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Scalex TVR

3956 Views 27 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Intergrali
First off Thanks Adrian!

now having been told to almost completely nit pick the car, I have done so these are my findings!

First off, Congratulations on getting the guide to swivel more than 3 degrees without losing contact
However as usual, I have already thought that once the actual guide wears out not the braids and it is in the middle of an endurance race, what are you supposed to do exactly? you cant simply pull it out and replce with braids!! You have to remove the body, faff about with lots of fiddly screws, then unscrew the guide, then faff about putting it back together (I've found a way around this I will tell later! Now, a suggestion, use a guide like Ninco, simple but effective and K.I.S.S!!!

Now, moving onto screw points, the idea of having the guide screwed in is wonderful, congrats again, so maybe merge the ninco guide idea with the screw idea and oh whoops already have.. but thats for wood! why not do it for plastic tracks? I DARE you!

Now shuffling along, one thing that irritates the hell out of me is having stupidly short screws ie middle screws on CLK DTM scalex make, however the front and mid. screws on TVR are spot on, no need for huge dock off long ones at the back.. make them all the same size so screwing together doesnt involve swearing and going more insane than dancing in a pitch black room waiting for a film to develop (never again shall I do that!) incidentally I was on my own!

oh yes.. remember those mid mounted motors you used to have.. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go back to those I really wish you would! please mr scalextric! I've had enough of long drive shafts faffing about removing coupling springs and all that polava however at least I havnt managed to pop it out in the flyesq way!!

now rotating along the drive chain, we come the the power to track connection also known as the tyres! very nice and round and round and round oh and sticky too, please dont use sillycones next year please dont! Rubber is much better. also I like the smell of lighter fluid or WD40 on tyres

body work? very nice black is a wonderful colour (attracting all the finger print within a 50 mile radius!) also, please look at Ninco and make your mirrors removeable so that we dont smash them off while racing
would be much appreciated!
Also, movig onto how to get the guide off without unscrewing the body.. see the front part of the bonnet, push it out, now you have access to the guide and improved cooling
yes I did have to have an accident to discover this!
And the rear wing, I cant decide but the writing just doesnt look straight!! not far off but definately not straight!

Braids.. as usual copper please the steel coating wears off or stops them from performing at their maximum.

oh congrats on the solid front axle much appreciated again, but cant we have the sport axles at least?

last but not least, can you stop covering over the gears? it's much easier to oil them with the body on and with a hole where they protrude through the chassis also, whats with the lines on the chassis? cant it be nice and smooth?


p.s feel free to disagree but this what i found, please post what you think.. and help scalex become better

edit: rr3.9 just reminded me.. wires too stiff, use Fly wires the one good thing about their running gear!
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I thought you'd be the last person to say that!!!

not so much travel as sloppyness.. although it is a solid axle!

try one, worth the money, looks nice anyway!

funny how sarcasm just doesnt cross on the board!!

Right, went to Preston today to race on the old Deeside Board track

and very nice it is too.. also i took the TVR..

well initial impressions were that it was a little tall and a little thin, once on the track though most were impressed with the out the box performance, I had moved the bar mag forwards earlier in the week as an experiment however, this has no altered the performance on the board track, and produced good laps, only really topping out on the main stright.

The tyres provided excellent levels of grip surpassing slot its standard, damn just thought of something now.. never mind too late.

after lending it about as requested a few said "I have to get one.. and soon!" many said they were impressed with it's out the box performance on the board track and few had negative feedback barring the physical shape/size. The only gripe was that the braids wore perticularly faster than on the R8 we were using which had slot it super soft braid, and a vrrrb as we guess the chassis rubbed on something on the track.. going to look into it bit later once I have dragged myself out my seat..

speaking of Seats that reminds me of my idea for a work seat.. RS Turbo Recaro bolted onto the gas height adj. base I have.. should be good fun fitting it! sitting in a car seat while truing tyres.. what an experience!


p.s yes I think I'm going slightly insane, dancing in dark rooms, racing without magnutz and rewinding motors in my spare time.. pub should keep me sane BYE!
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Adrian, PLEASE make the guide connections avaliable and please use more flexible wire, I have already had to put my head together to develop a guide mod since on side of the clamp thing broke

er, detail is nice too, however why are there two "R"'s moulded on the bonnet?
Cant get a pick, they are under the Texaco coming down the bonnet!

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oh right.. oops! they should be silver like the others!!!

also, why is the tampo print raised? if anyone has one, run your finger over a large tampo print and you will notice it is slightly raised!


p.s going to wrexham tonight
QUOTE Ninco are slowly but surely bringing their cars up to Scaley standard

looking though Scalex eyes again?

QUOTE This car is a Scaley one Intie

Yes I know!

QUOTE Your list makes for an interesting read but some of the points raised have already been answered by Adrian in another forum as you know (screw lengths???), and some of the points (raised tampo???) are benefits of Scalextric ownership

When where what? you mean the evil forum that I hardly read? and whenever I return I get gobloads of abuse?

funnily enough, I only have one set, I know what I like and you knwo what you like, I was told to point out what was wrong, tell you what, send me a Ninco car and I will find just as many faults! dare you..


p.s runs better on wood than plexy track

p.p.s mag is better in the forward position
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ok, BSN and I preferred the mag in the middle position even if it did mean sacrificing .7 of a second of laptimes.

Might just have been me, but it was sitting on the 10 secs dead barrier and couldnt go beneith it, we need a 956 with mag to set a benchmark time. However, we had 2 GT3's that were lapping 9.4 and 9.2 in practice. So why's this? we have a couple of cars that are well over a year old design almost thrashing a brand new TVR!

I found there was a little too much magnatration, and the line between grip and off was absolutely NOTHING on my car BSN's Argos set car was better and did slide although he did crash almost as much as me! having already surgically removed his rear wing.. we both also removed the front bonnet as well..

all in all nice car, but could do better, cure? INLINE MOTORS PLEEZE!

I personally cant see or see the point of full interiors in race cars, I would personally see a nice handling car, detail can go around it, like life, fit the most important things in then the little things, it fits better!

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I do intend to review what I have written and pick out the main points and suggest an answer if i have not already

I found that the tinned braids were harder and more likely to puncture the skin.

However, I have brought up bad points yes, but there are a few all cars have a few but look what I havnt directly commented.. wheels, gears, motor, detail, chassis strength, chassis flex, fitment to body, anything rubbing...

One could soundly assume that these have passed the test, and I am satisfied with them. By no means is anything perfect, I'm not perfect, a car isnt perfect, controllers arent perfect, lap counters arent perfect, If I was being picky, I could say that all of the tyre did touch the ground and that one tyre was .00001 of a mm bigger than the other out the box, but this doesnt matter..

It's a good, not a racer, great for kids though and great for a shelf, by saying that I am not classing anyone as a kid or a collector, it's just my opinion to whom the car is aimed at.. see?

Also, if you dont find flaws, you will never get any better! whats the saying, you learn from your mistakes.....

p.s still mulling over my points
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actually mope, club racers tend to just pull the guide off and fit a new one fast as possible with braids ready prepared! plug in things and into holder and off again takes all of 30 seconds?

Nice idea in theory but still not convinced it's as good as the tried and tested method that Fly use

well the guide is going to have friction on it and where there is friction there is going to be damage.. it's just when!

OK, that's just the way i put new guides on

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