I think perhaps there is a good moment to take a step backwards from the conversation so far and look again at the question...
2 x C993's (equivalent to a UK C990 12v 1amp Unit) so in theory there are 12v and 1 amp to each track...
2 x C7024 (or equivalents) will output 15v and 4amps to each track...
in general speak.... OOOMMMPPH comes from the amps... Speed comes from the volts... I dont think the power input side is the issue here...
Firstly the APB is eating some power but as the PSU are regulated that doesn't steal any real voltage... So i don;t think its that either...
Jamie G Pointed out a similar thing when he switched from running analogue to digital after sending his C7030 away for modification so it may not be entirely APB related...
Enough waffle... Heres the point... a 30 Ohm resistor is low... It means that the amount of voltage regulation applied to the current is "less" than the standard "60 Ohm" scaley units...
As i Understand it the idea of using a 30 ohm resistor in a throttle is to make the car feel more "spritely" by giving more speed for less controller movement at the start of the trigger movement and finer control at high speeds.... reaching almost full speed at maybe 80% of the throttle maximum.... and the controllers often have a very light spring in them for finer adjustment.
This is way different to how a digital throttle works which is purely proportional.... a straight line response.... as you squeeze the throttle the more power is applied... Not reaching full power until the trigger is fully depressed (as long as they have been calibrated properly)....
So There will be a difference in feel... A car may have felt faster at say 60% of trigger movement witrh a 30 Ohm analogue throttle where it may have been gioving as much as 80% of the available power at that trigger position...
The scaley throttles are cheap... Lubricating the resistor with switch lube will help... Fitting better springs will help... but they are all a bit esoteric things to do...Just like with analogue spending £40 or so on a better throttle than the scalex originals will give better results (Truspeed two button digital a good place to start)... A £100 Slot-it SCP-01 will give you full dialability of throttle settings... and give you back the feel you are used to... But its a big cost!...
So practical things you MUST do if you havn't done already....
FIRSTLY: Make sure you have calibrated the throttles to the powerbase... and set the "trigger start point" to a setting you like... All software options in the APB (and explained in the manual)... This will give you the best from each throttle you have got... and make sure you keep them plugged into the same sockets as the APB will remeber the settings!!!!
SECONDLY: remeber the new throttles are linear and dont expect full power until you fully squeeze the throttle... SSDC allows throttle mapping to tune the throttles to your own tastes (i'm assuming is still in V5.... as i have not installed it yet)
ENSCA digital club upgraded to the Truspeed digitals recently and it helped shave 1.5 seconds of the best lap times over the first few weeks after they were introduced... In my experience I think you are chasing the "feel" of the throttles you are used to by looking for explanations in the "Volts and Amps" but i think its a red herring... The truspeeds don't have 64 individual connectors in the movement and seem to "read" the output based on a throttle curve of their own design instead of linear... they also have softer springs.... the outcome... all cars feel more responsive... No extra Volts, No extra Amps... just changes the "feel"... Digital guys used to the way the scaley ones work find it a tough transition (ME) but to the analogue guys the feel more normal!
hope that offers a different insight into a problem which has poppped up a few times recently... "feel" is a very personal thing.
2 x C993's (equivalent to a UK C990 12v 1amp Unit) so in theory there are 12v and 1 amp to each track...
2 x C7024 (or equivalents) will output 15v and 4amps to each track...
in general speak.... OOOMMMPPH comes from the amps... Speed comes from the volts... I dont think the power input side is the issue here...
Firstly the APB is eating some power but as the PSU are regulated that doesn't steal any real voltage... So i don;t think its that either...
Jamie G Pointed out a similar thing when he switched from running analogue to digital after sending his C7030 away for modification so it may not be entirely APB related...
Enough waffle... Heres the point... a 30 Ohm resistor is low... It means that the amount of voltage regulation applied to the current is "less" than the standard "60 Ohm" scaley units...
As i Understand it the idea of using a 30 ohm resistor in a throttle is to make the car feel more "spritely" by giving more speed for less controller movement at the start of the trigger movement and finer control at high speeds.... reaching almost full speed at maybe 80% of the throttle maximum.... and the controllers often have a very light spring in them for finer adjustment.
This is way different to how a digital throttle works which is purely proportional.... a straight line response.... as you squeeze the throttle the more power is applied... Not reaching full power until the trigger is fully depressed (as long as they have been calibrated properly)....
So There will be a difference in feel... A car may have felt faster at say 60% of trigger movement witrh a 30 Ohm analogue throttle where it may have been gioving as much as 80% of the available power at that trigger position...
The scaley throttles are cheap... Lubricating the resistor with switch lube will help... Fitting better springs will help... but they are all a bit esoteric things to do...Just like with analogue spending £40 or so on a better throttle than the scalex originals will give better results (Truspeed two button digital a good place to start)... A £100 Slot-it SCP-01 will give you full dialability of throttle settings... and give you back the feel you are used to... But its a big cost!...
So practical things you MUST do if you havn't done already....
FIRSTLY: Make sure you have calibrated the throttles to the powerbase... and set the "trigger start point" to a setting you like... All software options in the APB (and explained in the manual)... This will give you the best from each throttle you have got... and make sure you keep them plugged into the same sockets as the APB will remeber the settings!!!!
SECONDLY: remeber the new throttles are linear and dont expect full power until you fully squeeze the throttle... SSDC allows throttle mapping to tune the throttles to your own tastes (i'm assuming is still in V5.... as i have not installed it yet)
ENSCA digital club upgraded to the Truspeed digitals recently and it helped shave 1.5 seconds of the best lap times over the first few weeks after they were introduced... In my experience I think you are chasing the "feel" of the throttles you are used to by looking for explanations in the "Volts and Amps" but i think its a red herring... The truspeeds don't have 64 individual connectors in the movement and seem to "read" the output based on a throttle curve of their own design instead of linear... they also have softer springs.... the outcome... all cars feel more responsive... No extra Volts, No extra Amps... just changes the "feel"... Digital guys used to the way the scaley ones work find it a tough transition (ME) but to the analogue guys the feel more normal!
hope that offers a different insight into a problem which has poppped up a few times recently... "feel" is a very personal thing.