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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi just wondering if anyone can help.
I have a scalextric classic pit and on taking the flip switch out it looks like you can attach a mechanism to switch lanes easier, does anyone know anything about this or how to do it.

many thanks

James
 

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Back in the sixties for a couple of years the catalogues listed the remote controls for the pit lane. They looked like the then current thumb operated throttles and they had a cable that attached to the flipper. Very difficult to find (if not impossible). You could make your own...
 

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Living the Life!
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Hi James,
Welcome to the Forum .........


You need some solenoids and some power. There is a bar in the centre of the solenoid moves when you apply power to the solenoid. This bar would be attached to the lever of the pit lane and so can open and close the lane. Hang around as I am sure that someone should be along soon who should be able to give you more detailed information about bits and circuits for you needs .......


Cheers - Greg
 

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I would have thought a motorised points kits from a train set should do the trick

If you popped alnong to your local train/model shop with it they should sort out the bits you need

Michael

ps or go DIGITAL and it's already all there
 

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I was lucky enough to find a couple of these sets - about 30 years ago! They basically are spring loaded thrusters that open the lane to entry from the side when you press the 'Control'. The basic engineering is identical to a gearchange or brakes on a bike - in fact I think the same cabling is used. The spring return is located under the track (under that red plate thats screwed to the track underside). I'd bet you could get the whole thing to work using bits from a bike shop plus springs - from God knows where!

If you decide to go that way I could post pics of the set-up

Cheers
Andy
 

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PT 96 pitstop control cable (1966-1970) was used to switch track James.
They were also used for the later Le Mans start track.

The mechanism works a lot better on the Le Mans start than it does on the pit sections.
If your track has the red buttons, just use them(early pieces had no red buttons).

The cable & track are not particularily rare.

Be careful if you want to use the pit section on a Sport Track layout. The guide depth of Classic track is shallower than Sport Track, so some of your modern cars will struggle through the section.

Your sections must also be in very good condition & not warped. If they`re not in A1 nick then I`m afraid that you`re in for some frustrating times .

Cheers,
Kev.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi all

thank you all so much for the help, photos of how you have done it would be greatly appreciated. I am going to go to my model shop tomorrow and see about using the train switches. I can't find any of the original button controllers.

Thank you

James
 

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Hi James.

Kev knows his stuff when it comes to the older track, on one of my many visits to his house at Costa del Sunderland
I took my normal selection of club cars & all bar my avant scobby had problems with the guide being to deep. His track is all classic.

I know most of the cars in your collection, after all you bought most of them from me
, so I can see you having problems.

Cheers
Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haha got some nice cars off you Paul. I dont think i am going to use it in the layout, i was more going for an ultra detailed pit section of 6 Feet, just as a display type thing. Ive already extended the pit so i can put a wall inbetween the lanes but thought it would be nice and compleate if it had the switches especially when i am going to intergrate it into a slab of wood. Didnt make it to the model shop today but might just leave the automatic switches out.

James
 

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Here's a few pics of the guts of the changer. There are 2 sets working this Le Mans start (also there are elecricity isolating switches to allow you to park cars in the paddock while racing).



This is the mystery red plastic plate - it should be on your track



Under it is this - you should have all the red bits. The business end of the changer is a cable threaded through a brass bar and soldered, trapping a spring - its the return spring that closes the junction to the lay-by



Here's how it fits in



In one position it's like this



And the other is like this - this is what happens when you press the control



Shouldn't be too hard to put together!

Good luck

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you, the pictures have given me alot of understanding, my grandad thinks he can make the mecanism with bike breaks ... will keep you up to date with how it goes :)
 

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Having got a set on the bidding site a while back I've started to notice a little niggle. The pit entry is right after a corner and sometimes the car on the inside oversteers out of a corner and flips the button for the outside lane so that lane is now pit bound.

I guess a half straight just after the corner would solve it, but I'm struggling for space. Anyone else noticed this phenomena?
 

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Am I right in thinking that the units that are operated by the red buttons do not have springs to return the tab? If so, fitting springs would help the situation where a tyre hits the red button and makes it move. I mean just fit the spring, without the cable.

Leo
 

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Greg Gaub
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If space is tight, and this is a real problem (it would bother the heck out of me, I know), one option is to curve your pit lane around the inside of a turn. Using one of the skid/turn chicanes for the rails, and trimming some plastic to make it fit, it should work just fine.
I've seen something like this done by another person on SlotForum. Hopefully they'll chime in with photos.

If you fit springs, you'll pretty much need a cable, since the only way to get the car into the pits is to HOLD the switch... which you can't do while the car is driving over it, hence the need for the cable.
 

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Thanks for the replys, it's not a major issue really. I may look in the future to add some cable controls.
 
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