Yes, believe it or not, but some magnets do have different values of "attraction" if you turn them over. Also, just shim the magnet with a piece of paper between the chassis and magnet to reduce the magnetism. Different magnets also have different magnetic values, so try a few different ones. Or, just run without magnets for a really fun racing experience!
'n Boer maak 'n plan!
My 1955 LeMans Classic cars are run without the magnets for authentic handling.
Curiously, my two Skoda Fabias were supplied with the magnets in 2 different positions, one was in the rearmost of the three slots to choose from on the chassis but the car that handles best (i.e. is not too sticky) is the one that was supplied with the magnet stuck lengthways. Maybe this is what your guy in the shop meant.
I run a Scalextric digital setup with a new APB and SSDC software.
I have 6 transit vans (panel vans) which are based on Scalextirc Ferrari F430's with magnets. I use these to get my guests familiar with the layout.
Then we move to GT's (Ferrari F430, Nissan GTR, Lamborghini Gallardo, Porsche Boxter) with magnets so the racing gets faster and more difficult.
Finally I run six Scalextric Ford Taurus NASCARS (the old ones from the Bash 'n' Crash sets - in line motors etc.) These are run with my own home made urethane tyres (shore 20 so they are really sticky) and NO MAGNETS.
The racing gets slower but much harder - requiring a much smoother driving style and a degree of patience when trying to catch the car in front. The cars slide in a really controllable manner and lane change seamlessly (I used F1 in-car chips to digitise them).
The NASCARS are by far the most challenging drive and, when you get used to them, are the most fun.
So - rather than turn the magnet around - why not throw it away? It's much more fun.
No, turning the magnet around makes no difference whatsoever. That's like saying if you turn a chocolate biscuit upside down then it tastes better
You can buy thin magnets on Ebay and then fill the gap with strong cardboard or styrene as a shim. Make sure you buy magnets of the correct measurement as most Ebay sellers do not fit Scalextric cars even though they say they do.
I found this magnet to be the best for Scalextric track: SLOT.IT SICN02 - MAGNET NEODYMIUM FOR SCALEXTRIC.
It is what they call a "C" shape and I found placing the magnet with the gap facing down towards the rails gave the perfect amount of traction.
This magnet here: SLOT.IT SICN01 - NEODYMIUM MAGNET FOR SCALEXTRIC, I find is about the same as the stock Scalextric bar magnet, so will be to strong for your liking.
I would suggest the SICN02 then, but as I said face it so the gap in the magnet is facing down as it is not as strong this way around.
You may have to file a little plastic around where the magnet fits in the car to get the perfect fit, but this may depend on the car as I know they are not all the same regarding how the magnet is held in, so you may well find the Slot.it magnet will just fit straight in perfectly anyway.
I use this magnet on my Scalextric Porsche 997 C3079 car, and to get the magnet to sit perfectly flat in the magnet position I had to file away around the edges of the slot a little.
I think on your car the magnet just clips in position so you will be able to fit the Slot.it magnet straight in.
Not sure if this is still too powerful of a magnet for you though but for what they cost it has to be worth a try.
Professor Motor also do some gold coloured thinner magnets that are not so powerful, but won't stay in position without gluing or a shim to hold them in place. Also be warned with these PM magnets that they can break in half easily if they are allowed to snap together with another magnet or say the motor can too hard, because they are so thin!!.
I think we are on the right track here.
Further to my post above here is a picture of the Fabias as supplied.
The magnet that is lengthways is not only further forward overall but it also has an insulating layer of self adhesive foam (the type used to stick number plates on real cars) underneath the magnet further reducing its effect.
This lengthways fitting is my preferred set up as the car is quick and grippy whilst also being able to powerslide easily.
I really feel priviledged at receiving all the advice.
It turned out it was not the magnet after all but bulge on the pan below the crown wheel(it was at the same height as the tyres)It prevented the rear wheels from gripping the surface on certain sections of the track.Three strokes with a needle file and Jim Clark in his Cortina is setting records .....
Had the same problem with a Revel Cortina running on Ninco track. car would just stop on some joints in the track, I thought the boldge in the chassis under the motor was catching. Then I tried it without the magnet and problem solved. Also car is mush better to drive without the magnet.
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