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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've been trying to understand different RMS software for a while (pc lap counter and since this week RCSO2)
you can influence your brake downgrade or upgrade in the software...however, I don't notice much difference.
Greg, has a very clear explanation about the scp of Slot.it.
However, I get little control on the "brake" with both rms systems. I think the "sweep" is a wonderful invention, but this setting, just like "fixt", is very sensitive. the band width is usually a few millimeters on the BRAKE button. Using the whole spectrum of this button results in an unusable setting for driving, if you even lift the trigger the car is almost stationary. I drive 23000 rpm slot. it motor mx16 torq 170. and a lab power supply 12 volt 5 amp .Powertrim, minspeed and curve max buttons usually work the way I want them to, but adjusting the brake like I'm used to with analog doesn't work well for me .. am I missing something?
ps: I have version 1, version 1.1 and the 2 , all these controllers have the standard firmware .. is updating a must?
 

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RCSO2 will gradually decrease your brake strength from the setting on your controller to almost zero. If you keep driving you will notice that each lap your brake point comes sooner-related to tyre wear %. But this is based on your preferred setting on your controller, if you change tyres (virtual), that is thw setting it will refer to before it starts decreasing again. I personally don't have a lot of problems with finding the correct brake setting, usually I set the knob to about 80% of the capabilty for a standard Slot IT car, but of course depends on track, length of straights and real tyres, and personal preference. I don't think it has to do with a firmware update as I can't remember there were issues with braking.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Henri, can you describe it differently? I'm not sure, but it seems like you're saying that you can't seem to REDUCE brakes, and that they always seem to be VERY STRONG, no matter where you set them in the controller, or in the RMS? Is that the case?

Which chip(s) are you using? Are you using any chip-based power/brake limits?

For example, I found that using the Type C chip, if I enable the power and brake limits, the brake setting on the controller is ignored, and the chip uses only the brake setting that was programmed using the slot.it app on my phone. I've not tested this with an RMS yet, but I expect it will behave similarly. It's not being treated as a limit, but as a hard configuration setting. While this might not be the same situation you are having, I'm wondering if something similar is happening with your set up. For that, we'd need to know more about the chips, firmware, and any settings you may have configured on the chip or RMS.
 

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ParrotGod
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Maybe Greg is onto the something....but I can say that for motors with lots of torque, like the baby raptor/king, our brake settings are very low. I think in my is just off from the 0 setting.
But if I use other motors like the baby sprinter or the slot.it short can, then I definitely need to increase the brake setting.
 

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Greg Gaub
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For sure, some motors have really strong brakes, and some not so much, but I would expect the feel to be pretty much the same between analog controlled by the SCP (and analog cart) and the same car with an oXigen chip installed. If that's the kind of comparison we're talking about, then there's some kind of setting somewhere that is interfering with the brake strength. If it's an RMS making changes, then it should be getting weaker, not stronger, I'd think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
first of all, thanks for the responses.
Torq of 170, should not be the problem since I can tune these engines fine analog.
I've just been trying to investigate a few things, as Greg indicated how or what.
first it is a c chip.
I think the mode is called D132, by that I mean Oxigen power and LC Carrera.
no power from cu to the track, gate 4 activated for the lc, no commands through the track.
When I check the bootloader v3 how the chip is loaded, I see the following:
(screenshot)
fw 3.06 and mode D132. On all 14 cars.
Now we have talked more about which software to use, but this remains unclear to me when I use the slot.it app.
When I want to register this car, I get the message obsolte, then I can install the 315a firmware... fine, but when I use the nordic app after this to install the Oxigen Carrera software, I get errors about dfu charistc ect.
If I use, as bootlooder indicates, firmw 3.06 then I put the firmware for Oxigen/carrera on it with the Nordic app within 10 seconds...and driving and recognition of LC.
After many evenings of trying I am done with the app.
I think I know what you're talking about in terms of brake value. See screenshot, but I assume if you buy a standard chip it is not deactivated on power and brake.
Now to make sure that the braking is not affected by an rms system.i just activate the dongle and drove away...1 millimeter to fix or sweep fine, 2 millimeters and you can no longer lift the trigger...the braking is so tight that it is not a pleasure to drive. I don't hear any complaints from riders with pure oxigen so my suspicions go to D132's software, if this isn't a setting on the controller. Font Technology Electronic device Display device Parallel
Brown Font Material property Screenshot Number
Brown Orange Font Rectangle Material property
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
RCSO2 will gradually decrease your brake strength from the setting on your controller to almost zero. If you keep driving you will notice that each lap your brake point comes sooner-related to tyre wear %. But this is based on your preferred setting on your controller, if you change tyres (virtual), that is thw setting it will refer to before it starts decreasing again. I personally don't have a lot of problems with finding the correct brake setting, usually I set the knob to about 80% of the capabilty for a standard Slot IT car, but of course depends on track, length of straights and real tyres, and personal preference. I don't think it has to do with a firmware update as I can't remember there were issues with braking.
Marcel, de setting is 10% braking at this moment....off the total range in Rcso2 , if we talk about pc lap counter , i did level 50 from the max off 255...same problem, it insnt the RMS sorftware.
since there are no problems in pure oxigen software, i'm thinking of D132 mode.
I don't know anyone who drives this software, so no problems will be mentioned either
 

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ParrotGod
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Henry
Just to make claer, you are running the chip as oXigen but operating on D132. As you said, there is not D132 messages going through the rails to the chips and you have the id 4 on lane change.
The fact that your are operating the chip in D132 mode should not have any influence on the brake - if things are implemented correctly.
You should have control over the brakes as anyone else running pure oXigen. The D132 mode should only change the way the chip sends command to the lane changers (signaling that is car with id4).
If you put the brake knob to 0 do you have more coasting than when it is 1 mm on the left (or right) from the 0 position?
 

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Greg Gaub
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When I want to register this car, I get the message obsolte, then I can install the 315a firmware... fine, but when I use the nordic app after this to install the Oxigen Carrera software, I get errors about dfu charistc ect.
What? No. All you need is to install the new version in the app.

There should be no need to install any other firmware after that. Why are you updating in the Slot.it app, and then installing something else in the Nordic app?
Install latest OXIGEN firmware ( O201c-O2-0315a-210326.zip ) and that's it. You'll probably need to register the chip, though. Is that why you're going back to 3.06, because the chip(s) won't register? Otherwise, there really should be no need to use 3.06. As 3.06 is deprecated, if there's a bug in it, well.... tough luck. Work with your dealer or slot.it to get those defective chips taken care of. But, if you're just going to use that old version, why bother with the mobile app?
To set the D132 mode, you should be connecting the chip to the bootloader on the PC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Greg, i saw your personel post to me...i made the video in the afternoon, and tonight i was testing with frends the new ( for me) RSCO2, so er was no time to post the youtube movie yet in this forum, i also made already make some commants about this youtoube film....from my thougts about that moment...the have changed. now a have read your personel mail.


so my thougts off this afternoon:
Hi Greg, thanks for your response, I spoke today with Marcel Minaard, ( Minardi) from the software team RSCO2 RMS SOFTWARE bootloader, he is also dutch, so this talks a bit easy. On the phone, he also found it a bit strange that it doesn't work (forget the discussion about brake) we are talking about the right way of software and on which you upload it to the c chip. Seen a video makes it more clear, can everyone shoot at my mistakes during these actions.
I'm curious.
at the end of a movie shows a silver merc that works, but then I use old firmware and the nordic app, this does work (the problem of the brake remains...but I think it's one thing the other does not exclude
I am now very curious about your findings.

 

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Greg Gaub
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I saw nothing wrong in that video, other than the bug that we have discovered.

For everyone else, the bug Henri uncovered, which I confirmed, is that, somewhere during the development/improvement of the oXigen firmware, the ID the car emits when changing lanes in D132 mode has changed from ID4 to ID6. Henri uses ID4 on his CU. In the video I could see nothing connected to ports #1 or #2, which means the controller plugged into port #4 was actually ID4, and not 6. Sometime after O2 Firmware v3.10, the ID changed, and so those cars (Henri's orange Alfa) are emitting ID6 to lane change, but the CU is not sending the LC signal for that ID, it's sending the LC signal for ID4. The silver car works, because it has pre 3.10 firmware, and is sending ID4 for lane change.

Slot.it has been advised and will investigate the issue.

For now, I'd suggest using the old firmware on all the Type C chips. I'll have to do some more testing, but I expect the older chips are emitting ID4 (per the O2 manual), so switching to new firmware and using ID6 isn't a good solution. Besides, I expect the firmware to be updated to be consistent and emit ID4 instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Henry
Just to make claer, you are running the chip as oXigen but operating on D132. As you said, there is not D132 messages going through the rails to the chips and you have the id 4 on lane change.
The fact that your are operating the chip in D132 mode should not have any influence on the brake - if things are implemented correctly.
You should have control over the brakes as anyone else running pure oXigen. The D132 mode should only change the way the chip sends command to the lane changers (signaling that is car with id4).
If you put the brake knob to 0 do you have more coasting than when it is 1 mm on the left (or right) from the 0 position?
Yes Grunz, correct. you can work two ways, Fixed and sweep. zero is
is not a brake, and 0.2 milimeter offset of 0 is no longer drivable when lifted from the trigger...0.1 goes just abit, both fiex and sweep
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I saw nothing wrong in that video, other than the bug that we have discovered.

For everyone else, the bug Henri uncovered, which I confirmed, is that, somewhere during the development/improvement of the oXigen firmware, the ID the car emits when changing lanes in D132 mode has changed from ID4 to ID6. Henri uses ID4 on his CU. In the video I could see nothing connected to ports #1 or #2, which means the controller plugged into port #4 was actually ID4, and not 6. Sometime after O2 Firmware v3.10, the ID changed, and so those cars (Henri's orange Alfa) are emitting ID6 to lane change, but the CU is not sending the LC signal for that ID, it's sending the LC signal for ID4. The silver car works, because it has pre 3.10 firmware, and is sending ID4 for lane change.

Slot.it has been advised and will investigate the issue.

For now, I'd suggest using the old firmware on all the Type C chips. I'll have to do some more testing, but I expect the older chips are emitting ID4 (per the O2 manual), so switching to new firmware and using ID6 isn't a good solution. Besides, I expect the firmware to be updated to be consistent and emit ID4 instead.
Thank you Greg, well said,
Thank you for helping to complete the puzzle. I hope this also affects the brake isuee I'm referring to.
 

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ParrotGod
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Henri
about the brake: are you saying that even when you press the throttle the car does not go as it the brake is on? or are you saying that wen you move the brake knob and release the throttle the cars has full brakes?
 

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Henry
Been following this topic as it described a for me unknown problem but....after watching your video...with all due respect....what is the problem?

As you mention yourself, the settings on your controller for Power trim, Min Speed and Curve are pretty aggressive.
Not exactly set for a "smooth" transition from coming off the brakes and onto the throttle.
With the min speed and curve that high you will go from brake to ≠ 40-50% of full power at the first throttle position.
Your power trim set a ≠ position 2 will make the controller even less sensitive (as it will add a delay in the time you go from 0 -100% throttle no matter how fast you pull the trigger)
Last but not least, the top switch on your controller is set to fast.
Basically you've turned your fully adjustable fine tuned SCP into an on off switch.
So a large part of the "undrivebility" of the car is down to all the controller speed settings, the brake has got nothing to do with it.


As for the "brake test" in your video. Testing is about replicating the same event & conditions as close as possible..over and over again.
Full acceleration each time from the same spot, apply the brake at the same spot and then measure how much the different brake settings influence the braking distance.
For your test i.m.o. your back straight seems to be a better test location, straight is a bit longer and no XLC right before the braking point.
Get the car up to a higher speed for more accurate results.
Do the same test but with "softer" Speed settings, Power trim at 1, Min. speed at 15, Curve at 3, top switch in the middle.
Response and feel of the controller should be a lot better and if the braking is still to "On off" for you...try the "Sweep time" brake setting.
This setting will reduce the brake from 100% to your chosen setting over a (short) given time.
Its like you slowly release the pressure on the brake pedal to prevent your wheels from locking up.

Hope this helps
With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Greg Gaub
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Also, make sure the power and brake options are DISABLED when viewing the settings for the chip in that care in the app... if it's using the latest firmware.
 
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