SlotForum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Folks,

My first post here after the recent exhumation of my Scalextric and the even more recent acquisition of a number of 'project' Scalextric cars at auction - a number of Formula Juniors whose repair presented no problems, a Ferrari 156 that's turned out a good'un, and the Aston Martin DBR, ref. C/57, that is the subject of this post!

As found, it comprised body, complete and working RX motor, front axle and pickups. I hadn't anticipated too much bother in making up a rear axle from the spares box and a couple of repro wheels, but it seems that the standard white nylon contrate gear I normally associate with the RX motor won't fit - the 'lips' on the contrate that centre the motor shaft are jammed solid against the motor pinion. Does this mean it's necessary to source one of the brass contrates, or is there more than one variation of the RX motor with longer/shorter pinions? Any advice would be very welcome.

Thanks!
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
At least the C7 Mini has a shorter than normal pinion, a regular one jams like the one you described. If you can't find a suitable one, shortening isn't too difficult with a Dremel type tool or file.
 

·
Phil Smith
Joined
·
2,622 Posts
This is a common fault on clamshell Scalextric cars.
It is caused by the underpan distorting with age and the pinion then jamming on the contrate as you described, you can try twisting the underpan back into shape with the aid of a little heat, but this is rarely successful.
Better is to remove the pinion and then remove the small spacer that is behind it and then replace the pinion so it is then further along the shaft, this should give you the necessary clearance and the car should run fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,109 Posts
Just to be clear- are you talking about the end of the pinion shaft being a tad too long or the diameter of the pinion shaft being too large? There were two different types of contrate that were very similar but later ones were tighter pitch between the lips. They came in with the smaller Johnson 111, the RX motors and the Johnson 222 had the larger gap.
Or Phil's gonna tell me I'm wrong again...
 

·
Phil Smith
Joined
·
2,622 Posts
Your partly correct! the 222 has the same shaft diameter as a 111 and uses the same contrate, the RX has a slightly larger diameter shaft and uses a different contrate.
This was one of my first thoughts on the problem, as he had used parts from his spares box, but he says "the 'lips' on the contrate that centre the motor shaft are jammed solid against the motor pinion" which sounds more like the pinion is too far up the shaft, but then again it could be a combination of both problems, difficult to tell without actually seeing the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Thanks to all for the wealth of information received so far! Scaleslotcars' assumptions are correct. The contrate is OK with the RX shaft diameter, but flexing the underpan doesn't clear the fault. I've photographed the problem in the hope that it helps! Apologies for the mildew etc., I haven't got very far with it yet! Here's the link - I've had trouble embedding it for some reason. Thanks once again. Jim
DBR Picture
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
I don't know about the experiences of others, but I have NEVER been able to solve problems like this by cutting the "lips" and trying to make them smaller in diameter. I just end up with a ruined contrate and poorly running car. So, I'd say that removing the pinion, taking off the washer behind it and replacing it sounds like the best plan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Taking off the spacer I can see as a practical solution, but I shall be forced to display my considerable ignorance once again! I presume a small gear puller of some description is required to get these brass pinions off - could some kind soul inform me where in the UK I could find a suitable tool? Thanks once again, J
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
Hi there.

I am not sure who can supply a gear puller but this is a problem i come across all the time.

As Phil says removing the washer is the way to go but i have also found that the rear contrate which are fitted to the power sledge cars works great.

They have slightly smaller discs/guides, where the amature shaft centralizes on.Thus not fouling the pinion.
Solved this problem recently on my c36 honda,it now runs beautifully.

As already mentioning,if you try to turn the nylon contrate down a bit to try and give a little room,they just destroy themselves as they tend to melt as this material just will not turn down.

Hope you fix it.And enjoy the aston.

Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
About gear pullers: I had a cheap, poor quality puller (Parma I think) and I filed the groove for the motor shaft wider for the RX. I also filed the flat end a bit to make it easier to fit between the pinion and the motor itself.
This is not an ideal solution, however, since the cheap puller was poorly shaped: the inside of the puller was fully round, so it did some damage to the motor end of the pinion. I think you can choose to accept this, the damaged end doesn't really come into contact with the gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks once again! As luck would have it, there is a duff Power Sledge assembly lurking in a dark recess somewhere, with a good contrate as I recall. That sounds like the first thing to try, as it's the easiest!

I'll report back with whatever of these solutions works, in case someone else runs across the same problem.

Just a further 'newbie' question on the same car. Is the lighted version actually marked E/2? The reason for asking is, it it appears that it would be possible to equip this car with lights - it has holes in the base and the light guide for the rear lamps - so either it once had a lighting loom or else it didn't (I defy anyone to fault that amazing logic;)). In any event, I think I will fit some when all other work is done.

I'm very pleased to have joined this forum - I feel I've been made very welcome and given a great deal of good advice.

Cheers -
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
At least the standard non-lighted Aston Martin DB5 has mountings for the lights. I suppose having only one type of body has made moulding easier. I couldn't resist installing the lights, it can be done with no glue or damage to the body. However, it may worsen the risk of plastic browning?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
572 Posts
Sometimes I just cut and file away at the pinion until it either falls off or breaks off with the help of a good squeeze from some pliers.
Tom.
p.s. unless you want to keep the pinion of course, then this method wouldn't be the one to choose!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Right, I've now tried a Power Sledge contrate with no success, so we can rule that one out. Isn't it always the way that the easiest option fails! Next will be to pull the pinion etc. I've now dug out a spare Johnson 111 motor with the two RX mounts, so I've got a rather unsavoury last resort up my sleeve...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
That's a shame Jim,i have done this several times and it worked for me.

Maybe i was lucky or the contrate on your powersledge chassis was changed at some point.
Looks like the way to go is removing the washer.

Even with a puller them old pinions are really stubborn things to remove.

I have another method but it's a difficult one to do on your own.

And one i have also achieved with good results.

Open the motor by taking the nut and bolt off,carefully open the sides to realease the mounting bar and magnet

Get a small dremil or handy craft drill.

Attach it to the magnet side of the armeture,carefully hold the motor sides while you get a friend to hold and turn the drill on.

Using a small file,gently take a little material off the side of the pinion as the drills running it.

You both have to be very carefull holding the drill and motor as not to damage it.

Worth a pop.But risky.

I have steady hand like a surgen so i managed it ok

You could do it whilst the motors running but that will only strain it i would imagine

Good luck,Tim

Tim
 

·
Senior Slot Car Mechanic
Joined
·
2,230 Posts
I wouldn't take the motor apart for that, just hook up some wires, and run it. Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel in it to skim off about 20 thou from the end of the pinion.

Make sure the motor is running the opposite direction as the cutoff wheel for quickest cutting.

20 seconds tops to do this.

I have shortened pinions many times this way.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Jim asked "Is the lighted version actually marked E/2?" I don't know about the markings, as I've never had either version, but the catalogue number for the lighted DBR was E2, not C57.
Rob J
 

·
Phil Smith
Joined
·
2,622 Posts
There is another method which I have successfully used in the past, a little easier if you have limited tools or abilities.
You can pack a small piece of plastic between the motor and the chassis which will force the axle carrier back a little freeing the contrate from rubbing on the pinion, picture below will show what I mean.



QUOTE "Is the lighted version actually marked E/2?"
No none of the 'E' cars were marked as such on the underpan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi all - now managed to get it running by skimming the pinion as discussed - many thanks for the suggestions! It's not quite finished as awaiting repro grille and headlights, but very nearly there! I'm getting quite fond of these early cars, and seem to have acquired an ambition to own the first ten from C/54 to C/63 (somehow I don't think I could get as far as C/70). Well, halfway there already!

Cheers
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
625 Posts
Firstly, can I apologise for reviving a very old thread, I thought it better than starting another one, cluttering up the site.

I came across this while looking for a solution to my problem, exactly the same one as the original poster appears to have had.

The replies suggesting a remedy for this issue are many, but I particularly liked the one from Phil Smith (post #3) where he advises "bending the underpan back into shape with the aid of a little heat", he does add though "...but this is rarely successful".

Well that is what I decided to attempt, and I'm delighted to report - it was successful! Thought I should share.

Here follows my very amateurish effort on how I tackled it.

1. I found a suitably sized small 'L' shaped steel plate.

a.png

2. C clamp (I don't have a vice)

C57 Repair 010.JPG

3. Attach the plate against the rear axle 'fixing lugs' (as shown) by using tape to prevent it from shifting. C57 Repair 007.JPG

4. I then taped a piece of plastic (old ruler in this instance) to the underside in order to protect the part from scratches and damage.

C57 Repair 008.JPG

5. Place the C clamp as shown in the next picture, gently screwing it until you create a 'slight' bend on the underpan.

C57 Repair 001.JPG

For heat I boiled up a kettle and poured the boiling liquid over the plastic, be careful here as you don't want to scald your hand, I immediately followed this up by holding it under a cold running tap.

After drying it off I refitted the motor and the rear axle to find the pinion no longer rubbed against the concrate lip, now the car runs like it should.

I'm guessing I got lucky regards on how much I should tighten the C clamp, not enough and it would have been a waste of time, too far and perhaps I'd have ruined it altogether, to be honest I wasn't even sure if I should use warm water or boiling water. I threw caution to the wind and opted for boiling, thankfully the car shows no signs of damage or discolouration.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top