[Mr Modifier]

Hello,

I have a C7 Mini Cooper with a Johnson 111 motor.

We have a new class at our club where we are racing Classic Saloons and road going sports cars which must be C400 or lower. We are chipping these for SSD and I reckon I can fit an in-car single seater chip behind the driver & passenger and build a subframe to mount the LED.

We are allowed to replace motors with the modern standard scalextric mabuchi.

I have another chassis that came in a box of bits. It is made for and fitted with a modern mabuchi. The chassis fits my C7 body perfectly but it has no C number and is branded Hornby rather than Scalextric.

The chassis is beige. The driver and co driver are painted with white overalls, silver goggles and yellow helmets. The front axle is present and is wearing 5 spoke wheels (not the earlier 4 spokes) but I don't know if this is original. The guide sits in the same pivoting frame that the C7's guide does.

It would be easier for me to race this later chassis which is purpose built for mabuchi and it gives more space between the guide and the motor to fit the LED. I know I can get spacers to fit a mabuchi into a Johnson111 hole but space would be very tight for the LED.

Does anybody have any idea what "C" number this newer chassis is?

Thank you

 

[GregK]

If you find that the F1 chip is too large for the space ...... try the F1 DPR chip (clicky).

You could even attach the LED to the front of the guide. Use a dremmel or a round file to make an indentation that the LED can snuggle into then add a drop of glue top keep it there.

 

[Mr Modifier]

Good ideas.

I have an F1 DPR chip with nothing to put it in.

Nice idea on the guide too - mind you on a Mini Cooper that makes the LED and wiring very exposed at the front.

Food for thought - thanks Greg.

Does anybody know the chassis "C" number?

 

[GregK]

QUOTE I have an F1 DPR chip with nothing to put it in.
Try any of the Classis F1 cars or maybe a FLY with a front mounted motor ........... or anywhere there is a tight space. If the space is really tight then you can remove the large capacitor and mount that on a fly-lead .....

To remove the LED so that you can mount it on a fly-lead, just move the soldering iron from leg to leg for about 1.5s max at a time then gently tug on the bulb as the solder softens. You will, of course, need to mount the PCB in a small vice of some sort after removing the casing.

 

[Mr Modifier]

Thanks again Greg.

I have a craft vice and one of those helping hands with magnifiers and a solder sucker (I used to do medical equipment upgrades and replaced surface mounted resistors in the field amongst other things so my soldering is reasonably good).

Richard

 

[Mr.M]

The later Mabuchi powered Minis based on the old C7 body had different C numbers for each different livery whereas the earlier ones were all C7 whatever the colour. If you're looking for one under 400 (odd rule, but I think I understand the reasoning behind it) I seem to remember one was C150. Possibly the red one that was done in the collectors series. And the Power & Glory one was C-ninety something.

 

[Mr Modifier]

Thanks Mr M.

I have found some listings now for Mini Cooper - C150, C206, C323, C393.

I realise under 400 seems an odd rule - the idea is for old Scalextric cars pre 1990 (or at least made to pre-1990 specs). I was after the old Scalextric cars with realistic ground clearance and tricky handling before they got flat chassis and bar magnets.

We could have limited it to Escort, Mini, Porsche 911/935, BMW 3.0CSL, Datsun 260z but we would probably have missed some perfectly valid models. We are allowing upgrades to modern mabuchi (18k) and free choice of tyres and braids, running gear etc. The main aim is to retain the original chassis and body and see how much fun we can have with them.

Thanks for your help - I think I can say my mabuchi engined chassis is within the spirit of things.

 

[scaleslotcars]

Power & Glory car was C99