Joined
·
650 Posts
Firstly, can I apologise for reviving a very old thread, I thought it better than starting another one, cluttering up the site.
I came across this while looking for a solution to my problem, exactly the same one as the original poster appears to have had.
The replies suggesting a remedy for this issue are many, but I particularly liked the one from Phil Smith (post #3) where he advises "bending the underpan back into shape with the aid of a little heat", he does add though "...but this is rarely successful".
Well that is what I decided to attempt, and I'm delighted to report - it was successful! Thought I should share.
Here follows my very amateurish effort on how I tackled it.
1. I found a suitably sized small 'L' shaped steel plate.
![Wood Gadget Automotive exterior Automotive tire Hardwood]()
2. C clamp (I don't have a vice)
![Wood Hand tool Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Hardwood]()
3. Attach the plate against the rear axle 'fixing lugs' (as shown) by using tape to prevent it from shifting.
![Wood Engineering Machine Auto part Electric blue]()
4. I then taped a piece of plastic (old ruler in this instance) to the underside in order to protect the part from scratches and damage.
![Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic component Electronic engineering]()
5. Place the C clamp as shown in the next picture, gently screwing it until you create a 'slight' bend on the underpan.
![Hand tool Wood Tool Flooring Automotive tire]()
For heat I boiled up a kettle and poured the boiling liquid over the plastic, be careful here as you don't want to scald your hand, I immediately followed this up by holding it under a cold running tap.
After drying it off I refitted the motor and the rear axle to find the pinion no longer rubbed against the concrate lip, now the car runs like it should.
I'm guessing I got lucky regards on how much I should tighten the C clamp, not enough and it would have been a waste of time, too far and perhaps I'd have ruined it altogether, to be honest I wasn't even sure if I should use warm water or boiling water. I threw caution to the wind and opted for boiling, thankfully the car shows no signs of damage or discolouration.
I came across this while looking for a solution to my problem, exactly the same one as the original poster appears to have had.
The replies suggesting a remedy for this issue are many, but I particularly liked the one from Phil Smith (post #3) where he advises "bending the underpan back into shape with the aid of a little heat", he does add though "...but this is rarely successful".
Well that is what I decided to attempt, and I'm delighted to report - it was successful! Thought I should share.
Here follows my very amateurish effort on how I tackled it.
1. I found a suitably sized small 'L' shaped steel plate.
2. C clamp (I don't have a vice)
3. Attach the plate against the rear axle 'fixing lugs' (as shown) by using tape to prevent it from shifting.
4. I then taped a piece of plastic (old ruler in this instance) to the underside in order to protect the part from scratches and damage.
5. Place the C clamp as shown in the next picture, gently screwing it until you create a 'slight' bend on the underpan.
For heat I boiled up a kettle and poured the boiling liquid over the plastic, be careful here as you don't want to scald your hand, I immediately followed this up by holding it under a cold running tap.
After drying it off I refitted the motor and the rear axle to find the pinion no longer rubbed against the concrate lip, now the car runs like it should.
I'm guessing I got lucky regards on how much I should tighten the C clamp, not enough and it would have been a waste of time, too far and perhaps I'd have ruined it altogether, to be honest I wasn't even sure if I should use warm water or boiling water. I threw caution to the wind and opted for boiling, thankfully the car shows no signs of damage or discolouration.
