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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got mine delivered from GetSlotted.

First off, it looks great in the box, but I'm in this to use them so out it comes.

This car is a 4 Wheel Drive model and the dirt effect is pretty convincing.

The drive however... well, it's a dog.

I'm not sure if I'm spoilt, but the Carrera Bentley drives really smooth, is very responsive, is quick and holds the track well until it's pushed.

The Focus, is slow, not especially responsive (in fact it seems almost breathless) and comes off the track pretty easily.

Now as we all know I'm new to this, I mused that maybe a bit of lubricant here and there might help, but it would have to transform the car before it could touch the Bentley.

To top it all the lights only come on when the controller is fully depressed! Which is never


Are these characteristic of SCX cars I wonder?
 

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Gary Skipp
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It could be the ohms your controller is running. I don't really know what the Carrera controller ohmages are, but if they are 60 then they may be a bit high for the SCX car, I know an SCX F1 car won't run well with scaley sport controllers (60 ohm)

Check the connections from the braids to the motor, maybe slide the crown gear away from the spur a little to allow a smoother rotation. I would bother with lubricant, It did wonders for my spirit lola.

Check the wheels aren't rubbing the arches, and that the guide isn't causing de-slots.

Hope this will get it running well, it'd be a shame if you were stuck with a duffer.
 

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Just a quick question, mainly because I haven't watched the latest round of the Focus-Benltly challenge
. Why would you want to race these two against each other? I'm not a "everything has to be 1/32 scale and you can't race old cars with magnets" kinda person, but they are two different types of car. One is low, long and wide, the other is high, short and narrow. The Focus will never compete with it.
You should try taking the magnets out, I have found they run best like this, and you might be pleased with the results. I'm not really sure why (I know exactly why...) SCX bothered to put magnets in these cars, as the motors are too slow to pull that strength magnet. They rule without magnets, exactly like real rally cars
.

Try it! If all else fails, buy a Scalextric car, lol, not really...

Lotus
 

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QUOTE LMP04 : It could be the ohms your controller is running.

Thanks I'll have a look at that, I wonder if there is some sort of compatibility info anywhere..?

QUOTE LMP04 : Check the connections from the braids to the motor, maybe slide the crown gear away from the spur a little to allow a smoother rotation.

Um, I get the first bit, but crown gear? Spur?

QUOTE LMP04 : I would bother with lubricant, It did wonders for my spirit lola.

I'll definitely give it a whirl then


QUOTE LMP04 : Check the wheels aren't rubbing the arches, and that the guide isn't causing de-slots.

I've done the former, but not the latter, how would I check this?

QUOTE LMP04 : Hope this will get it running well, it'd be a shame if you were stuck with a duffer.

Not to worry, either I'll Ebay it or I'll treat it as a project. It is a lesson to me to read reviews of cars first though...

QUOTE lotus03 : Why would you want to race these two against each other?

Sorry, it wasn't so much a racing comparison I meant, more as an indicator of just how much inferior the Focus is if you see what I mean...

QUOTE lotus03 : You should try taking the magnets out

I did, but couldn't keep it on the track and it still didn't perform much btter. Although my comedy driving skills might have something to do with that


Out of interest, where cars have lights is it normal they only come on full throttle or are they usually a bit better than that?
 

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Gary Skipp
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The spur is the small gear on the end of the motor spindle. At least, I think thats what its called (I'm only 16!)

Guide wise, I think (?) the carrera slot is pretty deep, so the guide shouldn't need trimming. If anything, it could be too shallow, causing the car to de-slot when sliding.

About finding out what ohms the controllers are, it should be in the gumf you get int he instructions. If not, I don't really know as I don't ahve any carrera stuff.
 

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I'm only 18, and I run RC too! lol

Can't understand why the Focus doesn't run well. I had one and it was me second best rally car (behind my SCX Xsara). Try disconnecting the lights (open it up and bend the metal contacts out of the way. Loosen it off a bit and try changing the back tyres to rubber ones instead of the plastic ones that come on it
.

Should be great then. Report back soldier.

Lotus
 

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SCX and light.
I have had a similar problem and it seems to me as if the lights on several SCX cars are not that 'bright' as for example Scalextric and they seem to need much more 'power'.

Carrera controller.
I have three different carrera controllers.

a) black mechanical ones (cheapest): - I did not like them since they seem to be much less responsive than the other controllers from carrera - also they are slightly larger physically so they do not fit as nicely in my hands at least.
red electronic ones ('evolution'): - these are electronic and slightly less thick in size compared to the black ones. They are noticably more responsive and I personally like them quite a lot.
c) red electronic ones ('exclusive'): - these seem to be the same as (
above and I think that the only difference is the sticker on them.

I have all of the above carrera controllers and I do definitively prefer the electronic (red) ones. They are currently only included in the 'Mille miglia 2' evolution set otherwise you will have to get one of the 1/24 scale (exclusive) set or buy them separately.

Alternatively if you do like your black mechanical controller and do not mind the shape of it - I think it should be relatively easy for someone (a friend?) who knows the basics in electronics to rebuild it with a slightly lower ohmage. Or you could get yourself one of the existing third party controllers - but those I have seen have a 'pistol' grip (which is not my personal favorite).


//peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The tyres on this are already rubber, maybe a newish change?

You think maybe the lights are drawing current away from the motor? I might as well disconnect them, sod all use they are coming on at full throttle


The controller I'm using is black, it came with the set (Le Mans), no direct info in the manual about the impedance on these.

Anyone know what a good all-pupose impedance rating should be?

The lights are quite bright at full throttle, if I hold the car off the track and spin it flat out the light come on a treat, but practically with trying to stay on the track there is no way the lights will get enough power...
 

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Was joking about the tyres... ('cos they have no grip...)

Lights, whatever rating, will always be taking power away from the motor, so it is always best to disconnect them if you don't particularly love them.

I actually love the black controllers. Better than those red ones (possibly a dispute of the 'red-is-best' theory?)...

Lotus
 

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Ive had problems with my last two scx rally cars,running really bad at first,smoking,slow etc... then all of a suddden they would take off and run fine.

I believe it was a contact problem ,because I hotglued the motor in place, and it seems to run good right off the bat now. I also took some 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the the metal pieces inside the motor in case they were binding (is that the com?)

Still have trouble with the lights though . They come & go when they want to .

Did Lucas make scx's electrical system ?
 
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My SCX Lancer didn't want to run too well when i first had it, it was very un-competetive, anyway i took it apart, disconnected the lights, lubed up the gears and adjusted the chassis screws, after a bit of running in, it now runs lovely at the club using a 45 ohm parma controller.

You may find the focus gets better with a bit of use and trying some of the above.
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Too many possible variables to give a one off answer but try the tips given above ONE AT A TIME! and then test to see if there is an improvement. Probably a mix of many of them will help.
The lights will NOT be drawing current away from the motor and your controller /transformer set up is almost certainly to blame for the lights only coming on at high throttle.

Standard box set controllers are rarely up to the task they are asked to perform.

However, changing these can cost abit and if you are only running a small homeset with one or two cars then it probably isn't worth the change yet. Wait until you are as hooked as the rest of use and you have many metres of track and more cars than you can shake a cat at


You mention Bentley, does this mean you are on Carrera track maybe?

One tip missed above is to be aware that Carrera track is wider than the others and hence the gap between the metal runners either side of the slot is wider. Try twisting the braids on the car out and down a little.

Good luck! and do not be afraid to keep coming back with more questions, one of us here WILL sort you out sooner or later
 

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Sorry Swiss, but the lamp must be taking something out of the equation, surely.

I swear it ain't my imagination, old style (i.e. proper bulb type lights) lighted SCX cars will run a tad faster without the illumination.

I don't recall who suggested it but running a loose body will help the handling no end - always assuming you ain't got wobbly wheels, which nothing short of replacement will fix.

Persevere with the SCX WRC cars - they are the Kings of 1:32 WRC and no mistake.
 

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Make sure everything is running freely by turning the wheels by hand. If it feels tight the motor may be working too hard in trying to move the car and taking excessive current in the process. That could make the lights behave this way, especially on a home set unstabilized power supply.
 

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Thanks for all the replies everyone


It is true that it got a bit better after a while, there was some smoke/burning smell from the car so perhaps there is a running in issue here.

I'll definitely try to lubricate it, I'm off to Southampton Mocedl Centre next week hopefully so I'll buy some lubricant there.

I did loosen the chassis a bit, basically because I read that it helps handling on here, although there wasn't a dramatic difference in this case.

I did forget to mention I'm on Carrera track, I had 4 sets of the Lemans set all rigged togther, using two power supplies, one for each lane as I thought that would help.

I assumed power was not an issue because the Bentley and Audi ran so smoothly, whereas the Focus was a bit of a nightmare.

So, it sounds like:

A) Some lubricant

B ) Consider a controller (which are pretty expensive I notice!) - No lights until I get one though I imagine


Once again, thanks to all, I'm still learning and pretty dull-witted so I appreciate your perseverance
 

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If the motor is an RX-81 type - same as the Impreza, then I have heard (Pendleslot et al) that it may take quite a bit of running in to get the best from it. Lubrication is a good idea - bearings, motor shaft (tiny amount, both bearing ends of shaft) and pinion/crownwheel.

Regarding the lights - well I'm not sure what you can do. Possibly try the car with another controller (Club track?) and see how the lights react? It has to be said that Overdrive make some cracking light sets - the capacitor ensures that once the lights are on, they stay on no matter what your throttle setting (thanks BritSlotNut @ Porsche Challenge @ Wolverhampton!). I appreciate this doesn't help your current (sorry!!) situation and involves more expense, but it may be something to bear in mind if, as you say it may be a project car.


Mark.
 

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I've also got a few of the Carrera Le mans sets, one of them did come with the red controllers though.
I can't remember but someone/somewhere told me that the Carrera controllers have 33ohm resistors and they do a pretty go job, well, until they get a bit hot (when cold as well). The power delivery is relatively progressive, definitely better than the Scaley 60ohm joblies.

About the brightness of the lights associating with different controllers - I have a Pug 206 and a Seat Cordoba (both SCX) that I run on my Carrera track. Now I've tried them with a standard Carrera controller, a Parma 35ohm Economy and also a Professor Motor Silver series controller. You could just barely see the lights even on full throttle and all three controllers had the same result, so I don't think the problem (if it's a problem) is the controllers. Maybe they are just older, crappier bulbs? Does anyone think it could be the voltage? The Carrera transformer runs 14.8 volt, maybe??........

Regarding to controllers - If you can't get hold of your desire one that fits the Carrera power unit, just get one with any type of plug, eg. Scaley, Ninco, 2 amp 3-pin plug, etc. Then get 2 pairs of battery connectors for RC cars from a model shop. Chop the wires on the new controller and one of the standard Carrera controllers. Solder the connectors accordingly, so that one end is male and the other end is female. Make sure red goes to red, black to black and the brake wire would be the only one left anyway. In the case of the Carrera standard controller, the wire is blue. Here are some photos of the finished job:



Here is the connection for a 3-pin plug for club use:


Here's the connection for Carrera power unit:


A pair of connectors (one male, one female) costs £1. So you'll need a minimum of 2 pairs. I'd suggest it would be best to get a controller that's already connected to a 3-pin plug, so that you could use the same controller with a 3-pin plug at your club, race, etc. And use the Carrera plug for home.

Please let me know if I am making this sound too complicated? I'll try to explain better. Cheers for now!
 
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