in it every 2" or so. I smeared a bit of vaseline around the edge to aid against friction, and then screwed it in place.

To my suprise this worked really well. i then joined the curves up using a length of wood as my guide.

I was able to route the whole circuit with the dremel with relative ease.
I then sanded down the holes where the screws had been and use some wood filler to make good. Sandpaper around the end of a lollystick was used to tidy the slot up.

Next the copper tape was applied. The start of the tape was placed in a small chiseled groove where the power was to be attached, and the end finished up in the same groove. A bit of solder on top to bond it all together, and we were on our way.

I then sabotaged a Scaley Sport power base, and connected it to the power taps. (nearly there)

Circuit direction change is simply done by switching two wires over in the chocolate block.

i got the local pro to test it for me

it passed his quality control tests

so the job was a good' un.
I painted inside the slot, which was a little tricky, but good practice for planned the three laner.

I have enjoyed myself creating this test track, and am looking forward to starting the project proper soon. i will experiment with some surface paint and maybe some scenery.
I have now invested in a router, as the dremel would be a little tedious for the big one, so this should make things easier?

 

[JohnP]

Brilliant job zipp - from now on I'll be coming to you for advice!

 

[zipp]

JohnP

could'nt have done it without your help, and the great resources found on this site

i will update this thread when i get some paint down and barriers ect...

 

[BEEJAY7]

Very nice work. Great to see so many people starting on routed tracks.

Very sensible idea to try out a test track first...

Regards

Alan

 

[zipp]

I had chance to add some paint this morning.

In another thread, someone suggested using black spray paint, aimed upwards and allowed to settle on the surface to try and rid the track of the sterile grey look.
I think i will give this a try when i get chance.

 

[Slotrace.dk]

Also a good practice track for the youngster!
Well done!

 

[JohnP]

I'm not sure painting the ceiling black would go down well in my household but good luck anyway.

I'm interested to see how far you take this track - with a touch of scenery it might make a nice little rally stage.

 

[taxi]

Great idea to start with a little test track, and very nicely done. Looking forward to the 'real' one!!

cheers,

Rob

 

[Fergy]

Zipp, nice work and a great approach!

If more people tried a little test track like that I think more would go on to build larger tracks that otherwise make them feel overwhelmed. It's also a great way to experiment with different routing methods and finishing techniques.

QUOTE I'm not sure painting the ceiling black would go down well in my household

Yes, JP, those mirrors in the bedroom are a problem.

 

[Willy]

Hey Zipp,
I know that little boy pro tester from somewhere.
Hi to everyone, Zipp has got me hooked for this project, we are starting the next stage of our homemade slot car track career.
We have started a L shaped track, its a 6'x2' with a 3'x2' attached MDF board.
Hopefully we should have some photos to follow.

Willy

 

[zipp]

ayeup willy,
glad to see you have signed up

Talking of joining two boards, has anyone got any close up pics of how the copper tape joins/connects when the two boards to be connected will be disconnected at the end of use for storage

I have a couple of ideas myself, but it is always good to see how others have achieved the same results.

 

[Fergy]

Zipp, when I built my modular track (HO, 60 foot lap, 5 sections), I used a crude, but effective method (I was in a hurry to get it ready for ORS racing). I cut shallow recesses (about .003") in the ends of the pieces so the tape could wrap around to the underside but not affect the module joints, where it was securely held into larger recesses in the underside by means of short screws, which doubled as anchor points for wires which led out to the side of the track pieces. The wires were terminated in phono plugs so that the pieces could be "plugged" into one another, thus completing the electrical circuit (and allowing the modules to be joined in a number of different ways). The modules themselves were physically joined with a simple system of threaded inserts, wood strips, and machine screws.

I'm sure there are far more elegant solutions though.

 

[zipp]

hey fergie,

Thanx for the info

i don't supose you had a camera with you when you did all that??

 

[Fergy]

QUOTE i don't supose you had a camera with you

Hmmm... yes, but the pics are lousy and on my old PC... but I'll see if I can dig them up.

 

[Fergy]

Okay... found the pics... sorry about the quality (old auto 35mm, pre-digital!), but hopefully you'll see what I was talking about. I'd take new pics but the modules are packed away behind tons of stuff in the basement after moving!

In fact, one module got destroyed!

Like I said, it wasn't the most elegant system, but it worked.

Here's the first two modules I built (A and B in the final diagram):

This pic shows the end of one module. You can see how the tape wrapped around to the underside (in very shallow recesses, filed by hand). The white wires are the power feeds for each lane which connect to the next module's leads via male phono plugs and a female-female adapter. The black wire with a joystick-style plug links infrared sensors (photo-transistors) under the track to a PC. The timing bridge contains infrared LEDs and is powered by its own 'wall wart'.

Next pic shows the quick-and-dirty way I interconnected the modules with threaded inserts and wood strips.

Now for the really bad pic! The underside of the module that contains the timing sensors. All module ends have the bottom portion, with the white wires providing the track power feeds. Wires are pinched to the tape conductors via short screws and serrated washers. The wiring is held in the recesses with hot glue and a single screw and washer at the track edge. This pic also shows the timing sensors which were simply pushed into holes drilled through the slot bottom and secured with hot glue. All the recesses were freehand routed to a depth of about 3/16" (5 mm).

Here's a drawing of all five modules - no pics. Module 'E' is the one that was destroyed, with the entire bottom right corner broken off it. Fortunately, the other four modules can still be used for a couple of different designs.

It's nothing too spectacular but hopefully it may give you some ideas of your own.

 

[zipp]

hey thanx fergy

pix always simplify things for me! There are some good pointers for me in the info you have provided

thanx for taking the time

i have had a little play with some paint today.

After painting the surface grey the grip was much improved, too much i thought, so i lightly sanded it down and the slides returned

First i had a play with the black spray paint.
I was really pleased with the effect, so whoever it was that suggested this

it does break up the solid grey nicely.

i tried to make the circuit look like it was originally an oval, and then it has been adapted to incorporate an off road section.

I really like the best line approach that Neo has used on his circuit, so i tried to emulate this at both ends of the oval.

I have also added some barriers at each end, simply by drilling three 6.5mm holes for each barrier lug to fit snugly in.

A bit of red and white paint to resemble curbs

some 6mm dowels, (wooden stakes) to force the drivers around the tight hairpin

and some 15mm plastic pipe cut, painted and glued down, for the tyre walls.

still got plenty of these left to paint!!

so an overview of the track as it is now..

and now thinking about grass, mud, gravel for the infield section.

i must say even on a small track such as this, the way the cars handle without magnets is GrEaT! the tvr pictured is a dog on the scaley sport, but it is real smooth and fun on the test track

 

[JohnP]

That splatter looks terrific - I think uksqueeza originally suggested that idea.

Great job all round zipp - that tiny track looks like big fun

 

[Skeeter]

i cant wait to start my first wooden track now! a take on oldslotracers.com's autocross track. im thinking of combining a track section with some mud/grass sections also, so i cant wait to see what you come up with. this looks like a very nice and tidy track! great to practice those skills, and the art of sliding!

 

[oldslotracer]

Great stuff, zipp...that will encourage more people to try routing. The best part is you did all that for about the price of one slotcar. I like what you're doing with the scenery, too. Got the feeling your next track will be spectacular...

 

[DJ]

Hi Mate,
Track is fantastic, can't believe how good it is for your first attempt. Don't be getting any funny ideas about taking over my loft for the next track!!

I have built the modified track that you designed, it's a cracker (and when you've shown me how I'll put some photo's on here for all to see.)

Later Dude.

DJ