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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So it’s time for my second project. My first chassis was 100% scratch designed with only a few knowns - length of motor, bearing sizes etc. Whereas this will mostly be a copy.

I am about to start designing a Scalextric Porsche 997 DPR chassis. The driving force behind it is I broke the rear bearing holder. While these Chassis’ are still widely available (and cheap) I want to do it myself. I have 5 of these cars so having a printable chassis will be good, also this is a DPR chassis so will serve as a template/introduction for converting my old Scalextric Porsche 962c chassis’ when I get around to it.

There are a few parts that are difficult for me to print so will most probably get left out but equally I will add adjustments to the front axle height and in future I’ll add a pod as well so should all balance out.

I’ll design on Tinkercad and print in PLA on my little Flashfordge Finder.

A couple of pictures of the original chassis.

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Well done on designing your own stuff, what you can do is cut parts from other sources and place it in the design of yours. I use flash print slicer and the cut tools to cut a hole in a chassis then drop in a ready made file of digital hatch and jam job done it's a lot quicker than designing it from scratch.
Cheers,
John.
 

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ParrotGod
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Nice project.
Are you going design this chassis to look exactly like the scalex one?
For instance, one thing that you could change is to have bushing also in the front axle like carrera does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice project.
Are you going design this chassis to look exactly like the scalex one?
For instance, one thing that you could change is to have bushing also in the front axle like carrera does.
I have had the first print off earlier. My aim was to design more, print less…. Well based on the first print I am not sure I met my mark :)

The adjustable front axel interferes with the DPR hatch, the rear motor/axle are about 0.5/1mm too far apart, the rear bushings are just too wide etc etc…

But to answer your question yes I am aiming for roughly the same shape.

will crack on tomorrow and see where we met out

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Interesting project. I shall keep an eye on your updates.

We have someone at the club where i race, North London, London Scalextric Club (LSC), who prints 3D chassis.

I've asked him to print one for my Aston Martin DB5 Carrera body. I started "tinkering" with a HRS Slot It chassis but found limited track for wheels, front and rear. I decided not to butcher it and go down that 3D route instead.

Max
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It’s definitely got a place in hobbies like these allowing you to do some quite nice custom stuff.

Interesting project. I shall keep an eye on your updates.

We have someone at the club where i race, North London, London Scalextric Club (LSC), who prints 3D chassis.

I've asked him to print one for my Aston Martin DB5 Carrera body. I started "tinkering" with a HRS Slot It chassis but found limited track for wheels, front and rear. I decided not to butcher it and go down that 3D route instead.

Max
 

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ParrotGod
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I can see that you could move the DPR hatch back to clear up the front axle adjustable holder.
The main reason the DPR hatch is so forward is because these cars have full interiors that would interfere with the chip.
Are you running digital?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I run both digital and analogue in my Scalextric set.

Regarding the distance from the centre of the guide to the LED, what I’ve got here almost 100% matches the current car [one of the few measurements I nailed :)].

This particular car is the high resistant Scalextric range and so does not have the interior.

While for now the aim is just a replacement chassis, looking ahead I’ll look to see if I can improve the performance as one of my other 997’s is a focus for me.

Here is my current hall of fame, the 997A and 997D refer to the same car being run either Analogue or Digital. Currently I am better at Analogue than Digital - but we’re working on it.

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I can see that you could move the DPR hatch back to clear up the front axle adjustable holder.
The main reason the DPR hatch is so forward is because these cars have full interiors that would interfere with the chip.
Are you running digital?
 

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ParrotGod
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So if does not have an interior then it should be even easier to move the chip a bit back.
The important distance here is between the guide post and the LED: as long as it is less than 35mm then you are good.
And looking at the pics of the chassis there you have plenty of room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies and I hope you don’t mind the fairly verbose and in-depth look at a relative novice 3DP a chassis to spec.

So worked up Prototype #2 today. I was hoping/anticipating this one would be a runner but alas the motor pinion is too tight. There are other issues but that’s the one stopping a test drive.

For now I’ve ditched the idea of an adjustable front axle, that will come when the initial prototype is up and running.

Not sure if it’s me, but I notice on my 3DPrinter that when I specify an exact measurement the fit is too tight and I tend to have to add a couple of 10s of mm to get a good fiment. Anyway all axels, guide flags, motors and magnet fit now.

I added a simple single curve to the chassis so it roughly follows the front and rear bodyshell lines. I think it works well.

Now to finish. Aside from the pinion mesh being too tight I need to remove some chassis from the rear to get a better fit, increase the height of the body posts, lower the front axle and slightly offset the whole motor, drive gear solution.

Unfortunately I’ve no time to work on it this weekend but should look to get things wrapped up on Monday. I fully expect another round or two of tweaks but for now I am quite pleased with the progress.

Thanks all

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ParrotGod
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The chassis looks nice. If the pinion/gear mesh is too tight, I might want to set it manually by removing a bit of material from the motor mount so that the motor can move a bit (front/back), set the mesh by hand and the glue the motor in. That is what we do with standard scalex chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks Grunz I did not know that was an alternative will factor that in to the next print.

I’ve been working on the chassis today. Unfortunately my first print the PLA snapped and so it failed to print. This does seem to be a “thing” with my printer, it snaps at the place it exists the reel if I leave it all connected and loaded for a few days.

Anyway that first print, it turns out, was not the finished article. I was thinking that three prints would see me done but alas I am on print #4 and still not there yet. It’s always a surprise to me the detail and thought that goes into what looks like a simple design so hats off to the originals. Anyway back to this print, my biggest challenge is the body posts, these are still not located yet. In addition I’ve lowered the body and this has effected the motor position in the chassis. However I did manage to run what you see and it works in as far as it’s powered and activates the lane changers so :) days…

I hope this is finished tomorrow and then I will borrow the digital hatch design and start the digitisation of the old Porsche 962c’s I’ve got. At the end of the day this particular chassis combo is only a slow pace car so does not need to look good or go fast. That said in future I want to use this on my personal 997 and add a pod and look to do some lap records.

Anyway a couple of pictures and again hats off to you designers out there.

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First off....well done on designing your own chassis. Adjustable front end is easy...a couple upside down U shapes with holes in the top center for set screws and you are done.

A couple suggestions, if I may.....bracing behind the motor between the bushings will help with stiffness, and lateral braces for the motor mounts as well, and add a couple braces on the guide tongue. You will probably want to glue in your motors (which is not a bad idea anyway).

But good to see you designing......that's very cool.
 
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