SlotForum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess someone here might know all about Scalextrics ... it's changed a bit since we got a set in the '70s


So, I bought my little one a Scalextric set from a charidy shop last week. It's rusty, comes with one car and has a transformer but no controllers.

Got some Top Gear branded controllers off the 'bay and last night I plugged it all in.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200682977644?ssP...984.m1439.l2649

Transformer -> power block -> LED lights up on power block.
Controller -> power blocks (3.5 mm jacks like headphones) plugged in.

No action from the car though.

It turns out the PSU - which is Scalextric branded - outputs 16v AC. It came with the set and, as stated, powers up the power block.

The car is obviously 12v DC (tried it with a car battery charger, works fine).

Have I bought the wrong controllers? What does the AC-> DC conversion?

It's an oldish Monaco set btw, it's not a new fangled digital thing.

Thanks.
 

·
Slot Car Racer and Builder
Joined
·
1,721 Posts
I think that the power track where everything plugs in converts the 16v AC to DC

Try putting the car on a 9volt battery and see if it goes - also do you have a multimeter or one of those screwdrivers with a light in it to test the track is getting power?

cheers
DM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Hi Cracker,
welcome to SF.
I am not 100% sure but I think you got the wrong controllers.
you need the controllers for classic track not sports.
They have same size jacks but one has a extra black line.
Ian

Also if you can update your profile saying where you are from
it will make it easier for others to help in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Depends on how much rust is on the rails as well, you might not be getting good contact with the cars braids and the rails, give it a clean if its not to rusty, you can use the green kitchen scouring pads and the track comes up a treat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,570 Posts
Converting AC to DC needs a rectifier.
If you haven't got the right Scalex bit with the rectifier built in, just buy a bridge rectifier (about 44p from Maplin) and wire it in. The two input terminals are usually marked with a "S on its side" symbol (doesn't matter which way round its connected) and the outputs are marked + and - (self explanatory - swap over if the car goes backwards).
You can either put a rectifier between each controller and the track (which works slightly better) or between the transformer and the controllers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK thanks for looking. I'm in the UK btw.

Discussing this with colleagues we decided that what Scalextric probably wouldn't do is to change the electrical configuration of the power and controllers without also changing the connectors... so at some point 'classic' became 'sport' and a rectifier showed up in the controllers instead of the power block? (Or something to that effect).

Will get myself to Maplins asap and get the brillo pads out. Half the fun of this toy is getting it working nicely, right? (I doubt my 4yo would agree on christmas morning though.)
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,892 Posts
Hi Craker and welcome to SlotForum.

Would it be possible for you to post photos of what you have? Scalextric has gone through a few versions of track, powerbases, throttles and power supplies. Photos might help us work out exactly what you have and what you need to do.

To post photos you need to put them on Photobucket or something like that (it's free) and copy the HTML code from the photo's pop-up box. When you post on here simply paste the html code into the box that opens up when you click the little green"insert image" button just above the box you type into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
I still think you have the wrong controller. I do not have a classic powerbase any more
but if I plug a classic type controller into my sports powerbase the rails are fully
powered which is the oposite to your problem.
Sports controllers have braking so when you release the trigger the car stops
very quickly, classic controllers do not have this so hence you have no power
to the rail when you plug in in the new ones.
Maybe someone who has both can confirm this?
If you want a pair I have a couple lying around so PM your address if you do
and I will post them.
Ian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I dismantled the power base last night, all the voltages are as they ought to be. About 18v DC at the controller sockets. The sockets on the base are obviously for two pin jacks, the controllers are three pin. The middle pin doesn't connect to anything in this setup; I suppose a two pin jack in a three pin socket would permanently connect the middle and end pins - hence the always on operation.

What I'll do by way of an experiment is connect two of the pins of my controller up to the base by some judicious soldering and see if that works. The whole lot is pretty tatty so it's not like I'm spoiling anything. And my son gets to play slot cars on Christmas day (if he can wrest the controller off me).

BTW (I bet there are threads and threads on this) what's the best way to clean the rust off the track?
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,892 Posts
Hi Craker,

Good luck with the controllers - trial and error which wires to connect.

As for cleaning track - if the nickel plating has completely gone then light abrasion followed by a protective coating is probably your best option. If the plating is still there try to avoid abrasives as this will remove the thin plating and cause the rails to rust up even quicker.

You could do worse than research Inox MX3 on SlotForum. It has advantages over WD40 in that it lasts way, way longer as it dries out veeeeery slowly. It's expensive but a tiny drop goes a long way. Inox leaves a black residue when raced on but that does no harm. Officially Inox MX3 is non-conductive but ask anybody who uses it and they will say it significantly improves connectivity.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top