[Intergrali]

First off Thanks Adrian!

now having been told to almost completely nit pick the car, I have done so these are my findings!

First off, Congratulations on getting the guide to swivel more than 3 degrees without losing contact

However as usual, I have already thought that once the actual guide wears out not the braids and it is in the middle of an endurance race, what are you supposed to do exactly? you cant simply pull it out and replce with braids!! You have to remove the body, faff about with lots of fiddly screws, then unscrew the guide, then faff about putting it back together (I've found a way around this I will tell later! Now, a suggestion, use a guide like Ninco, simple but effective and K.I.S.S!!!

Now, moving onto screw points, the idea of having the guide screwed in is wonderful, congrats again, so maybe merge the ninco guide idea with the screw idea and oh whoops slot.it already have.. but thats for wood! why not do it for plastic tracks? I DARE you!

Now shuffling along, one thing that irritates the hell out of me is having stupidly short screws ie middle screws on CLK DTM scalex make, however the front and mid. screws on TVR are spot on, no need for huge dock off long ones at the back.. make them all the same size so screwing together doesnt involve swearing and going more insane than dancing in a pitch black room waiting for a film to develop (never again shall I do that!) incidentally I was on my own!

oh yes.. remember those mid mounted motors you used to have.. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go back to those I really wish you would! please mr scalextric! I've had enough of long drive shafts faffing about removing coupling springs and all that polava however at least I havnt managed to pop it out in the flyesq way!!

now rotating along the drive chain, we come the the power to track connection also known as the tyres! very nice and round and round and round oh and sticky too, please dont use sillycones next year please dont! Rubber is much better. also I like the smell of lighter fluid or WD40 on tyres

body work? very nice black is a wonderful colour (attracting all the finger print within a 50 mile radius!) also, please look at Ninco and make your mirrors removeable so that we dont smash them off while racing

would be much appreciated!
Also, movig onto how to get the guide off without unscrewing the body.. see the front part of the bonnet, push it out, now you have access to the guide and improved cooling

yes I did have to have an accident to discover this!
And the rear wing, I cant decide but the writing just doesnt look straight!! not far off but definately not straight!

Braids.. as usual copper please the steel coating wears off or stops them from performing at their maximum.

oh congrats on the solid front axle much appreciated again, but cant we have the sport axles at least?

last but not least, can you stop covering over the gears? it's much easier to oil them with the body on and with a hole where they protrude through the chassis also, whats with the lines on the chassis? cant it be nice and smooth?

Cheers
Rob.

p.s feel free to disagree but this what i found, please post what you think.. and help scalex become better

edit: rr3.9 just reminded me.. wires too stiff, use Fly wires the one good thing about their running gear!

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Sheesh.

I don't hold with all this negativity.

Thing is, and this is the thing, I think after all of the above you are still a happy punter with your Trevor, aren't you?

I know after reading all you've put here I'm still sorely tempted to aquire one. And I HATE TVRs.

Tell me, does that front axle have any travel in it?

 

[Intergrali]

I thought you'd be the last person to say that!!!

not so much travel as sloppyness.. although it is a solid axle!

try one, worth the money, looks nice anyway!

Inte.

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Tsch, I thought it was just the Yanks that didn't get irony.

Try one? Well I keep bidding on Ebay and losing out. Soon, soon...

 

[Intergrali]

funny how sarcasm just doesnt cross on the board!!

INTe.

 

[Intergrali]

Right, went to Preston today to race on the old Deeside Board track

and very nice it is too.. also i took the TVR..

well initial impressions were that it was a little tall and a little thin, once on the track though most were impressed with the out the box performance, I had moved the bar mag forwards earlier in the week as an experiment however, this has no altered the performance on the board track, and produced good laps, only really topping out on the main stright.

The tyres provided excellent levels of grip surpassing slot its standard, damn just thought of something now.. never mind too late.

after lending it about as requested a few said "I have to get one.. and soon!" many said they were impressed with it's out the box performance on the board track and few had negative feedback barring the physical shape/size. The only gripe was that the braids wore perticularly faster than on the R8 we were using which had slot it super soft braid, and a vrrrb as we guess the chassis rubbed on something on the track.. going to look into it bit later once I have dragged myself out my seat..

speaking of Seats that reminds me of my idea for a work seat.. RS Turbo Recaro bolted onto the gas height adj. base I have.. should be good fun fitting it! sitting in a car seat while truing tyres.. what an experience!

Inte.

p.s yes I think I'm going slightly insane, dancing in dark rooms, racing without magnutz and rewinding motors in my spare time.. pub should keep me sane BYE!

 

[Intergrali]

more..

Adrian, PLEASE make the guide connections avaliable and please use more flexible wire, I have already had to put my head together to develop a guide mod since on side of the clamp thing broke

er, detail is nice too, however why are there two "R"'s moulded on the bonnet?
Cant get a pick, they are under the Texaco coming down the bonnet!

Inte

 

[Adrian Norman]

Inte,
The 'R's on the bonnet are the bonnet clips. It's not just a tampo print either, they are raised in profile and feel like clips.

Just to clarify the question of the new guide blade system for those readers who may have missed it. The braid plate is easily changed without having to remove the body or any other parts. The braid plate clips off the guide blade and a new braid plate is easily pushed on in its place.
More info at this link to the Scalextric website:

http://www.scalextric.co.uk/pages/nws_det_...t_currentPage=1

I'll let Inte add some more of his findings and I'll try to answer all the points together.

Happy Racing or Collecting,
Adrian Norman
Scalextric Enthusiasts Web Community
Hornby PLC

 

[Intergrali]

oh right.. oops! they should be silver like the others!!!

also, why is the tampo print raised? if anyone has one, run your finger over a large tampo print and you will notice it is slightly raised!

Inte.

p.s going to wrexham tonight

 

[Wankel Ickx]

QUOTE The 'R's on the bonnet are the bonnet clips

[West country accent]
Oh RRRRs!

 

[moped rider]

This car is a Scaley one Intie.

Look at it through Scaley eyes and not Ninco eyes.

Your list makes for an interesting read but some of the points raised have already been answered by Adrian in another forum as you know (screw lengths???), and some of the points (raised tampo???) are benefits of Scalextric ownership.

I want my Scaley cars to be Scaley cars not Ninco cars.

Ninco are slowly but surely bringing their cars up to Scaley standard (Mitsubishi Pajero - that could easily have a "Scalextric" label on it). (Integrale =

)

Moped

 

[Tropi]

With respect, what may be mentioned in other forums has no relevance to content printed here, in this one.
Slot Forum is here to inform its own readers as fully as possible and it would be very remiss to assume that they already knew the information from any other source.
Differing screw-lengths is an important point that definitely warrants mention.
It bothers a lot of people, including me.

 

[Intergrali]

QUOTE Ninco are slowly but surely bringing their cars up to Scaley standard

looking though Scalex eyes again?

QUOTE This car is a Scaley one Intie

Yes I know!

QUOTE Your list makes for an interesting read but some of the points raised have already been answered by Adrian in another forum as you know (screw lengths???), and some of the points (raised tampo???) are benefits of Scalextric ownership

When where what? you mean the evil forum that I hardly read? and whenever I return I get gobloads of abuse?

funnily enough, I only have one set, I know what I like and you knwo what you like, I was told to point out what was wrong, tell you what, send me a Ninco car and I will find just as many faults! dare you..

Inte.

p.s runs better on wood than plexy track

p.p.s mag is better in the forward position

 

[Intergrali]

ok, BSN and I preferred the mag in the middle position even if it did mean sacrificing .7 of a second of laptimes.

Might just have been me, but it was sitting on the 10 secs dead barrier and couldnt go beneith it, we need a 956 with mag to set a benchmark time. However, we had 2 GT3's that were lapping 9.4 and 9.2 in practice. So why's this? we have a couple of cars that are well over a year old design almost thrashing a brand new TVR!

I found there was a little too much magnatration, and the line between grip and off was absolutely NOTHING on my car BSN's Argos set car was better and did slide although he did crash almost as much as me! having already surgically removed his rear wing.. we both also removed the front bonnet as well..

all in all nice car, but could do better, cure? INLINE MOTORS PLEEZE!

I personally cant see or see the point of full interiors in race cars, I would personally see a nice handling car, detail can go around it, like life, fit the most important things in then the little things, it fits better!

Rob.

 

[Wankel Ickx]

Mope, I think Inte's looking with a punter's eyes i.e. he's bought it and wants to give some feedback on areas that the car is failing in.

As the consumers we should not shy from voicing our opinions and dissatisfactions with any and every brand we find wanting.

There is no harm in expressing your contentment with what another perceives as a flawed product. Just as there is no harm whatsoever in having a contrary stance.

 

[Intergrali]

I do intend to review what I have written and pick out the main points and suggest an answer if i have not already

Rob.

 

[moped rider]

I don' find flaws in any product.

Its much better to focus on the strengths.

Raised tampo to me suggests thicker coats of paint. The Ninco Mitsubishi has raised tampo and has a better ovarall finish for it.

Screws. This is not a running problem. Just put paint blobs on the end of the screw to code them for a quick racing pit stop.

Cables. They are normally tucked away in some clips in the chassis to make it all neat and tidy for the pit stop.

Brushes. The coated steel ones last longer don't they? Fewer pit stops required.

Now tell us about the good points Intie.

For a front engined car the TVR seems to go like the clappers relative to similar front engined competition. I like the motor in the front and the Scaley chassis is the tigtest front engined chassis ever!

Cheers
Moped

 

[Mecoprop]

QUOTE I don' find flaws in any product.
Its much better to focus on the strengths.
You aren't clear, whether you don't find flaws because there are none to find or you would deliberately choose to obscure them from a report or review. If it's the latter, I would disagree VERY strongly indeed.

You may think your approach sounds 'positive' but it produces a less than useful conclusion for the reader/potential buyer, who can be distinctly, even acutely, misled by omission of significant facts. This leads to disgruntled readers using words like 'bias' and 'manufacturer collusion' - and that's on a polite day! The 'looking through Scaley eyes' comment sounds rather like a dead giveaway for this conclusion, don't you think?

I think your comments on 'raised' tampos are probably the correct explanation.
Differing length screws are a pain in the neck and, if color coding their heads were a help, then it could and should be introduced as a standard factory procedure. That is good practical feedback. Personally I don't accept that different length screws are ever necessary - it happens because of lack of ingenuity in the design and is avoidable.
Cable clips are an excellent idea.
I heavily favor soft copper braid too - the increased wear rate is insignificant. I think Scalextric might actually be more concerned about kids and animals accidentally ingesting the odd loose copper filament or perhaps receiving the occasional skin puncture. This would seem to be a more logical reason for their choice of material, but I would guess that this particular reason isn't one that they would wish to publicize.

 

[Intergrali]

I found that the tinned braids were harder and more likely to puncture the skin.

However, I have brought up bad points yes, but there are a few all cars have a few but look what I havnt directly commented.. wheels, gears, motor, detail, chassis strength, chassis flex, fitment to body, anything rubbing...

One could soundly assume that these have passed the test, and I am satisfied with them. By no means is anything perfect, I'm not perfect, a car isnt perfect, controllers arent perfect, lap counters arent perfect, If I was being picky, I could say that all of the tyre did touch the ground and that one tyre was .00001 of a mm bigger than the other out the box, but this doesnt matter..

It's a good, not a racer, great for kids though and great for a shelf, by saying that I am not classing anyone as a kid or a collector, it's just my opinion to whom the car is aimed at.. see?

Also, if you dont find flaws, you will never get any better! whats the saying, you learn from your mistakes.....

Inte.
p.s still mulling over my points

 

[SJSlots]

I don't see where Inte said that you had to remove the body to remove the braids. His comment was more of what if the "guide itself broke" in an endurance environment. I can see his point. You would have to take all six screws out and remove the body, then once inside you'd still have to unsrew the guide from its mount and re-attach the replacement guide prior to re-securing all six screws making sure to pay close attention that the long screws went in the rear.

I guess this car wouldn't be a suitable choice then for an eduro.