When cutting the slot, the cutter produces a side thrust.
If you are using a side fence to guide the router, make sure you cut the slot in the direction that makes side thrust push the router towards the guide, not away from it.
(When cutting a slot one side is with the rotation of the cutter and the other against it, not certain I've understood your question.)
It's best to practice routing on a few off cuts first so you've got the technique right before starting on the real track.
To remind myself which direction to route I stretch out my right fore finger and thumb and lay them on the top of the router. Your pointer finger points the way and your thumb points to the guide.
Really good idea.........Practice a bit on the back side an get a feel for the new,fun tools
Sorry about your finger stumpy, good luck with your build - look forward to seeing the photos
I might just ask another question here - What type of router bits do people prefer to use, for example would you use the same bit to cut just the slot and then a different bit to cut for the braid or copper tape in a second pass?
Is it possible to buy routing pieces which can do both in a single pass?
QUOTE I might just ask another question here - What type of router bits do people prefer to use, for example would you use the same bit to cut just the slot and then a different bit to cut for the braid or copper tape in a second pass?
Is it possible to buy routing pieces which can do both in a single pass?.
For the slot, use a 1/8" straight bit (3 or 4mm?)
If taping, no other bit is required. The tape is applied along side the slot with about a 1/16" gap.
If using braid, highly suggest a special bit with a pin that follows the slot for routing the gain. If you can't find one locally, we sell them here.
As for a bit that cuts both the slot and the gain at the same time, I have made a bit that could do so. And while it did work, if a mistake was made, it was more work to fix.
A 1/8 inch or a 4mm cutter will do nicely for the slot.
Some builders do a very shallow recess for copper tape, most lay it on the surface without a recess.
A bit which can do both in a single pass is possible. Apparently professional track builders cut the slot, then cut the recess separately, mostly with a special cutter guided by a pin in the slot. The pros are always keen to find quicker ways of producing a good quality product, yet they think its worth taking the extra time for two separate cutters - perhaps we can all learn from that.
There is a cutting speed issue if a combined cutter is used - either the cutter for the slot is rotating too slow or the recess cutter is rotating too fast.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
A forum community dedicated to slot car owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about collections, racing, displays, models, track layouts, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!