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Scalex TVR

3918 Views 27 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Intergrali
First off Thanks Adrian!

now having been told to almost completely nit pick the car, I have done so these are my findings!

First off, Congratulations on getting the guide to swivel more than 3 degrees without losing contact
However as usual, I have already thought that once the actual guide wears out not the braids and it is in the middle of an endurance race, what are you supposed to do exactly? you cant simply pull it out and replce with braids!! You have to remove the body, faff about with lots of fiddly screws, then unscrew the guide, then faff about putting it back together (I've found a way around this I will tell later! Now, a suggestion, use a guide like Ninco, simple but effective and K.I.S.S!!!

Now, moving onto screw points, the idea of having the guide screwed in is wonderful, congrats again, so maybe merge the ninco guide idea with the screw idea and oh whoops already have.. but thats for wood! why not do it for plastic tracks? I DARE you!

Now shuffling along, one thing that irritates the hell out of me is having stupidly short screws ie middle screws on CLK DTM scalex make, however the front and mid. screws on TVR are spot on, no need for huge dock off long ones at the back.. make them all the same size so screwing together doesnt involve swearing and going more insane than dancing in a pitch black room waiting for a film to develop (never again shall I do that!) incidentally I was on my own!

oh yes.. remember those mid mounted motors you used to have.. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go back to those I really wish you would! please mr scalextric! I've had enough of long drive shafts faffing about removing coupling springs and all that polava however at least I havnt managed to pop it out in the flyesq way!!

now rotating along the drive chain, we come the the power to track connection also known as the tyres! very nice and round and round and round oh and sticky too, please dont use sillycones next year please dont! Rubber is much better. also I like the smell of lighter fluid or WD40 on tyres

body work? very nice black is a wonderful colour (attracting all the finger print within a 50 mile radius!) also, please look at Ninco and make your mirrors removeable so that we dont smash them off while racing
would be much appreciated!
Also, movig onto how to get the guide off without unscrewing the body.. see the front part of the bonnet, push it out, now you have access to the guide and improved cooling
yes I did have to have an accident to discover this!
And the rear wing, I cant decide but the writing just doesnt look straight!! not far off but definately not straight!

Braids.. as usual copper please the steel coating wears off or stops them from performing at their maximum.

oh congrats on the solid front axle much appreciated again, but cant we have the sport axles at least?

last but not least, can you stop covering over the gears? it's much easier to oil them with the body on and with a hole where they protrude through the chassis also, whats with the lines on the chassis? cant it be nice and smooth?


p.s feel free to disagree but this what i found, please post what you think.. and help scalex become better

edit: rr3.9 just reminded me.. wires too stiff, use Fly wires the one good thing about their running gear!
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This car is a Scaley one Intie.

Look at it through Scaley eyes and not Ninco eyes.

Your list makes for an interesting read but some of the points raised have already been answered by Adrian in another forum as you know (screw lengths???), and some of the points (raised tampo???) are benefits of Scalextric ownership.

I want my Scaley cars to be Scaley cars not Ninco cars.

Ninco are slowly but surely bringing their cars up to Scaley standard (Mitsubishi Pajero - that could easily have a "Scalextric" label on it). (Integrale =

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I don' find flaws in any product.

Its much better to focus on the strengths.

Raised tampo to me suggests thicker coats of paint. The Ninco Mitsubishi has raised tampo and has a better ovarall finish for it.

Screws. This is not a running problem. Just put paint blobs on the end of the screw to code them for a quick racing pit stop.

Cables. They are normally tucked away in some clips in the chassis to make it all neat and tidy for the pit stop.

Brushes. The coated steel ones last longer don't they? Fewer pit stops required.

Now tell us about the good points Intie.

For a front engined car the TVR seems to go like the clappers relative to similar front engined competition. I like the motor in the front and the Scaley chassis is the tigtest front engined chassis ever!

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Lets look at the big picture.

The gain offered by the new guide surely outweighs the pain.

For the club racer and the home racer it is a major improvment.

The endurace racer may have a point but how many of them will be using a Scaley car and how often do guide posts snap?

Unless the implication is of course that Scalextric have great plans for next year to win every endurance race around Europe with a brand new supercar!

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