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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

i run a scalextric digital track in the loft so it's a bit dusty but not too bad. It is just fun racing for me and my son (not sure who enjoys it more
but want to get the most from it without going OTT on costs.)

I've picked up a lot on this forum about maintenance of cars and track which has made a big difference already. (the track looked clean to the eye) but a bit of isoprpyl alcholol on a microfibre cloth had the cars singing again. A bit of wd40 since i dont have inox also made a big difference. I keep the braids clean with either of the two above chemicals and a tooth brush. Done flipper magnet mods on lane changers - amazing difference to pace cars! BUT--

I've been upgrading some of the cars to the scalextric metal hubs which come with what are descibed as silicon tyres.

My issues are:

The old tyres sanded in the car and then oiled seem to be better than the new tyres that come with the hubs (this maybe due to me finding the new tyres hard to sand) is this fair? How should I sand them?

Should I even be sanding silicon tyres?

Should I be oiling silicon tyres?

I have read that silicon tyres ruin your track unless that is all you use but also not sure if the sport plus tyres are actually silicon?

Am I wasting money upgrading the wheels or is the benefit really coming from putting the required larger axle and brass bearings which then require the hubs?

If I should be upgrading scalextric cars at all, what are the best value adjustments, IE performance/handling difference for the £?

At the minute we race with magnets but the line between control and out of control is so fine that my eyesight and reactions cant cope so intend to go magless but need to get my head round that too as I took the magnet out of a car and it was uncontrollable - too slow or flying out on corners. I'm going to try reducing throttle max to something like 30% in ssdc to see how I get on then. Although from what I've seen on the forum, scalextric aren't really meant to be run magless?

So much to learn my head hurts lol.

I look forward to any advice

PS. not had delivery yet but may have just found a supply of inox in UK at LDDiscounts! With delivery it is £10 for 125 ml pump bottle which is maybe more than importing from canada or wherever it comes from but if they deliver ok, it may be of use to other uk forum members. Will post again when it arrives just to update everyone.
 

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Slot Car Racer and Builder
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Should I even be sanding silicon tyres?

don't really think you need to - they are generally true and are very hard to sand

Should I be oiling silicon tyres?

no the oil will only make them slippery.

If you want to upgrade your wheels to metal wheels you are better off looking at wheels from slot.it or NSR - I can also recommend the SCX Pro wheels they seem an inexpensive alternative.

With the slot.it and NSR there are a range of tyres for different track surfaces. I don't run on plastic track so can't recommend which compound is best.

One advantage of the slot.it type wheels is you can fit them to the car without really needing a new axle - a bit of work required as scalextric axles have some knurling on the end. You can buy slot.it axle and wheel kits which have wheels a new gear and axles inc.

I don't change the wheels on a lot of my scalextric cars - I usually upgrade the tyres to urethane ones, that improves the grip on my board track

cheers
David
 

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The Scalextric Sport tyres are useless, you're better off with the ones that come with the car.
Try running without magnets - it'll improve your racing experience.
 

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QUOTE (dangermouse @ 18 Aug 2011, 04:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I don't change the wheels on a lot of my scalextric cars - I usually upgrade the tyres to urethane ones, that improves the grip on my board track
Don't want to hijack the thread but I am at the same stage with tyres & magless. Having seen various posts in the forum cars section I'm looking to try some urethanes but the various sites don't seem to give Scalextric model references, only dimensions which are not easy to measure precisely with wear and curves. Plus Scalextric cars seem have narrower ridges on the hubs and I don't want to have to glue the tyres as none of my current tyres slip, so a cross referencing site (model no. & tyre) would be useful or a helpful supplier who will match them up before purchase - any good value online recommendations?
 

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Slot Car Racer and Builder
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Hi Chris
I make my own urethanes - so I either copy the original tyre or find one that suits.

MJK in Australia make some very good urethane tyres. MJK Link Don't know if you can get them in France or the UK though

There is a slot shop in Australia called Armchair Racer (google it) that has a detailed listing of available tyres.

cheers
DM
 

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QUOTE (dangermouse @ 18 Aug 2011, 10:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I make my own urethanes - so I either copy the original tyre or find one that suits.
Hi DM,
Sounds interesting - is this do-able for a layman & is there a guide somewhere?
Cheers
Chris
 

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Digital &quot;Tea Boy&quot;
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Hi there,

If you want a Ortmann reference list that does include Scalextric here it is:

Ortmann Reference

You can also get tyres from here:

WASP Tyres

We used the WASP tyres in our 6 hour endurance race and they worked a treat! They will work even better magless.

From personal experience, crazy WRX, Scaley cars don't like to be fiddled with too much (as I look over to my "scrap heap" of Scaley cars"....I just pop some Ortmanns or WASP tyres one there, sand them, and the improvement is unbelievable - on Scaley Sport Track, that is.
 

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The Sport alloy hubs are fairly useless on standard scaley axels, the hole is two large for it.

I know they can be tightened on with the grub screws but it is awfully difficult to get them running true like that. It can be done with a vee block and DTI but most dont have access to these.

Teez.
 

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QUOTE (crazy wrx @ 18 Aug 2011, 10:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi All

i run a scalextric digital track in the loft so it's a bit dusty but not too bad. It is just fun racing for me and my son (not sure who enjoys it more
but want to get the most from it without going OTT on costs.)

I've picked up a lot on this forum about maintenance of cars and track which has made a big difference already. (the track looked clean to the eye) but a bit of isoprpyl alcholol on a microfibre cloth had the cars singing again. A bit of wd40 since i dont have inox also made a big difference. I keep the braids clean with either of the two above chemicals and a tooth brush. Done flipper magnet mods on lane changers - amazing difference to pace cars! BUT--

I've been upgrading some of the cars to the scalextric metal hubs which come with what are descibed as silicon tyres.

My issues are:

The old tyres sanded in the car and then oiled seem to be better than the new tyres that come with the hubs (this maybe due to me finding the new tyres hard to sand) is this fair? How should I sand them?

Should I even be sanding silicon tyres?

Should I be oiling silicon tyres?

I have read that silicon tyres ruin your track unless that is all you use but also not sure if the sport plus tyres are actually silicon?

Am I wasting money upgrading the wheels or is the benefit really coming from putting the required larger axle and brass bearings which then require the hubs?

If I should be upgrading scalextric cars at all, what are the best value adjustments, IE performance/handling difference for the £?

At the minute we race with magnets but the line between control and out of control is so fine that my eyesight and reactions cant cope so intend to go magless but need to get my head round that too as I took the magnet out of a car and it was uncontrollable - too slow or flying out on corners. I'm going to try reducing throttle max to something like 30% in ssdc to see how I get on then. Although from what I've seen on the forum, scalextric aren't really meant to be run magless?

So much to learn my head hurts lol.

I look forward to any advice

PS. not had delivery yet but may have just found a supply of inox in UK at LDDiscounts! With delivery it is £10 for 125 ml pump bottle which is maybe more than importing from canada or wherever it comes from but if they deliver ok, it may be of use to other uk forum members. Will post again when it arrives just to update everyone.

I may be able to shed some light on your tire issues, as I also have a SSD set-up and used mostly SS cars with the exact findings you have made. As you mentioned, you're right about the silicone tires. If you're using silicone tires, all your cars must have silicones, and the track has to be squeeky clean; alcohol works great. Since I use sanded rubber tires, I also have upgraded some to urethane tires. By using urethane tires, you can also run cars with rubber tires with no neggative effect. I love the urethane tires, theyn work much better for me than silicones. I use oil on the rubber tires to soften them for grip, and like you have tried oiling the silicones, with little to no effect. I use alcohol on the silicones to keep them clean. One of my most recent findings that works great is a lint remover; the one with tape strips. It also works great for cleaning the track. This even works better than alcohol. Also I've heard sanding silicones can be very messy, and if not done right can ruin your tires. Rich G, or Slotfiend on SCI, has a really good method he uses. It's quite a lot of work just to sand one tire, but he claims he has great results.

Good Luck!

Rob
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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Scaley Sport tune up parts are all for a 3mm axle. Standard Scaley cars are built with a 2.38mm (3/32") axle. So the alloy wheels will not be a suitable replacement unless you also swap out the bearings, axles and gears as well.

Silicon tyres are good if you run on a clean track in a dust free environment. The first time I tried them on a non mag car on a freshly cleaned (scrubbed with methylated spirits) Scaley Sport track the grip was extreme. Too much in fact, with the car inclined to balk and tip rather than track around a corner. However, the second time I tried them with the track wiped only with a microfibre cloth to remove dust, the car behaved like it was on ice.

The moral to the story is: Silicon tyres require a track that is free from dust and scrupulously clean. If you are prepared to keep your track this way, then silis may be the tyre you need.

I use MJKs as mentioned by DangerMouse because they are produced locally to me (well... in the same country at least), are reliable and are easy to obtain. But the absolute best thing about MJKs is the way they list the tyres by a full set of dimensions which makes it easy to find a tyre that will fit your rims.

It is worthwhile to invest in an inexpensive set of vernier calipers (digital ones are readily and cheaply available) to allow easy measurement of wheels so that you can cross reference tyre sizes.

Embs
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all the replys.

I will ditch the silicons as the track does get a bit dusty in the loft. The links to tyre supplies ar very useful. I will get the calipers to make sure I get the right sizes.

I had been upgrading axles, gears etc to use the new sport hubs so it gets a bit expensive that way. Just changing tyres will be a much better option although I will take a look at the slot.it axle kits.

Many thanks.
 

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Hi,
If you enjoy messing about with your cars/tyres, here are a few more options to keep you busy!

- On ebay, mixed in with Scalextric cars, you will find a Canadian (Paul) listing urethane tyres. Go to his Shop & look at the
XPG grade tyres. These are a very soft grade of urethane & the guy usually gives a very good guide against each size, as
to exactly what cars &/or wheels they will fit. I admit, I have never used them on plastic tracks, but on a routed MDF track
with a sprayed polyurethane paint finish, they can be very good. So far the best application for the XPG tyre seems to be
for vintage, low powered, narrow tyred cars,eg, Vanwall. They are easy to true & dont mind a bit of dust. I am about to try
my cars on a large Scalextric track &, if I remember(!), will let you know how they go.
Also, the seller, Paul, is extremely helpful & will help you choose the correct XPG tyre for each of your cars.

- The tyres I have used on a plastic track, are the NSR range, very worth a try. I would be inclined to avoid the super soft
Extreme range & start with the Ultragrip. Dont know what cars you have, but your main problem may be finding NSR tyres
that match your Scalextric wheels. Generally the NSR tyres will suit wheels with wider ridges on the hubs.

- Why not see if there is a slot car club local to you that runs Scalextric events, if you are lucky, you may find a dedicated
Scalextric club. You & your son will get so much advice from " the experts " there, your heads will spin!! One thing is sure,
you will love the experience of racing your cars on a larger track.

Good Racing. Stan.
 

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Hi all,
I use Tack cloths to clean the dust off my Sport track, they seem to work well. They are made to remove dust before spray painting cars and are easily avaliable from most car accessory shops. They are fairly cheap, and are made by UPol.
Cheers, Martin
 

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As has been said, don't mix silicone tyres with rubber tyres on the same track. Once you've thoroughly cleaned your track all you should then need to do is wipe it over before use with a damp cloth. Using rubber tyres, the track will eventually 'rubber up', silicone tyres will wipe that all off and behave terribly. If you true your tyres don't forget to do the same to the rear wheels too, just enough to make sure they are round with no high spots. You could also try a flexible cyano glue to make sure the hub does'nt rotate within the tyre under hard acceleration.

Before going completely magless you could try moving the magnet forward in the chassis (if possible) so that you start to get the hang of running a car with less magnetic downforce.

2 options for tuning on the cheap, try different pinion gears. If you have a short windy track use a gear with less teeth, if you have long straights with flowing bends try a gear with more teeth. I had the best results by lowering the pinion gear by one or two less tooth, made the car feel more controllable. To do this you will need a pinion puller/press, I think the best bang for your buck there would be the Ninco version, though probably best to go for a quality one as you'll be using it a lot.
2nd option is upgrade your controllers, the standard Scaley versions are like on/off switches. Never used digital so not sure if you can change the throttle response curve or something?
At least a controller will get used for every car.

Mike
 

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My two pennith,
keep it it simple retain the Scaly Wheels, check they have no high spots with the tyres off. Fit Slot.It P6 19x10 to your Rally/Road cars or anything with a current tyre width of less than 10mm.
On cars with wider tyres typically GT/LMP car fit NSR Ultragrips 19.5x12 on 16mm rim or 10x12 on 17mm rims. What ever you use glue them on around the rims only, this makes them easier to remove and gives you more grip.
The P6 was designed for smooth plastic tracks like Scaly Sport and do not require any oil, although it will give a marginal improvement when racing without magnets.
The NSR Ultragrip with a little oil massaged in will give you great grip, especially if you go non mag.
brembo
 

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Greg Gaub
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Just to put another viewpoint/option out there... I'm currently setting up 6 high detail Scalextric GT cars for magless racing. They're all sidewinder, so the weight is already biased toward the back. I'm not changing ANY parts, not even tires. I pull the magnet. I glue, true, and oil the STOCK rear tires. I glue, true, and super-glue (for a friction free surface) the front tires, and I do what I can to make sure all four wheels touch at the same time. That's it. They drive GREAT! No, they don't stick like glue as you would get with magnets or NSR tires all oiled and cleaned with lighter fluid (if you haven't done the lighter fluid clean before racing, you really don't know what you're missing... and only NSR tires with NSR tire oil have this special result). I'm familiar with those options and have a couple cars with that set up. But there's more than one way to drive a car, and it doesn't always require putting the grippiest tires on.

In all honesty, the best thing you can do to improve performance, regardless of wheel or tire, is to true the whee/tire unit. I don't like to spend money on new parts for my cars, so I keep the plastic wheels. Sometimes they are a little off, both off center and off-true. Rather than lose too much plastic by trying to true the plastic wheel, I simply ensure that it is smooth all the way around. I sand the wheel (tire off) all around to get rid of any flashing bumps and ribs and such. Then I glue the tire on. If you don't glue it, then it can rotate on the wheel and negate the truing process. When the glue has set, I true the tires. In most cases, part of the tire is sanded more than the rest in order to make it true relative to the axle. The end result, however, is a perfectly round tire with a perfectly flat contact patch. Even without oil or other treatments, the improvement will be substantial. The car will ride smoother, and have much better grip than out of round, non-flat tires provide.

Due to the nature of plastic, press-on wheels such as Scalextric and many other makers use, it's necessary to get an "on axle" truing machine such as the Tire Razor or Area 3 Tyre True. These machines might seem expensive at first, but will more than pay for themselves very quickly by you not replacing all your imperfect plastic wheels with metal ones, which often require replacing the axle, and therefore the crown or spur gear at the same time.
 
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