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Greg Gaub
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Re: Tamar and others, I got the impression that Henri has enough experience with various cars, not to mention oXigen chipped cars, that he knows all that about motors and brakes and whatnot. The fact that he's posting this as an issue tells me that this is a new/different behavior from what he has with other chips/firmware.

Henri, can you confirm that the type of car is similar to others that you have raced that do NOT have this problem? Can you specify what is different between the cars that don't have this problems, and the ones that do? Is this issue present on any car with a Type C chip, regardless of the firmware? Or, is it only with specific firmware version(s)? Also, do you have any race management active (Chrono, or RCSO2)?

And to clarify the issue, it seems that brakes are much too strong on anything other than ZERO brakes, as if there is no functional adjustment of the braking power?
 

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Greg I know that Henri has experience, but the way he did the test video...with these settings on the controller...it just isn't conclusive.
Instead of two brake tests on different straights, do a number of takes on the same straight.
If there is no difference in braking over the whole range , then the car would stop, more or less at the same place every time.
If the brake setting do work, the lower the setting the longer the braking distance/roll out. Q.E.D.
You would have to do at least 20 takes to get a conclusive result.

I must say that even with no brakes..the roll out of the car was pretty short.


With kind regards
Tamar

P.s @ Henri, not trying to talk you down my friend, just trying to help you sort out this issue, but the softer controller settings I posted are worth a try.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Fair points, of course. I just want to make sure what he's seeing is a settings/firmware thing, and not a car thing. There are a variety of mechanical reasons the car would be stopping too quickly.

Henri, if you hold the throttle on full, and simply LIFT the car off the track, do the wheels stop immediately, or do they spin down?
 

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ParrotGod
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For what I can see the behaviour the car is not different than what I see here on my track with a NSR porsche 997 and a baby king.
We run these cars at brake setting 2 at most and that is plenty of brakes.
In the video I would have like to see different takes on the brake settings: for instance, at setting 0, then setting 1 and so on. instead of jumping to 5 directly.
However, I understand your point Greg and that you want to exclude that there is any bug in the C chip firmware given that you can set max power and brake on the chip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
what a nice discussion, Thanx, what a great medium this forum. I interpret every comment made here as help, I experience it as very pleasant that people sit behind their screen to help someone else on their way. so that's out of the way.

@Tamar, I get your point, I thought I'd make a quick video because it's not easy to explain with words. I am grateful for your explanation and I will certainly look further into this, having said this Sebas Altena was here last Friday and he is one of the best drivers in the Netherlands . Not in the digital world, but analog. He also complained a lot about the braking range. However, I use all the tips I get here. And certainly from Tamar, since he has a lot of digital experience in the Netherlands.
When I compare it with my braking capabilities on my analog controllers, I have my reservations.
A car should roll and not brake when I "lift".
If I find that my car needs more speed then I will adjust the curve (blue), if I put my start position higher from the trigger (green) and Yellow when because I want more antispin, I find it strange that this the value of my brake will also increase, itself? I determine this myself on the brake setting?
the controller isn't going to come up with this itself???
however, Tamar in 14 days you will take part in a race on my track , and if we haven't decided yet...hopefully you can address what is good or bad about it, since you have more reference than I in the digital world.

@greg, I have no reference with other chips from Oxigen, all my chips are based on old firmware, I thought 3.06 and d132. I've ridden at other Tracs, but then I had too little experience and had my hands full with digital experiences. I am now taking steps further and I notice other things.

:chip-based power/brake limits?...
If the chip is not activated in the app of slot.it since this is not possible with the old firmware, then I have not been able to change enable or disable...since this is a possibility that the app offers, I do not rule out that this something with i think the brake is too aggressive at the moment...
I think Maurizio will have to clarify this.

The test was without RMS software..however with the dongle in the PC. is this a must to ride with a rms or is the dongle in de lap top good enough?

I also drove with RMS (LAPCOUNTER) and here you can downgrade the brake from value 255 to say 50, for example, this didn't have much effect, we tried it on the value 1, this gave no brake at all.
There is no built-in brake function in RMS RCSO2. So this was not an option to test.
"And to clarify the issue, it seems that brakes are much too strong on anything other than ZERO brakes, as if there is no functional adjustment of the braking power?"
@ greg I think so, if you have a brake of 100% working area and your car already stops at 5% then I think it is not functioning properly.

@greg
"if you hold the throttle on full, and simply LIFT the car off the track, do the wheels stop immediately, or do they spin down?"
I'm going to film Greg.

@ Grunz
"In the video I would have like to see different takes on the brake settings: for instance, at setting 0, then setting 1 and so on. instead of jumping to 5 directly."

Working on it Grunz.

Thank you all, a lot of homework..lol.
 

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ParrotGod
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One thing that is not clear to me is if this strange behaviour is the first time that you are encountering with this car/chip combo.
If this is the case, then I would take a chip from another car that has a good brake "performance" and move it in this car and see if anything changes.
This should be a simple test for you Henri to perform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
One thing that is not clear to me is if this strange behaviour is the first time that you are encountering with this car/chip combo.
If this is the case, then I would take a chip from another car that has a good brake "performance" and move it in this car and see if anything changes.
This should be a simple test for you Henri to perform.
I am making movies and testing at te moment Grunz, al the cars drives about the same ( same chip, same software) ...i did some test and i think that al this testing means nothing at the end...because if i drive thoose cars ..its a feeling that i mis something..

it's the space on the trigger range that i'm missing. I would like a car to roll more.. it's hard to describe, in the movies I make on the test bench Tamiya it seems okay again, when I test the brake on the straight too. but when I drive on the track ... it doesn't feel good ... with too many lift on the trigger the car runs almost dead..
In the test that I do you will see that there is a scale built on the scp..it runs from 5 to 40, this is your trigger range...the car will run at 10, is at a good speed at 15 for corners, however, brakes and almost stops again at 10 on this scale, this is at your finger, millimeter work.

I'll have to learn to drive it if it's not the firmware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hello Henri
If its the same for all cars when you drive digital... then maybe you could try recalibrating the SCP2 controller?
Manual attached to this post.

With kind regards
Tamar
woww!
i think if you've seen my videos hopefully tonight "live" otherwise tomorrow you might just be right, i'll be sure to check the regulator calibration, great comment Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Greg's video explaining how the scp works gave me inspiration to test...with the Tamiya speed checker...what does the minspeed button do in relation to the trigger position and what does it do when I brake at different values .It certainly gave me more insight into the min speed button, the brake test doesn't say much about the behavior on the track.

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
after all this testing, I came to the conclusion that this doesn't mean anything at all when I'm driving on the track and how the car behaves on the settings I need to do fast laps. waste of my time? not quite, I'm learning more and more about the scp controller.
When I drive I feel like I have too little space in my trigger, the car holds too much to let it roll nicely when lifting, if this is not in the firmware of the chip, it is definitely worth to take a look at calibrating asTamar points out. I can learn something from it again, otherwise I will have to live with it and drive extremely sharp.

 

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ParrotGod
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To be honest I am not sure what you are trying to show when you talk about the 7 and 15 in your last video.
Are you running that car with magnet?
Looking at the first part when you test different brake settings it looks to me normal.
Sure, the car does not coast that much at 0 brake. But so do my NSR 997s.
I would be really curious to see that car tested in pure analog with no chip at all.
I am saying this because I would like to see how far it can coast when you have an analog controller with 0 brakes.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Henri, don't pay any attention to that scale. It's really not useful for anything other than the calibration process.
It would seem that you just need to spend more time with the controller to better understand what all the settings do. I'm glad that you found my video helpful. Now you just have to put that information into practice.
I agree with Tamar that it's worth going through the calibration process to make sure the trigger is being put to full use, and not registering as 0 throttle before you fully release the trigger.
Of course, it's expected that the brakes would slow the car down when you release the trigger. That's how controllers with brakes work. It shouldn't hit the brakes before you release it fully, though.
Also, your settings are VERY aggressive. I would only use such throttle settings for a magnet car, because as Tamar mentioned, it would turn the trigger into more of an on/off switch than a good throttle control.
Spend some more time with the controller, learning each knob and how it effects the car driving. Don't change more than one thing at a time until you can FEEL what the results are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
thank you all for your comments,
I think also after all these tests and after reading the answers that it is not firmware related and that I have to look for it myself in the settings and finger, lol
 

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ParrotGod
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The best thing is that Tamar is coming there and can assess the situation. To be honest I cannot see anything wrong except a very aggressive min speed and a car with a strong magnetic/torque motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yes shore, @Gruz, happy with that, we will see.
Playing with the setting tonight and it's starting to get acceptable to me. I think a magnet force of 40 on the magnet Marshall and a torque of 170 is not very exceptional.
weight 90 grams, kmp 27, kelvin light 7.5.
are the normal values for our club at DTM.
 
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