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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have just picked up 2 of the old scalextric mini stocks/bangers. they may once have been a mini ha ha or mad hatter under all the filler and paint but i'm not quite sure at the moment! the cars are basically just shells/chassis , which isnt a problem as i have plenty of spares but i have never seen a complete one to know what to do with the guide assembly. i've done a search but there doesnt seem to be much info on them. i wondered wether a kind soul could post up some pictures of the guide assembly and the wiring connection away from it? i would like to try and fab up something to get them going rather than having to try and find , then fork out for new parts. unless of course anyone has these parts gathering dust that they would like to "exchange" for a beer token? cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
fantastic! thanks very much. i'll have a rummage through my box of bits , if i cant cobble something together , i'll be in touch. cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
result!... after a trawl through a recently aquired box o' bits... a full guide assembly has now been gathered together. the 2 fork terminals are broken but i dare say will solder up ok. if i can get one banger up & running i expect i'll feel the need to ressurect its mate!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks to the generosity of a local slotter (i wont name names for risk of embarassment...but thanks again) i now have 2 complete sets of guide assemblies but after having a bit of a fiddle , following the parts diagram , the contacts seem a pretty sloppy fit. i've not put a chassis together properly yet but i doubt that the guide as it is would work properly. it seems to me that i would need to wedge a spacer of some sort betwen the tail end of the the two copper terminals to put a bit of tension into the assembly....unless i am missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (choc-ice @ 18 May 2012, 05:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm at least 30 years out of date with my Scalextric knowledge, but didn't they make "drift" cars which did the same thing more recently? I wonder if their guides would be more robust

i beleive thay did but now ive got the original bits i'd like to get them together "as is". i think with a fresh pair of eyes and some daylight this morning that ive figured out that the tail end of the contacts sit above and below the square moulding on the chassis to tension them up. looks about right to me....unless anyone can tell me otherwise?

 

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I know its been a while, but did you ever find out how this is supposed to be fitted? I'm pretty sure its not meant to be as your last picture, as this means moving the contacts too far back. I have just won a totally mint pair of ministocks from ebay, so good it almost seems a shame to run them - they look like they were made yesterday.

However, I bought them to race, and race them we will, if I can get them running....
 

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^ Looks OK with the exception of the crimped spade connectors. Fender Bender and Stick Shifter are the same. The ridge on the "Y" is on the centreline of the guide post. Yes the ends are splayed to put the "Y's" under tension. Originally the motor wires are simply soldered to the "Y" pieces.

The key is to thread the guide wires through the centre of the guide post from the top before one starts assembly.
 

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Hello petestrike and all I got a stock car/fender bender car recently and only yesterday got around to fixing it to run. Guide assembly very fiddly but I connected the wires from the motor straight into the guide blade assembly taking out the copper contact,washers etc. It runs fine but will not do 360 s. I also used small screws instead of the brass rivets to hold the wires into the guide blade works a treat. Cheers John.
 

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same as me, I use a standard guide after sleaving the original hole. it has the advantage of lowering the chassis. John
 

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got a couple of these to restore and a few spare chassis to have a play with and convert to a conventional guide. sounds easy enough.
 

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Hello gordonzz In my earlier posting I did not use any other guide but took the wires from the motor straight to the contacts in the 360 guide that is fitted originally. The car will not do 360 s but it runs fine as is. Cheers John.
 
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