SlotForum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
899 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gave Master 8 the keys to the Pirtek Falcon BA for a test run. He's quite the driver having started on lesser Formulas as a toddler. He was attaining quite good speed and body roll through the fastest corner of this section photographed here. Lap after lap the Falcon seemed loathe to deslot. Just fiddled around/ set up for a photo to look at the guide depth. The cars are capable of such unrealistic speed nowadays, I dont really want the cars to go any faster. I think if they hang on at these speeds,.... the guide blades are deep enough and thats good enough.

So, the question is,.. Model motor racing ,or, the need for "Wing car" speed.

Should Hornby put on the brakes!

 

·
Alan Tadd
Joined
·
4,039 Posts
It all depends on if the car has magnets or not.

Magnet cars, in my opinion, are way too fast anyway to look realistic, so they don't need deeper guides to make them even faster.

In non-mag replacement of the guide is one of the first stages of tuning.

Regards

Alan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,634 Posts
With guides - and especially with the unique new scalextric guides - making the guide shallower is a simple task - get a file, even a nail file, and shorten it! Making it deeper is NOT easy, or even possible, except for those of highly developed scratch building skills.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Well , Im definitely not an accomplished scratch builder
, but I did come up with this. Its a Scaly Caddy , with Slotit running gear, Pattos wheels and foam , 35000 Scaleauto motor. I needed to come up with a easier way than trying to fit a deep guide. Clear plastic cut from a Slotit package then siliconed to the guide , so far its got a couple hundred laps on a large high banked comm. raceway and it works great.

DE38






Personally I think wing car speed belongs on the big comm. tracks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,634 Posts
nice work de38! I will try that soon, it doesn't look too difficult (tried something similar with masking tape and sloidifying it with superglue, which kind of worked but wore out after a week or so).

In that case Scalextric can go on making short guides and I will stop moaning about it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Hi Astro ,it works quite well, its a lot easier than trying to fit a Slotit or TSRF guide, they are great guides , but just require way too much modification to Scaly cars.
I held it together overnight with a pair of small vise grips and has stayed ever since


DE38


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,883 Posts
Squeezy
If Scalextric guides were deep enough, why has Scalextric been making a deeper slotted track for all this time?


Great pic (as usual) though and that's what this is really all about eh!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
899 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hmmm!
Not sure Trop.

The new track system has some positive points which have been addressed during the upgrade from the classic system. For one, the track itself is now harder to bend up at the ends ( steady boys, I said harder not impossible) when people lean on it to retreive a car on a well built layout. Mainly because more points are supported by a flatter more stable design on the base of the Sport track. Maybe the slot just got deeper during this Sport track revamp. Someone from Hornby would know if its just worked out that way or it was done purposely with the future in mind..

But my point was, older non-magnetic Scalextric cars with the old black guides were quick enough and still perform faultlessly in my opinion. Do the new cars fall out any easier?? Maybe not. After all, its like a Rugby ball, you have to wonder about anyone who can't bounce a ball on the ground and kick it over the posts from the half-way line. Its so simple to do. It only takes practice. You should be able to do this with either foot.

We took the magnets out of the V8's and bounce them up and down all over the rumble strips, at a great rate of knots. What a hoot. Stay on fine.

It just seems that all of a sudden some think we should start attaching a "keel!"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,634 Posts
the point still remains some of us DO prefer magnets, some of us DO prefer deeper guides, and some of us DO prefer higher speeds. And for those who haven't found DE38's excellent tip, it is easier to shorten a blade than deepen one.

My preference is for both shalllow and deep blades to be available. Since cars are provided with mags, a deep guide would be more appropriate as the standard sort, and I know many non mag racers who prefer a deeper guide too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I think most of today's cars are fast enough. In fact the voltage of most race sets could be lowered to not only slow the cars down but make them more controllable in the curves. Most enthusiasts quickly discard the set controllers to improve control and running at 12 volts would accomplish the same thing.

As for guide depth, what we do is cut the guide flag down so that only 2mm is still in the slot, it's just enough to make sure the cars run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,883 Posts
RMM suggesting grading drivers by flag depth?
Not a bad idea!


My ideal preference is for a deep blade and no magnets at all, which results in high speeds from no mag cars, without them being completely 'nailed down'. It seems the perfect compromise for minimising deslotting (absolutely no fun at all) while sorting out the skill levels with time lost only by excessive sliding and generally inefficient driving, which is a whole LOT of fun! The best drivers win while the poorer ones don't feel totally peed off by digging cars out of walls etc. It's all very well saying deslotting is all part of the game, but if it ain't fun for half the competitors, it ain't much of a game for them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,378 Posts
Anybody notice that some Fly cars come with a deep guide? I never did until I was at a friends classic track and my 911 Evo wouldn't even sit in the slot. It is a Gunner GTS version, gray with fighter plane livery, and it has a much deeper guide than any of my other Flys?
 

·
Brian Ferguson
Joined
·
3,652 Posts
Personally, I think it's probably easier to fit a TSRF guide than to try to make a standard guide deeper. The TSRF unit also gives you the ability to fit commercial braid, and, as I did on my F1 proxy car, allows for soldering lead wires direct to the braid tabs (where it will fit). And you can easily shape the guide to whatever profile suits you. I'd rather cut out a bit of chassis than try to make a standard blade something that it wasn't to begin with. But that's just me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
800 Posts
I'm all for anything that makes the car faster. They're supposed to be RACE cars after all. If you're looking for scale speeds, buy a train set


I'm still at a loss as to why non magnet racing is supposed to be more realistic. I've only been to a few real road races but the ones I was at had absolutely NO cars with the back end hanging out in the turns. Not once. So how is power sliding more realistic racing? The incredibly fast race cars looked like they were slot cars, sticking to the track and hurtling around turns at incredible speeds that you won't see the family truckster doing.

Anyway, I don't care if it's a magnet car or non magnet car, stock car or fully boogey race car, I just want it to be as fast as it can be. Just make sure I get a set of the rules and a chance to play with my toy cars and I'm happy.
 
G

·
I have just put a Ninco guide in my Scalextric Dellara and hard wired it to the tabs! easy really.
Works on another cars too.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top