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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I have just taken delivery of a slot it scp01-D, I have used it with my pb-pro simple h with no rms and the car creeps along. I calibrated it using the set min thru setting on the pb and it set it to 2 and stopped creeping.
When I use it with pclapcounter the car starts to creep again , I go into driver settings and set the driver minimum throttle setting to 4 and this stops the car creeping.
Not really understanding the reasoning behind this so could anyone tell me if this is ok or will it have an adverse when using the throttle?
also turning the brake knob counter clockwise effects the point at which the car will start to creep, is that expected?

thanks in advance, Dave
 

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Greg Gaub
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First off, I hope you got the original SCP01d, made for previous versions of SSD bases, and NOT the 3v3 one that is made specifically for the C7042 APB.

Assuming that, then the creep, as you found, is a calibration issue along with a brakes issue.

First off, when you calibrate the controller, it's easiest to use the auto-calibrate feature in the PB-Pro software. Do this by going to the Set CTRL menu and pressing menu so that the screen says "Control?" Don't enter any controller settings, but press, release, then hold the trigger at full until you hear the PB beep, then release and it's done.

It's important that when you do this, however, that the brakes on the SCP1d are set to full. In the case of the SSD functionality, that means fully CLOCKWISE. The line on the knob will be pointing at roughly 5 o'clock. It does not move past that point.

Also, the brakes function for the SCP requires that the controller be set to have Dynamic brakes ON. This is because the SCP pulses the brakes on/off to provide variable levels of braking. It does so with dynamic brakes.

I don't use PCLapCounter, so I don't know how it works with regards to controller calibration and settings. I do know that SSDC overwrites controller calibration when using any kind of throttle curves, which are required for fuel load simulation. This is one of my few complaints about SSDC, because my stock controllers are not equal enough to go without calibration.

So, to sum up, turn the brake knob all the way UP (fully clockwise), calibrate the controller as described above, then see if there is still creep. If you turn the brakes down (counter/anti-clockwise), the SCP will begin pulsing between low throttle and zero, with 5 total levels including full and no brakes. At the no brake setting, with some cars, it can actually cause the car to move forward, especially with cars that have particularly twitchy motors, like a slot.it, and especially with no mag. Also, if dynamic brakes are set to OFF in the base for that controller input, it will probably start the car trundling around the track.

Unfortunately, you can't calibrate with brakes turned off on the SCP, because it won't work right, and if it did, you'd probably just end up with nothing but full brakes at any setting.

When I use my SCP for digital, the brakes are almost always set to 100% on the controller. For magless racing, I want as much brakes as I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Mr F, I did do the auto calibrate but not sure what position the brake knob was in when I did it, I`ll try again tomorrow.
The other thing is I could tell no difference to the dynamic braking wether the knob was fully clockwise (5 o`clock ) or fully counter clocwise (7 o`clock )
or is that difference very very subtle?

thanks again, Dave
 

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Greg Gaub
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If you calibrated with brakes turned down, causing the SCP to pulse between 0 and 1 (let's say), then calibrating would cause the base to assume the controller had a non-zero bottom level, and assign that as the new 0. That's why you need to have brakes at full (5 o'clock) when calibrating. After that, turning the brakes down SHOULD result in a perceptible sound from the motor as the controller pulses between 0 and 1.

I forgot to ask earlier, but is the controller otherwise functioning OK? I mean, the car goes faster and slower depending on trigger position and such, right? If the controller is doing any other odd things, it's possible that the DIP switches are not set properly, as many units came out of the factory set for nothing, rather than the default SSD that the manual indicates it's pre-set to.
 

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Mr F , thanks again for your time.
To answer your last question first, yes the dip switches are in the correct position.
Ok I have recalibrated the controller with brake knob in the fully clockwise position ( 5 o`clock ) tested it with just pb- prop and there is definatley adjustment on the brakes now , very different from yesterday, the car does creep forward when the brake knob is set fully counter clockwise ( 7 o`clock ) but I think you said this is to be expected!
Tested it with pclapcounter and no adjustment now available, tried it with ssdc and the same occurs no adjustment on the brake and the car creeps even with the brake knob fully cockwise. Tested again with just pb and cannot get the brake to function properly again.
I think added to the fact the brake knob seems to have an issue at about the 10 oclock position , it seems to meet with a physical resistance instead of turning smoothly I reckon its time to consider a return to sender.
Its a pity because its a beautiful piece of kit

Dave
 

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Greg Gaub
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It sounds as if PCLC does the same as SSDC in that it overwrites controller calibration with throttle curves. Essentially, calibrating a controller IS setting a new throttle curve, one where the lowest point on the controller output is zero, and the highest point is 100%. Unfortunately, in both cases, once that calibration is overwritten, the calibration is gone, and even if you shut down SSDC or PCLC, it will still be gone, and you'll need to recalibrate the controller. This is how it works for ANY controller, SCP or otherwise.

However, I don't believe that the car should be creeping with brakes on full, and when using SSDC or PCLC. I'll have to double-check mine when I get the chance tomorrow night, just to be sure, but the SCP should already be pretty accurate, and not need calibrating, except when the base has been calibrated for another controller that is NOT accurate.

Take a look at the throttle curves in use for SSDC. If you've played with them for use with your stock controllers, the current curves might not be suitable for the SCP. Try a standard linear curve where it's a straight line from 0 to 63, if that's not already what's in use. Remember, with SSDC, the only way to not use throttle curves is to choose null for the curve option. You'd then have to exit SSDC, recalibrate the controller to the base, and re-launch SSDC. You can use Power based fuel load, but I found that to be too drastic of a difference when the power changes during a race.
 

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Thanks Mr.F, that's an excellent explanation, clearly you know more on this subject than most. Very useful as I could not have helped Dave any better.

Regards
Maurizio
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok here`s where i`m at. Now using a different scp01-D.

USING JUST PB-PRO SH

First I cailbrate it as descibed with brake knob fully turned clockwise.
When using it like this with brake knob fully clockwise everything is fine, with brake knob fully counter clockwise the car creeps along the track.

USING PCLAPCOUNTER

Brake Knob fully clockwise causes the car to creep along. To stop this I have to go to driver settings and set the minimum throttle setting from 0 to 2. Now the car does not creep or pulse at the fully clockwise position but when turned counter clockwise to about 2 o`clock it starts to creep.
When driving the car my ideal position for the brake knob position would be about 11o`clock but with it set there the car will not refuel as it needs zero throttle to refuel even if it did refuel it would drive out the pits on its own before having time to fill up.
The only work around is to adjust the brake knob on the fly i.e turn fully clockwise on pit entry and readjust on exit, I could do that but is this how its mean`t to be used?

The final thing I have noticed is the manual descirbes using the latched lane change button as follows

"the 'UP' arrow button is a 'Latched Lane Change' command: what it means is that once
pressed, for 2 seconds it keeps the Lane Change command active, like if the driver was
keeping the Lane Change command pressed himself. The advantage of this is that, once
pressed, the driver can concentrate on driving, and the SCP-1 will take car of lane changing,
for the next two seconds. A further pressing of the 'UP' arrow when the strategy is active
will switch it off."

The only way I cancel the latched lane change when active is to press the down button a further press of the up button does nothing!

Is this an operting change that has not been updated in the manual? or is it a cause for concern with this particular controller?

I hasten to add The scp01-D despite the slight issue with the brake knob when using rms is a fantastic piece of kit, it is not cheap but is well worth the wonga.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Your controller is working correctly.

I think the refueling issue is something that was not foreseen by Slot.it when they wanted to provide the variable brakes for SSD. You'll note that other systems have no variable brakes (controllable by the SCP), if they even have brakes at all. I don't personally like the effect of the pulsing brakes, and so I don't use them, keeping the brake knob at full brakes all the time. Since I race mostly magless, I want as much as possible anyway. Though hindsight is 20/20, I can't think of another way to provide variable braking on a stock SSD system without interfering with other system features. At least we CAN adjust the brakes on the fly, so that they can be full when pitting, and reduced when racing.

I just tested the latched lane change on mine, and it works like yours, and not like the manual. My guess is that this changed and the manual was not updated, or that "feature" never got added. I like the latched lane change a lot, because it allows me to take a lane changer while focusing on my trigger finger through the turn better. I've never even thought to try and cancel it prior to the 2 second timeout.

Car creep is annoying, but it will vary a lot with each car. Many motors need more than that low value to move, especially magnet cars. Some motors/cars are so smooth that they'll actually drive away. Fortunately, there are only 5 levels of brake to worry about, so getting the level you want right after race start should be easy enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for your help getting my head around this complex piece of kit Mr F.
Had a day experimenting with different settings for different car types, the variations are endless. It really gives you the edge when your opponent is using the standard scaley controller..............

all the best, Dave
 
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