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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This might sound slightly strange, but here goes........

My layout has, out of necessity, 5 sections of Classic track. A couple of my cars "dig-in" and de-slot when they get on the curves of this section.
So, I'd like to get a smoother surface more like the Sport track the rest of the layout is made-up of.

Is it possible to resurface these sections? If so, what do I need to do/use??
I had wondered about using high-build primer, then matt black over it once I'm happy with the surface. What do you reckon?? Any other/better way of getting a smooth(er) surface on these grippy sections?

TIA
Stuart.
 

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QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 4 Jul 2011, 12:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>out of necessity,

Hi Stuart, I thought you could get all the curves you needed in new sport track, and if they are R2s that you are after they are cheap as chips second band on ebay.
 

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Hi Stuart

I think the main cause of the de-slots would be that Sport has a deeper slot than Classic, the longer guides will run ok on the Sport sections but will occasionally snag on the Classic.

Not sure if building up the track surface with paint would make much difference as you would then have a 'step' where the 2 types meet, but you never know it may have been tried by someone and I'm sure they will let you know if it worked. You could try a shorter guide which may help.

Cheers
Paul
 

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I know what Stuart means, the sport track is quite slippery compared with classic. Come to that the classic track is quite slippery compated to SCX track. On my older circuits I had to be careful with the change of surface, if you went around a R4 bend and the first three were SCX and the last 2 were classic then you were always but always going to lose it on the exit as the car was caught out by the unexpected grip change.
Equally a SCX R2 would provide so much grip that many cars would just bite in and roll, when on classic track they would drift nicely.
 

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Stu can I give you something to think about mate ?

Yesterday I was at Kev Owens house & he has a classic layout, I took over about twelve cars of various brands but they are the cars I race at both clubs on wood. None of the NSR's worked as the slot is to shallow or the guide is to long depending on how you look at it
. Same story with Ninco subaru & porsche, a Fly BMW M3 & a Fly F1.

The only two cars that did work fine, Avant slot subaru & Cartrix D50 Ferrari.

Now I have seen in your other topics that you are getting well into your slots, avant slot LMPs etc so would it not be better to just bite the bullet & change to sport track
. Has anyone used Avant Lmps on classic ?.

As dell boy would say "you know it makes sense"


Cheers Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (RikoRocket @ 4 Jul 2011, 15:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I know what Stuart means, the sport track is quite slippery compared with classic. Come to that the classic track is quite slippery compated to SCX track. On my older circuits I had to be careful with the change of surface, if you went around a R4 bend and the first three were SCX and the last 2 were classic then you were always but always going to lose it on the exit as the car was caught out by the unexpected grip change.
Equally a SCX R2 would provide so much grip that many cars would just bite in and roll, when on classic track they would drift nicely.

This ^^^ pretty-much sums-up my problem. Thank you all for the input thus far.
Quick replies, too.

Now I've got your attention, I'll try to explain in a bit more depth - please bear with me for a few seconds.

1. I could make my track 100% Sport, and that would solve the problem at a stroke. That isn't an option, though, because if I were to go that route, I'd lose my Pacer.

2. Because of the way I've designed my layout, I can't get a Sport-Classic track converter between the last curve and the Pacer. This curve is where I'm going to have the problem.

3. The problem is only with my weak-mag Scalextric rally cars. All my strong-mag'd race cars are fine. I've set the offending rally cars up with Slot.It P2 rear tyres and ZeroGrip fronts, and this set-up is spot-on on the Sport track, but as soon as the cars get to the final curve, the outside rear tyre grips and the car rolls.
My SCX rally cars don't suffer from the problem, although they have the same tyres - I suspect this is because of the stronger mags (although the mags on these are adjusted as far into the chassis as they will go). I've got stronger mags I could use in the Scalextric cars, but when I did that they weren't rally cars anymore, they became race cars - if you know what I mean.
 

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I spent yesterday evening thinking about this (yes, it hurt!).

After looking at the cars that "worked" and the cars that didn't, I came to the conclusion that there was one big difference. The cars that wouldn't corner have the usual Scalextric "floating" front axles.....
A small dose of ingenuity later and I Superglued axle spacers to the chassis to make the axles rigid - reducing body roll. It's made the cars handle better, and knocked about half a second off the lap times with less de-slots. A vast improvement, but I still need smoother track.
 

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If your constraint is not being able to fit in a converter straight, how about you do without it...
You can join classic and sport by trimming off the joining tabs, and then fixing the pieces together either by "welding" with a soldering iron (smelly but effective) or by hot glue. As the rails may not make good contact, you may also need to hard wire the join beneath the track.
Also with this method, you can cut a custom length if required.
Cheers,
Tom.
 

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Is it a possibility to remove the electronics from the classic track and fix it onto the sport track .......
 

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The answer is simple, take apart the Pacer from the underneath, you'll find it has wires soldered to the track, disconnect these and solder them to a piece of Sport track, if you use a Sport Power track you could just crimp the wires to each other and not have to do any soldering.

It really is simple, there can only be four connections as there are four rails on Scalextric trck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've been thinking again about this particular problem.

Before I go to the bother of trying to smooth classic track, or somehow connecting classic directly to Sport, I could look into rotating my layout on the table and re-positioning the start/finish (and therefore power) section into the long straight.

Don't know why I didn't think of it before, actually.
 
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