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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Has anyone tried sanding or cutting Ninco track?
The reason I'm asking is that I have my track set up as a single lane rally with loops and ice track section but have a problem with the ridge moulded around the edge.
I would like to remove the ridge from the outer edge of the track so my cars can slide out on to the border I have both inside and outside the ice track. I have the ice track set up as 1/2 Sraight, R2 Curve, R1, R2,R1 then 1/2 straight. I get some great slides when going around the inside, up to 90deg with some cars but hane trouble with the outside lane.
At the moment the only one of my 4 cars that can ride the ridge in a slide is not even a rally car (Pionier Mustang). My Autoart Evo de-slots due to the shallow guide if I try to slide it over the ridge and my Mk1 Cortina has very low clearance and grounds on the ridge. The Ninco car that came with the World Rally set will not ride over the ridge.
 

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*** Leo A Capaldi ***
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3,591 Posts
Hello,
I have the same setup !
Like you. the "snow banks" on the white track were a pain, so i used a Stanley Knife to slice them from the outer edge. Using sharp blades, it was easy enough to whittle them away - always cut away from yourself and take great care. I actually ended up painting matt black onto a bit of the R1 bends as it was too slippy.

Kind regards, Leo
 

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I have used a dremel with std. 0.8mm thick cutting disc in it to cut Ninco track in half length-ways a number of time to create single lane pieces, and equivalents of the old rally loop et. Makes for a nice single lane rally or hill climb circuit.
So you could try using that. Pretty easy to control as the high speed disc just cuts like butter, and doesn't "grab"
They clog with melted plastic after a few metres, but hey . . they cost pennies and take about 1 minute to change.
 

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I'm not totally sure I've understood. But I have had some experience with Ninco and "height differences", so to speak.

The idea I had, even if I never realised it, was to quite simply fill depressed areas with paint. Acrylic paint.
Used almost as filler/putty (?) on the whole area, acrylic paint being both more flexible and cheaper.
Depending on level of gloss and added grains (ie sawdust) you can then also get whatever texture you want.

Perhaps this can help?
It wouldn't be as hard on the track pieces as cutting and sawing.
 

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like eric m, i sanded the ninco track. first with an electric vibrating sander, but it got the plastic to hot and wouldn,t touch it. so it was all done by hand with a cork block and 80 grit silicon carbide paper. it turned into a long task and the best you can do is knock all the high spots down. i then literally flooded the track with an acrylic silk paint. i made the inner and outer borders from 9mm mdf painted with the light gray acrylic paint. this was on a standard ninco track. if you want to remove the bump on the borders, i would use a 4in rotary grinder with a coarse floppy disc and light pressure, change the disk to a finer grade and finish with the 80 grit on a rubbing block. the length of a piece of track is dead easy to change. cut out the piece you dont want glue the track back together and solder some wires across the break, it wont melt the plastic if you tin everything first. its important to make an insert [copper brass] for the slot, to hold the plastic in place whilst soldering. john
 

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No, I didn't sand it at all.
Deep depressions from the mould I heated and pressed flat.

But I wanted a track gloss and flat as the Kojak flyght strip, as I use silicone tyres all around (since late 70s), and the rails and slot walls are also slightly raised.
So my thought was to fill out the "Ninco rough" with not filler but acrylic paint. Smooth and even, in one go.
 
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