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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd start the new year with a bit of Pro active slot forum moderation.

There's already a very good review of the Scalex Ford GT GTE in its stock form with the Slimline FF motor which can can be found here
Inquiries have also been posted about the availability of 3DP chassis for the Ford, which can can be found here

In the 3D topic Steve (Steveaca) mentioned he's considering fitting Scalex's regular S-can in the stock chassis, if he does I hope he will add his wip and pictures in this topic.

When I got my Scalex Ford GTE I immediately pulled the car apart to check what mods would be required to fit inline, sidewinder or angle winder.
My first impressions were...

  • very little mods required for all motor configurations
  • what a missed opportunity for Scalex..why in heaven sake did they choose the FF slimline motor when their regular short can fits just as well.

Ok for an inline short can they would have to sacrifice a bit of the interior detail, but I would say most racers would have preferred the car to have the same motor as their other GT's. The Ford GTE would have been an absolute winner.
So this topic will be about how you can do what I.m.o Scalextric should have done...convert a Stock Scalex Ford Gt GTE to run the regular S-can.
Now I already went one stage to far with my Ford to use the stock chassis, but some of the steps I've mades pictures of might still be helpful for those who do want to keep it.
Anyhow, whether you use a stock or 3rd party chassis, the work on the body will almost be identical.

Step 1 taking the Ford apart
One of the thing I have noticed about Scalex lastest releases is that they have improved their design and tooling and how they assemble their cars.
thumbsup.gif

The Ford GT has some very complicated shapes and, compared to their colleagues @ Carrera, all body and chassis parts are detailed, sturdy, clean, crisp and light.
No hot melting of parts with a soldering iron so taking the car apart was very easy.

The whole interior is held by two tabs, bend the rear of the body slightly to release the rear tab first and slide it backwards to release the front tab.
The windows can be removed by gently pressing the side windows inward after which you can move the whole window backwards to release it from the front retainer in the body.
You can also dismount the whole engine cover/center section from the body. There's only two small blobs of glue to fix the body tabs form the outer section. Use a knife to cut the glue and the centre section can be removed.
The small detail parts like antenna's and side mirrors I generally remove these before I start a project and store them for later re assembly....but..warning..
These have been glued to the body after painting and decal application...so when you remove them inevitably some of the body paint will come off as well.

IMG_0191.jpg


Step 2 Positioning the S-can
As you can see I'd already cut away most of the chassis to check for the needed room for inline,SW and AW motor configurations.
My initial "research" was focussed on what would fit under the body, not on the original chassis as a 3DP version was the end goal.
So although an SW S-can and AW Flat-six will fit..I'll keep this topic focussed on the inline S-can.

IMG_0197.jpg

On the stock chassis the Slim line FF motor rests on top of the chassis floor. To fit the S-can in the stock chassis you'll have to cut the chassis floor as the S-can is thicker.
I stacked a 1,5 and a 2mm shim to raise the S-can and align the motor axle with the rear axle. By the way, I found that an NSR axle will fit perfectly inside the Stock Scalex wheels & bearings.
IMG_0193.jpg


So here's where I hope Steveaca wil pick up my post for as far as it concerns mounting the regular Scalex S-can to the stock rear bulkhead..which as you can clearly see on my chassis ..is no longer there
Bring on the slot.it inline pod.
I've cut off/grinded down the right tab on the motor mount (the part that usually fills the SW opening on a slot.it chassis). The narrowed pod now fits between the original rear axle mounts.
I've kept them to keep track of the original axle position.

IMG_0203.jpg


As you may have spotted I've added 3mm nylon NSR axle spacers which will help you along the pod in the original axle mounts.
The white circles at the front of the chassis (pictured above) are made of 2 layers of 0,75mm thick plastic to raise the front of the pod.
You'll need to drill holes in them if you want to fit screws to control pod float and fabricate similar mounts at the rear.
But if that's not required, you can (hot) glue the whole pod top the chassis.

IMG_0218.jpg


Step 3 Body and Interior clearance
For an inline configuration there's no need to remove any material form the body itself, (what's visible in my images was done for an SW configuration).
You will have to remove material from the Interior. I had already removed a bit too much than needed for a S-can (to check if a Flat-6 IL would fit..which it does)
But you can use the same procedure to check how much room is needed for your S-can.
With the motor mounted I add some aunt to the high surfaces of the Motor and mount the body when that paint is still wet.
The paint will transfer where ever the motor touches the body giving you a perfect guide as to where to remove material. Do it in small steps and repeat the process.

IMG_0216.jpg


This is what it should look like after you've repeated the proces, as I mentioned before... the difference is hardly visible

IMG_0220.jpg


Ok that's it for now, I won't be able to continue with this project till after the Suzuka 6hrs..but I hope this post helps to get you started.
And if any of you guys do continue where left...please feel free to post.

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Nice work :thumbsup:

Iv an idea, itll only take an hour to draw and itll be a quick print...
So, print this frame 1.5mm thick, so it slots and glues into the original chassis, using existing datums to ensure accarate alignment. Then you just need to cut the oblong out the middle for the pod to go in, and run a drill bit through the predrilled(printed) holes so you get the holes in the right place in the chassis. Itll mean its proper aligned, nice easy outline to cut to, and itll also let you countersink the bottom of the chassis for screws to fix the pod in. :thumbsup:

Auto part Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Machine


Sorry for the poor photoshop skills, its clearly not my forte..
 

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Slot Cartel's frame idea is brilliant!
It allows one to retain the stock chassis with the factory decoration.
A locating frame like this would be ideal for Carrera DTMs due to the frame/body design. It would also be a good idea for almost all cars out there. A little modification to an existing chassis makes more sense than throwing it out in favor of a whole new 3D chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Which Slot It Pd is this?

I have a number of cars that I want to convert to 13D/S-can and it might help but I can't seem to find the this one...
The Slot.it part are you referring to isn't a slot it part, it might become a Slot Cartel part...if he designs it and starts printing it in 3D ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ah I see yes, the slot.it inline pod is available, has been for some years now :) Part nr : SICH110 O,5 mm offset. I thought you meant the bracket/adaptor that SlotCartel mentioned he'd be able to design & print 3D.

sich110.jpg
 
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